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Differential R&I on jack stands?

Discussion in 'Transmission & Drivetrain' started by NeverSatisfied, May 12, 2020.

  1. NeverSatisfied

    NeverSatisfied Well-Known Member

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    Any pointers from anyone that's done it? I'm going to tackle that this over the weekend so I can replace the cover with one for a cooler

    Basic steps as I've researched are
    • Remove exhaust
    • Remove brakes, Rotors,
    • Remove knuckle
    • Remove half shafts
    • Lower front of IRS cradle and remove forward bolts from diff
    • re-level the IRS cradle and remove the remaining bolts
    • lower the differential
    • Swap cover and reverse remembering to torque bolts with suspension pre-loaded.
    Is it possible once the knuckle is loosened but not removed to pop the half shafts from the diff and remove the knuckle and half shaft as an assembly? My thought was to avoid disturbing the 1 time use half shaft nuts?

    Anything else?

    Thank you!
     
  2. kevinvan6000

    kevinvan6000 Well-Known Member

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    When I did mine, I left the rotors and knuckle on. Just remove the calipers and support them out of the way with zip ties or what not. I didn't need to lower the cradle at all either. The front bolts you can reach without lowering the cradle. Make sure to mark the driveshaft when you remove it from the diff flange to make sure it goes in where it was removed from. Also, I would just budget for new axle nuts and not worry about trying to save them. If the axles come out without any issues, all in all, its a pretty easy swap.
     
  3. EFI

    EFI Well-Known Member

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    Wouldn't it be easier to just replace the drain and fill plugs with AN fittings?
     
  4. StrongFord

    StrongFord Well-Known Member

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    No need to touch the cradle bolts at all. The differential has it's own four bolts and it'll drop right down. The half shafts push into the knuckle and the knuckle will need to be pivoted down or removed to pull them out.

    I'd recommend you support the car as high as you can to give yourself some working room. Having a second person to work the jack to lower and lift the diff while you work the wrenches is a big help.
    upload_2020-5-12_11-28-18.png
    upload_2020-5-12_11-27-37.png
     
  5. OP
    OP
    NeverSatisfied

    NeverSatisfied Well-Known Member

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    I think so too, but I got one with the FTBR kit so on it goes
     
  6. Performance nut

    Performance nut Well-Known Member

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    Resurrecting a semi-old thread

    Did you end up swapping it out with jack stands after all? My new to me diff gets here tomorrow so I'm contemplating whether it is too difficult for me or not.
     
  7. OP
    OP
    NeverSatisfied

    NeverSatisfied Well-Known Member

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    Yup I did it. It totally sucks. A second set of hands is extremely helpful or I’d at least get that low profile trans jack from HF to support the diff R&I.

    I’ll pay someone to do it before I ever take that thing out again on the ground
     
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  8. Brian@BMVK

    [email protected] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah did it on jack stands. Rent or Buy (Harbor Freight) a transmission jack. It's not bad. Get some halfshaft pullers:
    https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-273...0M7YK1XBRXF&psc=1&refRID=ZWCVDDD4N0M7YK1XBRXF
     
  9. Mikepol2

    Mikepol2 Well-Known Member

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  10. TeeLew

    TeeLew Well-Known Member

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    I just dropped the rear sub last week. Take your time; it's not too bad. I bought a Harbor Freight ATV/motorcycle jack that did a good job of allowing me to move & position everything in a reasonable manner.

    An impact wrench makes getting things apart much easier & faster.
     
  11. TheHydro

    TheHydro Well-Known Member

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    I did mine on jack stands and didn’t find it too difficult. I don’t know what kind of power you make (or plan to make) but I would consider through bolting the diff while you have it out or at a minimum upgrading the bolts.
     
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  12. Performance nut

    Performance nut Well-Known Member

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    I have the Steeda bushing upgrade kit on now. Are you suggesting further upgrade?
     
  13. TheHydro

    TheHydro Well-Known Member

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    I had the steeda kit as well and with the power I was making with my whipple just on street driving my diff was still moving. When I pulled the steeda bolts out they had wear marks from moving. I ordered the extreme diff bolt kit from lethal performance which requires you to drill out two of the threaded bushings. The kit also comes with sleeves for the bolts to keep them from moving around inside the bushing. After installing that kit my diff hasn’t moved at all. Seeing that I had issues with the original steeda bolts only on street driving, I would imagine any one who drag races would eventually break the bolts. I wish I would have known about the bolt issue the first time I had my diff out and I would have replaced them at that time.
     
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