Does your rear rotor look like this?

[texasboy21]

Bed pads as in make consecutive hard stops?

The bedding procedure will differ slightly from pad manufacturer. Look into your pad's specific procedure.

Sponsored

 

[jasonstang]

Looks like the pad has been glazed on the inside.

 

[PatrickGT]

Looks more like the pad is only contacting on the inner portion of the rotor, or there is something stuck between the pad and rotor in that location.

 

[JuRuKi]

is taking apart the rear brakes something easy to do at home? Do i need like a special caliper took?

 

[qtrracer]

Scuff off the rotor current brake material before rebedding. Also, check the pads to be sure they are square to the rotor and the correct size.

 

[JuRuKi]

Given the list of mods in my signature, would the dealer fix it or should i stay away from them?

 

[mikes2017gt]

IMO, you haven't done any mods that affect the caliper to rotor relationship, nor have you changed the pads (unless I missed that). Unless the dealer can prove that one or more of your mods directly caused this brake issue, they SHOULD NOT (notice I didn't say "cannot") deny warranty work for this issue. You have a bunch of suspension mods, just like half the Mustang owners out there. None of them would cause this issue. Either your pads were/went bad or you have something stuck in that spot on the pads that is causing that wear/marking pattern.

The dealer should do a rear brake job. Replace the pads, cut the rotors and done. It's an hour job, if that.

 

[JuRuKi]

Im taking it in next week. I wanted to try checking the rear pads but i think i need some special tool to compress the caliper. I also have a bad puddle pony light so ill take care of that at the same time. Thanks for the help!

 

[NightmareMoon]

My guess is that you lost a chunk of the brake pad (crumbled off). Definitely worth inspecting.

The rear brakes are really pretty easy to access at home. Its only one bolt to get at the rear pads.

To start, put the rear wheel(s) on jackstands and remove the wheel(s).

Then remove the one bottom caliper bolt (it faces to the inside of the wheel well), which will allow you to then rotate the caliper upwards and gives access to the pads. They pop right out of their metal spring brackets.

After checking the pads, to get the caliper back over them, you may need to push the piston back a little. This is done by rotating the piston. You can rotate the piston back using the tips of a pair of needle nose pliers if you must (FYI, don't try to press it in with clamps, they don't work that way), or you can hit up the local auto parts store and borrow a caliper tool to help rotate the piston. Most auto parts places should rent you one for very cheap. It shouldn't take much to push the piston back far enough to slide the caliper back over the pads if you're not replacing them with new thicker pads.

BEFORE you rotate the piston back, be sure to lubricate the rubber boots around the caliper really well with some WD40 or something before you rotate that piston or you could tear the rubber boot. Wiping them clean isn't a bad idea, just be careful not to puncture the boots. If you twist that piston back with dry boots, they can tear (ask me how I know).

Reinstall the lower caliper bolt (torque specs for these and other suspension bolts are in a sticky at the top of the suspension forum), put the wheels back on and you're good to go.

Now, if the pad does have a chunk missing, as I suspect, you'll need a new pad, and with that much abnormal wear, its probably a good idea to have that rotor resurfaced flat again, or just buy a new rotor.

 

[JuRuKi]

My guess is that you lost a chunk of the brake pad (crumbled off). Definitely worth inspecting.

The rear brakes are really pretty easy to access at home. Its only one bolt to get at the rear pads.

To start, put the rear wheel(s) on jackstands and remove the wheel(s).

Then remove the one bottom caliper bolt (it faces to the inside of the wheel well), which will allow you to then rotate the caliper upwards and gives access to the pads. They pop right out of their metal spring brackets.

After checking the pads, to get the caliper back over them, you may need to push the piston back a little. This is done by rotating the piston. You can rotate the piston back using the tips of a pair of needle nose pliers if you must (FYI, don't try to press it in with clamps, they don't work that way), or you can hit up the local auto parts store and borrow a caliper tool to help rotate the piston. Most auto parts places should rent you one for very cheap. It shouldn't take much to push the piston back far enough to slide the caliper back over the pads if you're not replacing them with new thicker pads.

BEFORE you rotate the piston back, be sure to lubricate the rubber boots around the caliper really well with some WD40 or something before you rotate that piston or you could tear the rubber boot. Wiping them clean isn't a bad idea, just be careful not to puncture the boots. If you twist that piston back with dry boots, they can tear (ask me how I know).

Reinstall the lower caliper bolt (torque specs for these and other suspension bolts are in a sticky at the top of the suspension forum), put the wheels back on and you're good to go.

Now, if the pad does have a chunk missing, as I suspect, you'll need a new pad, and with that much abnormal wear, its probably a good idea to have that rotor resurfaced flat again, or just buy a new rotor.

Forgot to mention: My rear rotor on the passenger side looks the same so i dont think a could be missing a chunk of pad on both sides on the same spot.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Forgot to mention: My rear rotor on the passenger side looks the same so i dont think a could be missing a chunk of pad on both sides on the same spot.

Sure.. Still tho, removing them for inspection is still the next step. It should be pretty obvious whatever the issue is.

I don't think the dealership can really complain if you have them do it, your other mods shouldn't affect your warranty for a brake issue.

Sponsored