Creep assist/mode?

[jasonstang]

I noticed that this feature makes it difficult to inch forward, whether its to move through traffic, a drive through, or just to park in a garage and need to inch up. At least in my experience the engine revs to about 1100rpm, which causes the car to lunge forward, more than it would if I were feathering the clutch. Speaking of feathering the clutch, I'm concerned about premature clutch wear due to this feature. If I'm inching up during any situation that requires it, and I let the clutch out slightly then push it back in, the engine revs. This would effectively be burning the clutch a little every time. I know its slight and not as damaging as doing a burnout, but over enough time it will decrease the life of the clutch.

I wish the feature could be turned off. If someone knows a way, I'd like to know.

The extra wear is so little it's negligent.

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[HoosierDaddy]

But I'll make sure to check with you next time I have a question so I don't appear "lazy." Is that acceptable?

No, its not acceptable. Its lazy to rely on him to tell you you're lazy.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Am I the only one who avoids this method completely? When I was learning manual I stalled so many times trying to "creep". I finally got it with my GTI where I could do the clutch only method even up a hill, but I avoided it. When I was teaching myself how to drive stick, I came across a video that explained why this is a poor technique for new drivers (for experienced drivers, more power to ya) and it stuck with me. If my clutch is coming out for any reason, I give it throttle, just as a precaution to stop from stalling.

In normal driving you should probably be shooting for "least amount of throttle that avoids stalling", which may or may not be none at all. Clutch wear is a function of how much load is passing through the clutch and on the rpm difference between the flywheel and the clutch disc itself. Minimizing those factors (either one individually or both) extends clutch life. Get into the throttle as much as you need for the rest of your 1st gear acceleration after the clutch is all the way engaged.

You do not owe the driver behind you any harder of a launch than that when the light turns green.

The bite point is very vague in these cars anyway, I wouldn't be comfortable doing this even if it was something I did before. I have a Steeda clutch spring on the way and hopefully that helps with the clutch feel a bit.

The 'bite point' tends to feel a bit vague with any hydraulically operated clutch. Some 'feel' is lost in the fluid and its fittings and smaller passages. But you can get used to it enough to use little or no throttle to get the car rolling.


Norm

 

[jasonstang]

In normal driving you should probably be shooting for "least amount of throttle that avoids stalling", which may or may not be none at all. Clutch wear is a function of how much load is passing through the clutch and on the rpm difference between the flywheel and the clutch disc itself. Minimizing those factors (either one individually or both) extends clutch life. Get into the throttle as much as you need for the rest of your 1st gear acceleration after the clutch is all the way engaged.

You do not owe the driver behind you any harder of a launch than that when the light turns green.

Depends on how fast one gets out of the hole. For normal driving 1200rpm moving off the line with such a big engine is plenty.
Fully engage clutch as early as possible without stalling the engine and then give it the beans if one wants to.

 

[jasonstang]

Last night while sitting in the local Sonic Drive-In I noticed that I had a nice ~600 RPM idle... until I pushed the clutch pedal in, which shot the idle up to ~950 RPM. There's no way the transmission has that much drag on it. That's a monster amount of bearing preload if so. My only conclusion was the clutch sensors bump the idle up.

pair this with the rev-hang and this gets more annoying every day. Hill assist was the first thing to go. I turned that off before I'd ever moved the car an inch.

Ford really needs to add a toggle option for "Knows how to drive stick" to turn the nanny crap off.

I actually prefer the nannies which make my shifts much smoother than driving a car that do not. No need to pre-gas before letting out the clutch, no more clunking in the drivetrain.

 

[TexasRebel]

I actually prefer the nannies which make my shifts much smoother than driving a car that do not. No need to pre-gas before letting out the clutch, no more clunking in the drivetrain.

I guess it depends on the driver and how long they've driven a stick that had a cable operated throttle. The nannies make driving much more clunky because on top of the computer giving throttle, so am I.

 

[jasonstang]

I guess it depends on the driver and how long they've driven a stick that had a cable operated throttle. The nannies make driving much more clunky because on top of the computer giving throttle, so am I.

You just gotta change your habit a bit for the new technology grandpa.

 

[sp13]

I had noticed that my revs used to increase if I eased off the clutch from a full stop, but for the past few days, whatever that "feature" was, has stopped working. Now, my revs decrease if I ease off the clutch from a full stop. Something's going on, but the dealer said everything's normal.

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