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vaeevictiss
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this is funny because i feel i found a post here recently asking this but had a poll with a bunch of different weight oils and from what i remember they were all about even lol. Im sure it doesnt matter nearly as much as just doing proper maintenance and using a good quality synthetic. I used 5W50 because thats what everyone said i should use after going boosted. Now im not so set on it. It seems a pain in the ass to find 5W50 anywhere but from a select few mfgs and never in a brick and mortar store.
Honestly, and i don't know if your boosted or not, the little i have read on the actual science/physics would show that thinner oil should be better in a boosted car. Thinner oils create less resistance, flow better/faster, and transfer heat/cool better than thicker oils. Also need to look at your climate. Here in VA i would be changing my oil every season based on "what thickness to use at what temperatures".
I get the idea is probably to reduce blowby under boost, but i feel if youre getting blowby just from a slightly thinner oil, its probably time to just rebuild the motor.
Also, and this is purely my opinion, but im willing to bet the 100 different oil companies all come from the same 2 or 3 suppliers lol. Mobile 1...here ya go, Royal purple...*throws purple dye in oil*...here ya go.
This all being said, Ford recommends 5W50 in the GT500 lol. on the flipside, Dodge calls for 0W40 in the hellcats, chevy calls for 5w50 in the ZL1 1LE, and the ZO6. Lamborghini recommends 5W40 in the Urus (their only factory boosted vehicle), but says 5W30 and 40 are fine also.
sorry if this long winded and opinionated, especially if youre not boosted lol.
Honestly, and i don't know if your boosted or not, the little i have read on the actual science/physics would show that thinner oil should be better in a boosted car. Thinner oils create less resistance, flow better/faster, and transfer heat/cool better than thicker oils. Also need to look at your climate. Here in VA i would be changing my oil every season based on "what thickness to use at what temperatures".
I get the idea is probably to reduce blowby under boost, but i feel if youre getting blowby just from a slightly thinner oil, its probably time to just rebuild the motor.
Also, and this is purely my opinion, but im willing to bet the 100 different oil companies all come from the same 2 or 3 suppliers lol. Mobile 1...here ya go, Royal purple...*throws purple dye in oil*...here ya go.
This all being said, Ford recommends 5W50 in the GT500 lol. on the flipside, Dodge calls for 0W40 in the hellcats, chevy calls for 5w50 in the ZL1 1LE, and the ZO6. Lamborghini recommends 5W40 in the Urus (their only factory boosted vehicle), but says 5W30 and 40 are fine also.
sorry if this long winded and opinionated, especially if youre not boosted lol.
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FlipC
Well-Known Member
Look at my first post. There is a blog this guy wrote Years ago. More Information than you can absorb.
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FlipC
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MOTOR OIL ENGINEERING TEST DATA | 540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths (wordpress.com)
Read it Again K4Fxd, this guy is is a n Enginer and has tested more than 200 differant motor oils.
Its a Long post Blog for sure, but has Alot of data to back his claims up. Read It! But you can run ever you want in your engines its up to you! Me I want the Highest shear strength and Temp. oil out their!
shogun32
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at what cost to benefit? And are the maybe-not theoretical benefits realizable under your particular driving conditions?
Sure that $5000 knife made by a 10th gen samurai sword master can cut that cucumber razor thin, but I can do the same with a $12 mandolin from Tenmu.
If there is no measurable difference between Wally-mart housebrand 5w30 and Mimi's uber blend, except price and theoretical 'better', is it?
Granted I won't put Ford's Motorcraft 5w20 swill in my engine. But that's because I don't trust Ford's not-engineering-based recommendations. Oil choice is more so a factor of bearing clearance, and loading influenced by flow rates.
SheepDog
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Here's the stuff for you. Run this and report back.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-...EWHyu1fksXhBzByV9153gQ_nluLgw0sBoC6a0QAvD_BwE
Jstang23
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Ok I feel like I need to add my 2 cents!
It doesn't matter if you're going WOT or cruising, if you are not exceeding the "green" part of the oil temperature gauge then 5W-30 is what you should use. Ford designed the gen3 coyote to use 5W-30 in all cases during normal operating temperature (green part of the gauge). I have been to 8 track days running 5w-30 with Ceratec (for the tick) and have always have flawless oil.
Arguably the most important part of what the oil does is during cold start up, where the oil is at its thickest and not towards the top of the engine. 5W-30 meets and exceeds all the standards from ford for the cold start viscosity.
Also something to note, ford can and will void your warranty should you blow a motor and were found to be running anything then the recommended oil. Now will this happen, maybe if you have a dealership that wants to find any reason to void the warranty.
Obviously things change when you modify the engine, such as boosting it. However, I strongly encourage people not to stray away from 5W-30 on a stock engine. An exception is if you track it heavily and happen to actually be fast, then 5W-50 could provide you some extra heat dissipation. But be warned, when switching over to 5W-50 you have to sit there and let the oil get pretty dang warm before you drive it.
Cheers
It doesn't matter if you're going WOT or cruising, if you are not exceeding the "green" part of the oil temperature gauge then 5W-30 is what you should use. Ford designed the gen3 coyote to use 5W-30 in all cases during normal operating temperature (green part of the gauge). I have been to 8 track days running 5w-30 with Ceratec (for the tick) and have always have flawless oil.
Arguably the most important part of what the oil does is during cold start up, where the oil is at its thickest and not towards the top of the engine. 5W-30 meets and exceeds all the standards from ford for the cold start viscosity.
Also something to note, ford can and will void your warranty should you blow a motor and were found to be running anything then the recommended oil. Now will this happen, maybe if you have a dealership that wants to find any reason to void the warranty.
Obviously things change when you modify the engine, such as boosting it. However, I strongly encourage people not to stray away from 5W-30 on a stock engine. An exception is if you track it heavily and happen to actually be fast, then 5W-50 could provide you some extra heat dissipation. But be warned, when switching over to 5W-50 you have to sit there and let the oil get pretty dang warm before you drive it.
Cheers
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FlipC
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Well Shogun, if you read most of the post he is an Engineer and has test data to prove the shear strength and Temp limits of 250+ different oils! it tested the Best. I have ran it in Both of my GT's all my Shelby's for 4+ years with never a problem. Just some FYI Information, Facts Don't lie!
shogun32
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I'm not doubting his academic rigor. Props to him for all the effort. But at the end of the day, "does it matter"? There was a YT guy who did cold-flow analysis of a few dozen oils and it was academically interesting as well. But short of living north of 20deg latitude in deepest Mordor (er Canukistan) in the middle of winter, the discussion is pretty much moot.
engineermike
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I don't buy the 540 rat blog data.
I would urge anyone to research oil specs. Nearly every oil spec is a compromise, especially the American ones. The ACEA A3/B4 is the only industry PCMO spec written specifically to cater to performance engines. It has rigorous minimums for ZDDP concentration and HTHS. No 5w20 and most 5w30's won't pass, though there are some 5w30's that will. Also, the ZDDP minimum is at odds with after SL if I recall correctly due to long term cat protection concerns, so the A3/B4 5w30's will only be certified to SL. Oddly, API allowed higher ZDDP in the 5w40's in the later specs so you can get a 5w40 that's both API SP and ACEA A3/B4.
So would you prefer an oil that caters to [arguably] protecting cats for 300k miles or protecting your high wear components in high performance engines?
I would urge anyone to research oil specs. Nearly every oil spec is a compromise, especially the American ones. The ACEA A3/B4 is the only industry PCMO spec written specifically to cater to performance engines. It has rigorous minimums for ZDDP concentration and HTHS. No 5w20 and most 5w30's won't pass, though there are some 5w30's that will. Also, the ZDDP minimum is at odds with after SL if I recall correctly due to long term cat protection concerns, so the A3/B4 5w30's will only be certified to SL. Oddly, API allowed higher ZDDP in the 5w40's in the later specs so you can get a 5w40 that's both API SP and ACEA A3/B4.
So would you prefer an oil that caters to [arguably] protecting cats for 300k miles or protecting your high wear components in high performance engines?
shogun32
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Replacement cats are a quick visit to the animal shelter, er sawzall, so ill take the wear parts protection for $300, alex.
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