Diff lock out bushing-A luch box let down

[Robottrainer]

I bought a set of BMR diff lock out bushing and decided to put them in today since it seemed easy. Wrong.
Nothing to do with BMR.

First I had to cut the front bolts since the Ford Perf axles are larger and they are like 1/16" too long to get out. Then the front bushings.

I loosened the rear cradle bolts and removed the front ones. I dropped the front at least 4". No way the drivers bushing was going in. It appears the steel sleave in the cradle sticks out about 1/4". I couldnt even get the bolt in by itself with no bushing. Only way that is going in is to disconnect the driveshaft and move the cradle back. I don't want to get into that. So I installed the shorter front bolts, tightened everything up and called it a day.

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[NGOT8R]

Don’t give up on it, try again. I had the same issue that you had removing bolts and them hitting the half shafts. I dropped the entire cradle using two floor jacks, a scissor jack and tree stand.

 

[Robottrainer]

I cut the bolt with a Sawzall. Blew two blades doing it. I put the shorter one in that come with the kit. I'll try prying the cradle backe 1/4" and see if it goes. If not I'll save it for another day when I change the drive shaft. I don't want to get into disconnecting the drive shaft and dropping the whole cradle just for that. I'm not tracking the car. Probably no benefit for me. I just figured since I'm doing the springs I'd do that and the cradle lock out at the same time. I thought diff lock out would be easiest. Surprise!

 

[WD Pro]

The fronts are real tight up against the heat shield :

WD

 

[Robottrainer]

The fronts are real tight up against the heat shield :

WD

Did you drop the cradle right out? I had the front cradle bolts right out, the rears were in about 1/2" and let the jack right down. No way was it going in

 

[WD Pro]

Ford actually put them in for me as part of the rebuild following a warranty claim for a broken diff bolt.

They dropped the diff without removing the cradle, but then dropped the cradle to fit the diff support bushes along with the subframe support bushes and subframe alignment dowels.

I have a good relationship with the tech and he said the diff pucks were fine, with the caveat that the diff had to be perfectly aligned as the pucks and bolt sleeves removed any tolerance that they normally have for reassembly.

He described the subframe support bushes as ‘emotional’ with reference to the horseshoe clamps.

He said the alignment dowels went straight in, but he also said my subframe was good from the factory (backed up by the witness marks from before / after in the shitty euro underseal).

I have to be honest, it’s not a job I would like to tackle unless you have the ability to get the car up at a reasonable height and you have the ability to move the subframe around reasonably easily.

On a good car on a good day it could be dead easy, but on the other hand, any misalignment of the car and frustration from the guy holding the tools could easily lead to some of the issues you read about on here and probably explains why there are stories from both ends of the scale.

I’ve respect for anyone who tackles those three jobs at home, on their back with the car on jack stands etc

WD

 

[Robottrainer]

Ford actually put them in for me as part of the rebuild following a warranty claim for a broken diff bolt.

They dropped the diff without removing the cradle, but then dropped the cradle to fit the diff support bushes along with the subframe support bushes and subframe alignment dowels.

I have a good relationship with the tech and he said the diff pucks were fine, with the caveat that the diff had to be perfectly aligned as the pucks and bolt sleeves removed any tolerance that they normally have for reassembly.

He described the subframe support bushes as ‘emotional’ with reference to the horseshoe clamps.

He said the alignment dowels went straight in, but he also said my subframe was good from the factory (backed up by the witness marks from before / after in the shitty euro underseal).

I have to be honest, it’s not a job I would like to tackle unless you have the ability to get the car up at a reasonable height and you have the ability to move the subframe around reasonably easily.

On a good car on a good day it could be dead easy, but on the other hand, any misalignment of the car and frustration from the guy holding the tools could easily lead to some of the issues you read about on here and probably explains why there are stories from both ends of the scale.

I’ve respect for anyone who tackles those three jobs at home, on their back with the car on jack stands etc

WD

Yeah, that's where I'm at. The only thing I used from the kit was the front bolt because I had to saw the original off because I have larger after market axles and the bolt was to long to come out on its own. The cradle lock out is easy

 

[Robottrainer]

Ford actually put them in for me as part of the rebuild following a warranty claim for a broken diff bolt.

They dropped the diff without removing the cradle, but then dropped the cradle to fit the diff support bushes along with the subframe support bushes and subframe alignment dowels.

I have a good relationship with the tech and he said the diff pucks were fine, with the caveat that the diff had to be perfectly aligned as the pucks and bolt sleeves removed any tolerance that they normally have for reassembly.

He described the subframe support bushes as ‘emotional’ with reference to the horseshoe clamps.

He said the alignment dowels went straight in, but he also said my subframe was good from the factory (backed up by the witness marks from before / after in the shitty euro underseal).

I have to be honest, it’s not a job I would like to tackle unless you have the ability to get the car up at a reasonable height and you have the ability to move the subframe around reasonably easily.

On a good car on a good day it could be dead easy, but on the other hand, any misalignment of the car and frustration from the guy holding the tools could easily lead to some of the issues you read about on here and probably explains why there are stories from both ends of the scale.

I’ve respect for anyone who tackles those three jobs at home, on their back with the car on jack stands etc

WD

You are right. These things are all different. Some are perfect some less than creating problems for the one size fits all parts. I've seen videos where they just drop the cradle a few inches and they have enough clearance. I had the front cradle bolts right out, cradle dropped 4 inches and could not get it in. If I did get them in, I doubt I'd be able to swing a wrench.

In my case, I think the cradle has to be dropped. I rarely beat on the car hard enough that I probably don't need them especially on a street tire. I'll shelve them for now. Maybe I'll get a shop to put them in sometime down the road. Onto the cradle bushings, cam arms and springs.

 

[WD Pro]

You are right. These things are all different. Some are perfect some less than creating problems for the one size fits all parts. I've seen videos where they just drop the cradle a few inches and they have enough clearance.

It might have been a running change, but I have seen cars with no heat shields around the fuel tank affecting available clearance in that area.

WD

 

[WildHorse]

Easiest way is just to take the 1/2 shafts out, undo the driveshaft. Takes my dumb-arse like 45mins/side for the axle(s), 10 mins for the d-shaft. Leave the cradle in place. Tons of room after that. Also dropping the cradle means alignment time.

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