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kilobravo

kilobravo

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Doc: Many thanks for the information. Do you know how much resin is in one of those Big Blue cartridges? That is, how much do you order?

I don't do FakeBook and that's the only place I found a reference for "RV Transformers." Found a few other sites for DI Resin but they have all sorts of types, none of which appear to be even close to the CR Spotless resin red and they didn't mention quantities/bag.

Anyway, if you have a non FB link for RV Transformers, I'd appreciate a share.

Now as for using the unit, how long after resin replacement do you start seeing the TDS meter go up? I realize these meters are not the best at measuring TDS (I have one for the house water supply,) but it's relative and that's probably good enough.

I hear "300 gallons" almost everywhere for the DIC-20 and doing the math, that isn't a lot of rinses figuring as low as five minutes per. At 2gpm from the pressure washer times five comes to 10 gal/rinse in round numbers, based on that "300 gallon" life. End result = 30 rinses.

Obviously, folks are getting a good bit more out of one batch of canisters so I figured I'd give it a try and ordered one. The plan is wash and rinse on supply then, switch the pw input to the DIC-20 and only do the final rinse with DI water.

I think my neighbors think I'm crazy
James: I would bet that most of the people who frequent this section have similar neighbors with similar opinions. <grin> Who cares, right?

We can't help it if washing, drying, waxing, etc., are therapeutic. It is what it is... :-)
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CJJon

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What device are you using to test your water? If you’re trying to measure the hardness of your water with a TDS meter you’re likely wasting your time. It’s not a direct measure of what’s in your water.
Yes, a properly calibrated TDS meter. Well, in terms of spotting I think it is.

Anyway, My water doesn't leave spots when I blow it dry. Neither do I have deposits on faucets, etc. It really is some very pure water. It comes from a very deep well.
 

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Am I the only one that no longer get email alerts when someone responds to a subscribed thread? Just wondering.
 

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Yes, a properly calibrated TDS meter. Well, in terms of spotting I think it is.

Anyway, My water doesn't leave spots when I blow it dry. Neither do I have deposits on faucets, etc. It really is some very pure water. It comes from a very deep well.
Understood but a TDS meter directly measures water conductivity and calculates hardness from that reading.

you can’t measure water hardness via TDS meters at all, no matter how “calibrated” it appears to be.
 

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Understood but a TDS meter directly measures water conductivity and calculates hardness from that reading.

you can’t measure water hardness via TDS meters at all, no matter how “calibrated” it appears to be.
Well, yeah but TDS meters generally read higher than the hardness value. A TDS of 17 is pretty damn pure and not hard in the least.
 

Dr. Norts

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Doc: Many thanks for the information. Do you know how much resin is in one of those Big Blue cartridges? That is, how much do you order?

I don't do FakeBook and that's the only place I found a reference for "RV Transformers." Found a few other sites for DI Resin but they have all sorts of types, none of which appear to be even close to the CR Spotless resin red and they didn't mention quantities/bag.

Anyway, if you have a non FB link for RV Transformers, I'd appreciate a share.

Now as for using the unit, how long after resin replacement do you start seeing the TDS meter go up? I realize these meters are not the best at measuring TDS (I have one for the house water supply,) but it's relative and that's probably good enough.

I hear "300 gallons" almost everywhere for the DIC-20 and doing the math, that isn't a lot of rinses figuring as low as five minutes per. At 2gpm from the pressure washer times five comes to 10 gal/rinse in round numbers, based on that "300 gallon" life. End result = 30 rinses.

Obviously, folks are getting a good bit more out of one batch of canisters so I figured I'd give it a try and ordered one. The plan is wash and rinse on supply then, switch the pw input to the DIC-20 and only do the final rinse with DI water.



James: I would bet that most of the people who frequent this section have similar neighbors with similar opinions. <grin> Who cares, right?

We can't help it if washing, drying, waxing, etc., are therapeutic. It is what it is... :-)
They used to have a website but it seems they've moved all their store over to Facebook since the last time I purchased resins.

The time your filters last depends directly on how high the TDS content of the incoming water is. The lower the longer it will last and vice versa.

I've also upgraded my cr spotless to a downtube setup and gets rid of the cartridges so the blue tanks hold more DI resin and they filter more water before the PPM rises.

Check out www.dirinse.com

They have the newer more efficient units as well as the downtubes for the CR spotless. Also have 1 cu ft bags of DI resin for 215$. This will fill a single DI-20 filter 5 times.

DI isn't cheap, but it's not terrible either. The resins are the only cost after the purchase of the unit.

You really only need to do the final rinse with the DI water. Don't use it for the whole wash and you should have no problem getting a season out of the canisters with a fresh batch of resins in them.
CRSpotless_Water_Chart.jpg


downtubes.jpg
 

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I make 100s of gallons of RODI water for my fish tanks. It's great for a final rinse after
washing the car!
 

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Well, yeah but TDS meters generally read higher than the hardness value. A TDS of 17 is pretty damn pure and not hard in the least.
Oh I hear what you’re saying. A TDS of 17 doesn’t imply any “purity”, it only implies the current across the ions measures out at a net of 17. That has no relation to purity, only the net current measured across the sample.

A low TDS from a meter doesn’t account for toxic silicates, which can be tough on the body or paint.

Also, TDS meters can’t help you monitor how effective your softening is, since that’s just a process of exchanging ions.
 

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Mr. Met

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I make 100s of gallons of RODI water for my fish tanks. It's great for a final rinse after
washing the car!
I was going to say the same thing. Our water in NYC is pretty good, around 30 tds, but I need 0 tds for my saltwater tank. RODI removes everything. With the ceramic coating and 0 tds water, I have never dried the car after washing it.
 
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kilobravo

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Sorry I put the Spotless Rinse topic in the main forum guys...duh.

Update: Despite raving about the CR Spotless DIC-20, I was still very skeptical about letting a vehicle air dry in direct sunlight without water spots.

So yesterday, I decided to test the claim and I gave it a big target, an F250. Washed it normally, rinsed, then connected the DIC-20, lowered the PW pressure to 600, and rinsed off the rinse water.

I went inside for some lunch and when I came out, the truck was completely dry and I could not FIND a spot! Not even on the glass! It definitely works.
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