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Diff bushing inserts install; please help! Quick question

WD Pro

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If you are insistent on doing just the rears, and not wanting to spend big $’s on fancy bolts :
  • Swap the Steeda supplied 10.9 grade bolts out with 12.9’s (cheap from a good bolt supplier).
  • Get some bolt spacer sleeves (Ford use a M14 in a M16 clearance hole).
I think @GTP is still making the bolt spacer sleeves :like:

WD :like:
 

NGOT8R

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Can you link which bolts I exactly need to get? It’s not the 180 dollar ones right?

also I don’t launch my car at all. $180 seems excessive for 2 bolts
They’re expensive, but yes those are the ones. I think I paid either $120 or $149 for mine at the time (over 4.5 years ago).
 

John S

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Kelltrac's Big Bertha through bolts are half price of Steeds's bolts and their complete kit is the way to go for a worry-free upgrade. Unfortunately, drilling out the factory bushings for the better bolts requires dropping the cradle enough to access the fronts. Do it once, do it right, and check that off your list of worries for snapping axle housing mounting bolts.

1743353876318-s3.webp
 
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Metz3020827

Metz3020827

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Kelltrac's Big Bertha through bolts are half price of Steeds's bolts and their complete kit is the way to go for a worry-free upgrade. Unfortunately, drilling out the factory bushings for the better bolts requires dropping the cradle enough to access the fronts. Do it once, do it right, and check that off your list of worries for snapping axle housing mounting bolts.

1743353876318-s3.jpg
that sounds quite intensive.
 

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Hey everyone. I’m getting ready to install the red Steeda diff bushing inserts.

on the rear ones, with your car off the ground, the CjPonyParts video says just loosen the subframe bolts a little, and do the bushings with the car in the air. (Their video shows the car in the air on a 2 post lift with no support on anything)

the Steeda video and install instructions call for you to support the front subframe after you loosen the subframe bolts.

what do I need to do?

I only plan to do the rear bushings for now. Thanks.
I was working on jack stand's and had to drop the whole sub frame down to get the front one's in but the back one's are easy and almost don't even have to lower sub frame for them. Not sure how that will work, only doing the back bushes.
 

Boyd

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...also I don’t launch my car at all.
Then why do it? Sounds like it may be a little too intense of a job for you. Not being harsh.
 

jpjr501

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Got the same problem, torn diff bushings.

Following this thread with the parts. Post pics of the install.

 

RacerPaul

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It would be a wise move to do both front and rear yes, the front are difficult, but if you are on a lift use a screw jack to lower the diff and subframe with front subframe bolts removed while keeping the rear only loosened the front differential bushing inserts are much easier to access that way
I have done this but not put to the test as I am seriously considering the bolt upgrade whatever the cost
A sheered bolt in a differential bushing would be a huge and expensive problem. Btw the differential bushing inner sleeve is aluminum (at least mine are), so be careful when tightening
Whatever you decide to do, good luck.
 

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GTP

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If you are insistent on doing just the rears, and not wanting to spend big $’s on fancy bolts :
  • Swap the Steeda supplied 10.9 grade bolts out with 12.9’s (cheap from a good bolt supplier).
  • Get some bolt spacer sleeves (Ford use a M14 in a M16 clearance hole).
I think @GTP is still making the bolt spacer sleeves :like:

WD :like:
Yes, I just restocked.

I have aftermarket pucks, with my diff gap sleeves, and I use the factory bolts. My hard accelerations are always from a roll on a road course, slowest speed is 35mph.
 

FRiCK916

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So whats the go-to soultion for a bolt on car on street tires that gets the gears hit correctly from time to time? I hear thuds ons shifts in the rear now, assuming a torn bushing, i have the steeda inserts in the garage. What's the recipe here?

Thanks all
 

GTP

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Start by inspecting your bushings. Then add the pucks and gap sleeves. The fronts are difficult as many have reported. Either blow those off, put them off, or have a plan to drop the cradle quite a lot to get them in. (Applies especially to 2018+ cars with heat shielded fuel tank.)
 
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Metz3020827

Metz3020827

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Start by inspecting your bushings. Then add the pucks and gap sleeves. The fronts are difficult as many have reported. Either blow those off, put them off, or have a plan to drop the cradle quite a lot to get them in. (Applies especially to 2018+ cars with heat shielded fuel tank.)
Just curious, my bushings being torn would that cause a clunk when driving over lane divider bumps?
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