Thinking mobile 1 super car which is 40w.
This is the answer. Thank you!You only need thicker oil when you plan on taking it past normal operating temperature.
You need to maintain a certain viscosity based on internal clearances. At high temperatures, viscosity is reduced so that's why people go with a 40 or 50 weight oil so that as it thins out it gets back to the original requirement for viscosity. If you don't take the oil past 230*, then you don't need anymore than 30 weight. Also quality is more important than weight, I'd rather run a high quality full synthetic 30 than a crap quality 50.
It's basically irrelevant. For your needs it's going to perform just as well as a quality PUP 5w30.But let me ask you, if I can get mobile, one supercar, which is 40w, probably still a better choice, correct? Or is it irrelevant in my situation?
I would err on the side of thicker. If not needed for temps it is better for the cam phasers. The thicker oil holds cam timing better, which is why I run 40 weight in a N/A engine.40w, probably still a better choice, correct? Or is it irrelevant in my situation?
Any brand with the A3/B4 spec is what I recommend. That is a performance spec not an emissions one.PUP over Mobile One?
Me too. 5W40.which is why I run 40 weight in a N/A engine.
I would.PUP over Mobile One?
Yup, all day every day.PUP over Mobile One?
My local shop carries 0w-40 in the PUP and 5w-30. I know your comments about not needing anything above 30w but I am curious if the 0w to 5w make any difference if I err on the side of using 40w?Yup, all day every day.
That's not to say the Euro spec M1 is trash, just would not be my first choice.