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Jeff T.

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Make sure you don't have a air pocket in the intercooler system, the pump will shut off if you do, it's not like other pumps that run even when there is no fluid, this one is smart enough to know you're dry and will shut off. I had it happen to me when I first did the blower, I fill it and then it would instantly suck the reservoir dry and turn itself off.

Easiest way to check is to take the cap off and turn the engine on, the reservoir should stay full with water moving through it the whole time. If it is then maybe the sensor is reading is reading it wrong.


Ok, so when I turn the car to accessories should the intercooler pump start flowing ? If so mine does not infect mine does not start flowing till after the car reaches normal running temperature.
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Ok, so when I turn the car to accessories should the intercooler pump start flowing ? If so mine does not infect mine does not start flowing till after the car reaches normal running temperature.
Thats wrong. It should run with accessory power and also after the car shuts off for a few seconds. Where did you wire the power to?
 

Jeff T.

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Thats wrong. It should run with accessory power and also after the car shuts off for a few seconds. Where did you wire the power to?

Its wired per the edelbrock instructions. I have been running fine the past 3 months till a couple weeks ago. I'm currently at work so I dont have my instruction book...but I have the power wire to the hot wire in the fuse box, ground strap and the plug to the evap..
 
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Its wired per the edelbrock instructions. I have been running fine the past 3 months till a couple weeks ago. I'm currently at work so I dont have my instruction book...but I have the power wire to the hot wire in the fuse box, ground strap and the plug to the evap..
I'd try manipulating/jiggling the connectors at the evap and pump. It should be on pretty much any time the "key" is on. If nothing has changed and the sensor is good, it's possible the electronics in the pump are failing.
 

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I'd try manipulating/jiggling the connectors at the evap and pump. It should be on pretty much any time the "key" is on. If nothing has changed and the sensor is good, it's possible the electronics in the pump are failing.

Yeah, should be easy enough to figure out if the pump is getting 12v.

Thanks for the help and input Gents
 

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Its wired per the edelbrock instructions. I have been running fine the past 3 months till a couple weeks ago. I'm currently at work so I dont have my instruction book...but I have the power wire to the hot wire in the fuse box, ground strap and the plug to the evap..
I wasn't saying you literally did it wrong, sorry. I just meant its behavior was wrong. I had initially wired mine to the closest 12V terminal to the pump out of the 3 available and the pump would run waaaaay after the car shut off, like 10+ minutes. I moved it over to what I think is the starter and it works good now.
 

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Ok, so when I turn the car to accessories should the intercooler pump start flowing ? If so mine does not infect mine does not start flowing till after the car reaches normal running temperature.
Here is my intercooler pumps behaviors:

- Open driver door = pump turns on for a minute or two, will turn off if I do not start engine
- Turn on ACC or engine = pumps will run and stay on as long as there is fluid in the system, if the reservoir is empty, pumps shuts off after 1-2 seconds of running dry
- Turn engine off = pump stays running for a minute or so after engine has been shut off

If your pump is not turning on when you turn engine on, then you need to double check your connection, mine is plugged into the EVAP solenoid. That harness goes to a relay that connects to a stud on the fuse box and a ground behind the bumper. Your pump should not be waiting for operating temp to turn on, it must be running 100% of the time the engine is running, no and if or buts about it. If it's not then that is the reason your IATs get so high, the coolant in the intercooler brick is sitting still soaking in all that heat.
 

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Here is my intercooler pumps behaviors:

- Open driver door = pump turns on for a minute or two, will turn off if I do not start engine
- Turn on ACC or engine = pumps will run and stay on as long as there is fluid in the system, if the reservoir is empty, pumps shuts off after 1-2 seconds of running dry
- Turn engine off = pump stays running for a minute or so after engine has been shut off

If your pump is not turning on when you turn engine on, then you need to double check your connection, mine is plugged into the EVAP solenoid. That harness goes to a relay that connects to a stud on the fuse box and a ground behind the bumper. Your pump should not be waiting for operating temp to turn on, it must be running 100% of the time the engine is running, no and if or buts about it. If it's not then that is the reason your IATs get so high, the coolant in the intercooler brick is sitting still soaking in all that heat.


Found it, relay for the intercooler is jacked up...

Thanks everyone for your help
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Jobodizo

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Are there any options for intake/TB with the 2300 kit besides the Edelbrock add on stuff?
FP and BBK both make 90mm throttle bodies. I’ve thought about getting a 2018+ air box for the bigger MAF diameter, but haven’t really done anything with it yet. I’m sure you could get a piece like the Steeda cai to work with the end of the silicone tube of you really wanted to.
 

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Anyone using a higher weight oil after the supercharger install? say like 5w30?
 
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Anyone using a higher weight oil after the supercharger install? say like 5w30?
I asked EB tech support and they said it wasn’t necessary. Figured if I track it or start seeing vastly increased oil in the catch can I’d do it, otherwise I’m leaving mine alone.
 

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Played with the 3" pulley I had here and found out the green belt I had ordered for it was the wrong one. Here is some of the info I've been able to accumulate so far while researching belts.

Edelbrock included belt: Continental Elite 4060820 - 82"/2107mm effective length

This belt does fit the smaller 3", but I believe it will lead to slip since I'm able to twist the belt about 70% of the way when installed

K060812HD - does not work, I made a mistake with the lengths, turns out the effective length is actually 81-1/4"(2064mm). This belt came up short for the 3" pulley and waaaay too short for the 3.25"

Duralast 820K6 - 82"/2085mm belt does not work with the stock 3.25" pulley, it came up too short, I believe it's bc it's 2085mm and the included continental belt is 2107mm even though they both share the 820 numbers, it doesn't seem their effective lengths are the same(22mm difference). This belt does wrap around the 3" pulley though

Duralast 827K6(alternate #:825K6) has a 82.68"/2100mm length and should work for a spare/emergency belt should your stock one snap or you need one ASAP for some reason. This one has a 82.68" length vs the 82" included with the kit how ever it seems it's effective length is 7mm shorter.

Gates K080817RPM has a 81.75"/2077mm effective length, this should be short enough to avoid slip on the 3". It is a 8 rib belt so it will require slicing off 2 ribs for the 6 rib pulley

Gates K060828HD has a 82.87/2105mm effective length, this is only 2mm shorter than the included continental belt, so this one should work with the stock 3.25" pulley since it's only 2mm shorter(even though in inches it looks longer)

Gates K070825HD has a 82.59"/2099mm length, this should work on the 3.25" pulley and should be a good replacement. for the included continental belt, it's shorter than the 828HD by 6mm, so it might be a good belt choice for the 3" as well
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