Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[kwikS550]

Just want to add to this, In the pic below to vacuum line from the body to the actuator was just fitted as in the pics (arrived out the box like this) and i over looked this completely. When building up throttle it felt like it was holding back and then it would just go like feck.

I've just added hose clamps to both ends of this and it is a different car to drive. so much smoother and the power builds as you would expect from a supercharger. Before it was like driving a big turbo 80's car where there was nothing for ages then a huge explosion of power.

Haha, oh man I wish I saw your post before I did my install. After I installed the 1586 kit on my '17 I was getting the same boost lag on the test drive. Luckily enough my mechanic buddy and I figured it out in a few minutes, added some clamps and everything was good.

Before I installed the 1586 kit my setup was a ported '18 manifold with 47lb injectors, GT350 throttle body/CAI with an upgraded filter, dual 3" cat back on a Lund flex fuel tune. The car ripped pretty hard with that setup but it's a whole different animal with the Edelbrock supercharger.

For now I'm going to keep my the stock Edelbrock tune & stock hardware, but at some point down the road I'm planning on upgrading to the GT350 throttle body, modding the GT350 intake to work, upgrading injectors/pump & re-tuning on E.

Once I'm back on E I may try spinning the blower a little harder by going with a smaller pulley as well. I'm still considering Edelbrock's 8 rib setup, but I may just try one of those pulleys that have the special machining/coating to reduce slip.

We'll see, hopefully it will be a while before I start upgrading again LOL.

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[SoCalTim]

@kwikS550

Are you Manual or Auto trans?

Since you are running the supplied Edelbrock tune, how do you like it?

 

[kwikS550]

@kwikS550

Are you Manual or Auto trans?

Since you are running the supplied Edelbrock tune, how do you like it?

Overall I'm pretty happy with the Edelbrock tune with one caveat (that may or may not actually be an issue as I haven't even tried to resolve it yet). The car seems to rev hang at about 2k rpms while I'm rolling but off the throttle only to drop down to idle once the car is stopped. I pinged Edelbrock about it and they basically suggested that I make sure that I installed the correct tune they sent me. I honestly don't remember if there was even another tune preloaded on the SCT unit aside from the one they sent me and I loaded onto it.

Apparently there are different tunes based on which version of the IAT sensor your kit has (brass or plastic version, I have brass) and you need to have the right calibration. There's a chance there was a tune in the SCT that loaded instead of the one they sent me and I loaded onto it.

I'll probably take a look at it tonight, flash the car back to stock, clear the tunes (if there are even multiple) out of the SCT, flash the tune they sent me, and go from there.

My car has a manual trans.

I'm 100% speculating on this, but I suspect this (or any) blower would cause shifting issues on a 100% stock M6 car. Even when I had the Ford Racing Power Pack 2 setup I had binding issues with the shift linkage at WOT that caused lock out. I imagine that would be even worse with the torque from a blower.

I've made a few low budget/high value tweaks that have solved the shifting issues (even now with the blower installed). I'm running a Whiteline transmission mount insert which worked great by itself, and when I installed the blower I put in a Full Tilt Boogie shifter bracket in tandem with the trans mount insert. My car shifts AWESOME now.

The Whiteline trans bushing insert helps to keep the trans from twisting under load, and the Full Tilt Boogie bracket takes things a step farther by mounting the shifter directly to the trans to eliminate deflection in the linkage.

I've heard people say running the trans bushing insert with a shift bracket will cause too much NVH, it doesn't bother me. My catback or the stereo drown out most of the rattles in the dashboard LOL. The only negative side effect I've noticed from this combo is that the reverse lockout like vibrates/resonates/buzzes but only when you're really getting on it at high RPMs. Full Tilt Boogie does include some o-rings to remedy/help with this issue, I just haven't gotten around to installing them yet. Maybe I'll do that tonight too.

It's worth mentioning that I'm also running a Boomba short throw shifter with a shorty weighted shift knob, and some stuff in the rear suspension like BMR diff mount bushing inserts, BMR anti-wheel hop kit, and Boomba vertical links. The real big impacts on improving the stock shifter setup where the trans mount insert and shifter bracket though.

 

[ugstang17]

Shifting is mechanical. Has NOTHING to do with the supercharger package. Has everything to do with the trans/clutch/shifter/driverability. The MT-82 shifts very nicely with an added MGW shifter. The stock clutch can actually hold more than many people give it credit for. Its not meant for 6500 RPM launches like a performance clutch is, but that said it can handle quite a bit.

As for the TB hangup at 2000 RPM. That may be a throttle body issue but that said you would likely experience limp mode as TB issues quickly generate limp mode for a multitude of issues. E.G. %open air intake seen by the MAF exceeds the max flow rate in the TB throttle position table, feedback does not correspond with output, throttle position motor did not respond in the required time to position, etc.

What is your vacuum reading at idle? When you stab the throttle and let off and it hangs at 2K what does the AFR read? STFT's? LTFT's? If going lean and then settles as idle is reached you may have unmetered air getting into the intake after the MAF. Inspect the boot connection at the TB and make sure the TB is mounted correctly. This is a more common thing if this is the case. If LTFT's read 1.00 on one bank and read like they are adding fuel on the other in vacuum and then both sides even out and go 1.00 under boost it is possible you have unmetered air getting past a fuel injector or past a gasket between the intake runner and head under vacuum on that bank.

If you find no vacuum leaks then its time to datalog. capture the event in two or three logs. Then afterward with Key on engine off datalog just throttle cmd PID, throttle feedback PIDs, and throttle actual position PID. Cycle the pedal through the full pedal range smoothly and back to idle position -- again this is with engine off. Then stab and hold the pedal to the floor, release, stab and release three times like you are going through the first four gears. Allow time for the TB to return to idle position -- again this is with key on ENGINE OFF. This will allow the tuner to see what the throttle is doing and be proof enough that the TB is working as it should.

TB's today ore torque demand operated. They no longer simply open and close based on throttle pedal position like the early throttle by wire cars did. When a pedal increase is seen by the ECU today, the ECU determines the best suited way to achieve the newly commanded increase in torque. If small enough it may not even move the TB blade but rather correct spark advance or VCT timing as one of the options it has to choose from to meet the increased torque command. If it were a TB issue I would be inclined to think you would be getting a limp mode condition with a wrench light. TB issues are very closely monitored as they are direct safety concerns if the TB goes haywire. More than just the engine can be damaged if a TB sticks open WOT as a given example.

As for datalogging you will needto read up on using livelink II that is available from SCT for use on your laptop. IT will allow you to create custom datalog configurations like i have described so you can target specific PIDS and return them to the tuner when things like this happen. This is the only thing I miss about going Ngage over SCT. But I still use livelink II to look at my ngage dataloghs as they are a simple excel .csv file which is what livelink is formatted to create adn open for viewing.

Goodluck.

 

[Dalton@Evolution]

Haha, oh man I wish I saw your post before I did my install. After I installed the 1586 kit on my '17 I was getting the same boost lag on the test drive. Luckily enough my mechanic buddy and I figured it out in a few minutes, added some clamps and everything was good.

Before I installed the 1586 kit my setup was a ported '18 manifold with 47lb injectors, GT350 throttle body/CAI with an upgraded filter, dual 3" cat back on a Lund flex fuel tune. The car ripped pretty hard with that setup but it's a whole different animal with the Edelbrock supercharger.

For now I'm going to keep my the stock Edelbrock tune & stock hardware, but at some point down the road I'm planning on upgrading to the GT350 throttle body, modding the GT350 intake to work, upgrading injectors/pump & re-tuning on E.

Once I'm back on E I may try spinning the blower a little harder by going with a smaller pulley as well. I'm still considering Edelbrock's 8 rib setup, but I may just try one of those pulleys that have the special machining/coating to reduce slip.

We'll see, hopefully it will be a while before I start upgrading again LOL.

We have a billet tensioner for the 8-Rib Belt Drive.

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

Well I learned you don't ever call there tech support, the guy I talked to sounded so bored and annoyed that I bothered him to do his job that I didn't even ask all my questions. I'll figure it out myself.

 

[Jobodizo]

Well I learned you don't ever call there tech support, the guy I talked to sounded so bored and annoyed that I bothered him to do his job that I didn't even ask all my questions. I'll figure it out myself.

Really? I had that sort of issue with the tune department, but the tech guys were always ready to help. Did you talk to Tony?

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

Really? I had that support of issue with the tune department, but the tech guys were always ready to help. Did you talk to Tony?

I do not remember the guys name but I felt like I was actually inconveniencing him by calling in. I've never heard someone so exasperated on the phone before. All I wanted to ask was if they recommend an oil weight for the motor and if they could turn on the dash gauges in the calibration file. Maybe it was just a bad day because I was on hold for quite a while.

 

[Burkey]

I do not remember the guys name but I felt like I was actually inconveniencing him by calling in. I've never heard someone so exasperated on the phone before. All I wanted to ask was if they recommend an oil weight for the motor and if they could turn on the dash gauges in the calibration file. Maybe it was just a bad day because I was on hold for quite a while.

I’m quite sure that @Edelbrock Tech would like to hear about your dramas and get you sorted.

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

I’m quite sure that @Edelbrock Tech would like to hear about your dramas and get you sorted.

He did eventually give me an answer I just won't be calling again. Not trying to start shit for this guy now I feel bad for posting it.

On another note the 1586 kit arrived yesterday and it looks fantastic. I've never seen anything packed so well. I'm definitely going to need a hand putting the blower itself on because that sucker is heavy.

 

[HA8N3RO]

Just finished my install this weekend, I only have a few things to add.

1) Request your tune file before the weekend, Edelbrock isn't open on the weekends and will not respond. I should have skimmed the first few pages of my manual first, but didn't.

2) The provided belt does fit but do not install on the supercharger pulley last, it will NOT go on this way. You want to install on the bottom right idler pulley last and the belt provided will go on:

3) When installing the LTR (Low Temp Radiator) I found it much easier to completely remove the crash beam, its an extra 4 bolts on the outside of the crash beam, but it
gave me so much more room and was easier to fit the support brackets. Spent way too much time trying to slide in the LTR behind the crash beam.

4) I received my kit back on April 12th, but waited to have OPG and crank sprocket installed before I installed the supercharger. My kit already came with the new brass sensor mentioned earlier in the thread.

5) LMR has a great page on coyote motor torque specs, some places the manual was missing specs or like in my case, we had to change the water pump as well since it was leaking, so this info was very handy, might be useful to you:
https://lmr.com/products/mustang-50-coyote-motor-torque-specs

 

[Edelbrock Tech]

I do not remember the guys name but I felt like I was actually inconveniencing him by calling in. I've never heard someone so exasperated on the phone before. All I wanted to ask was if they recommend an oil weight for the motor and if they could turn on the dash gauges in the calibration file. Maybe it was just a bad day because I was on hold for quite a while.

I apologize for the service you revived through our tech line. The support we provide here on 6G is separate from that. Please let me know if you have any questions and or need further assistance. Shoot me a PM anytime.

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

I apologize for the service you revived through our tech line. The support we provide here on 6G is separate from that. Please let me know if you have any questions and or need further assistance. Shoot me a PM anytime.

Can you tell me what exact tool I need to get the firewall fuel line off? I have 3 different kits and I can't get it to budge. I have the plastic rings and the metal ones.

 

[Kona 18]

Can you tell me what exact tool I need to get the firewall fuel line off? I have 3 different kits and I can't get it to budge. I have the plastic rings and the metal ones.

You need the $10 tool, 3/8 quick disconnect tool

 

[Jobodizo]

Can you tell me what exact tool I need to get the firewall fuel line off? I have 3 different kits and I can't get it to budge. I have the plastic rings and the metal ones.

I used the plastic rings with a wrench straddling it for leverage and a buddy holding the firewall side. It’s a pita.

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