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Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

wsfrazier

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Finally got around to getting the 103 TB for my kit, now I need an intake.

Anyone use the Jn2ning PMAS intake found here?
https://juggernautpower.com/collect...rock-103mm-throttle-body-upgrade-kit-w-intake

It's about the same price as the Edelbrock one, so not sure if the larger PMAS one would be any better than the enclosed in EB box'd intake.

I was hoping the Jn2ning intake would maybe give the car a little bit of whine since its an open short ram, but I doubt anything will make this blower whine at this point.
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illtal

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Finally got around to getting the 103 TB for my kit, now I need an intake.

Anyone use the Jn2ning PMAS intake found here?
https://juggernautpower.com/collect...rock-103mm-throttle-body-upgrade-kit-w-intake

It's about the same price as the Edelbrock one, so not sure if the larger PMAS one would be any better than the enclosed in EB box'd intake.

I was hoping the Jn2ning intake would maybe give the car a little bit of whine since its an open short ram, but I doubt anything will make this blower whine at this point.
Thought you removed your kit a few pages back. Anyway, You will need the tb adapter that's only in the airbox kit. I had to buy it. When I found out it wasn't the same.
 

Memz

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Thanks Burkey I’ve ordered a Century battery replacement.


Another query... Does anyone know if this swivel lever is meant to rotate/open and close freely with out any resistance or getting stuck? I know it controls a butterfly inside the blower, is the rod that runs into the blower (per my arrow) meant to have 0 side to side movement from the front of the blower/lever?
Mine is a little loose and when I rotate the lever carefully by hand (to open and close it) it has some sort of rough resistance like it gets stuck and then frees up.
I know they say not to open it by hand but I unbolted the bypass valve before moving the lever by hand so me opening the lever by rotating it didn’t actually move inside the bypass diaphragm.
14E4000C-C76D-448C-905C-65C87BFD9AC1.jpeg
 

Burkey

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Thanks Burkey I’ve ordered a Century battery replacement.


Another query... Does anyone know if this swivel lever is meant to rotate/open and close freely with out any resistance or getting stuck? I know it controls a butterfly inside the blower, is the rod that runs into the blower (per my arrow) meant to have 0 side to side movement from the front of the blower/lever?
Mine is a little loose and when I rotate the lever carefully by hand (to open and close it) it has some sort of rough resistance like it gets stuck and then frees up.
I know they say not to open it by hand but I unbolted the bypass valve before moving the lever by hand so me opening the lever by rotating it didn’t actually move inside the bypass diaphragm.
14E4000C-C76D-448C-905C-65C87BFD9AC1.jpeg
Yes, it should operate quite freely.
IIRC a few people were having issues with clearance.
Nothing is rubbing that you can see?
 

Memz

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Yes, it should operate quite freely.
IIRC a few people were having issues with clearance.
Nothing is rubbing that you can see?
I unbolted the bypass valve mount and was rotating the lever by hand and visually from the front it wasn’t rubbing on anything but internally it felt like it’s getting caught on something like the bush/bearing was seized (not that bad but I felt it rub something as I was rotating the internal lever rod) It also has some free play movement (side to side movement)
 

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illtal

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Thanks Burkey I’ve ordered a Century battery replacement.


Another query... Does anyone know if this swivel lever is meant to rotate/open and close freely with out any resistance or getting stuck? I know it controls a butterfly inside the blower, is the rod that runs into the blower (per my arrow) meant to have 0 side to side movement from the front of the blower/lever?
Mine is a little loose and when I rotate the lever carefully by hand (to open and close it) it has some sort of rough resistance like it gets stuck and then frees up.
I know they say not to open it by hand but I unbolted the bypass valve before moving the lever by hand so me opening the lever by rotating it didn’t actually move inside the bypass diaphragm.
14E4000C-C76D-448C-905C-65C87BFD9AC1.jpeg
It's like a wastegate, except under vacuum it keeps the valve open, under boost, it shuts the valve. there should be no play/or roughness on the arm on it's direction of travel. I'm not sure what kind of problem you have going on with it. but the reason the nitrous jet is in there is because it's very abrupt to close when opening the throttle without the jet installed. It makes the car easier to drive with it. I would assume that it should be easy to open and close it. So I would have that looked at if you're going to have any work done to the unit.
 

Memz

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It's like a wastegate, except under vacuum it keeps the valve open, under boost, it shuts the valve. there should be no play/or roughness on the arm on it's direction of travel. I'm not sure what kind of problem you have going on with it. but the reason the nitrous jet is in there is because it's very abrupt to close when opening the throttle without the jet installed. It makes the car easier to drive with it. I would assume that it should be easy to open and close it. So I would have that looked at if you're going to have any work done to the unit.
Unfortunately it’s already on the car and tuned. I just used an old photo before it was installed for this post.
As part of my diagnosing of my rev hang I looked at on weekend (video I shared in previous page) I looked at that lever to see if it was getting stuck. Car drives fine but only has rpm hang when in park and I rev it (assumed it was bypass lever getting stuck) thought I’d ask the question
Do Edelbrock sell a replacement bypass valve and lever/rod assembly that I can replace if it’s infact the rough lever causing my rev hang?
 

illtal

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Unfortunately it’s already on the car and tuned. I just used an old photo before it was installed for this post.
As part of my diagnosing of my rev hang I looked at on weekend (video I shared in previous page) I looked at that lever to see if it was getting stuck. Car drives fine but only has rpm hang when in park and I rev it (assumed it was bypass lever getting stuck) thought I’d ask the question
Do Edelbrock sell a replacement bypass valve and lever/rod assembly that I can replace if it’s infact the rough lever causing my rev hang?
It could be, because when you give it throttle (in gear or not) you are providing more air in the case of the supercharger than the engine can supply itself alone. However without a load you should stay out of boost unless you really give a lot of pedal. In this case the valve should stay open, but if it does start to close (depending on how stuck it is) you could conceivably, cause a false (hanging) rev to happen, however I believe in this case you should get a code because of the Throttle body position being closed but the revs are up, which doesn't jive in the PCM logic.

Not sure why you aren't getting a code, but I would investigate the bypass and rule that out if you can. I do not know if you can get EB to send you a single part, I haven't tried too hard to contact them lately.
 

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I know the arm on mine “rubs” with housing ever so slightly. Clearance is very little.
 

wsfrazier

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Thought you removed your kit a few pages back. Anyway, You will need the tb adapter that's only in the airbox kit. I had to buy it. When I found out it wasn't the same.
I did, I removed it from my 2019 to re-install it on my new 2020.

Looks like the Jn2ning one also includes the adapter. I will just ask Lund and see what he'd rather tune.
 
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illtal

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I did, I removed it from my 2019 to re-install it on my new 2020.

Looks like the Jn2ning one also includes the adapter. I will just ask Lund and see what he'd rather tune.
Cool, nice upgrade. I finished paying off mine so I didn't trade it in.... Maybe I should see what they would give me lol
 

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I just wanted out of the manual MT82 and was the perfect market to do so, I didn't lose money.
Since you had both what's your 10 speed impressions? I absolutely love the MT82, in relative comparisons to my other Manuals I've owned. I will probably get a V8 SUV to satisfy my auto needs in life though.
 

wsfrazier

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I've had a 2016 with a 6r80 before as well, with a circle d high stall converter. So I was familiar with the autos and knew what I was getting into.

But the 10 speed is even better than I expected. I bought the manual first because I told myself the car would just be a street car, but of course I started to get competitive with drag racing.

I love the auto, it's just always in the perfect RPM window and shifts are precise and fast. I didn't have problems with my MT82 per say, it never broke or cost me repairs. But at the track it had the usual lockout and shifting issues at high rpm.
 

illtal

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Anyone interested in any other parts? I want to work on some new stuff.
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