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Crank Balancer snapped off (Whipple 2.9)

Epiphany

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I like to disassemble things.
I’ve heard that the bolts sometimes come loose, if that happens the torque would definitely be less than the recommended spec
Trying to torque a fastener that was previously installed with thread locker, that cured, will give you an inaccurate reading. You have to remove the fastener as well as the cured thread locker residing in the threads, then reinstall the fastener (with fresh thread locker applied if you so choose) and torque into place.
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80FoxCoupe

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Makes a lot of sense. Under the gt500 section they have a cutout crank showing the net effect .They probably rely on extra stiffness to stop crack propagation near flange seat.
Does it work ?
Also, the torque applied to the hub is greater with the stud vs bolt.
 
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Trying to torque a fastener that was previously installed with thread locker, that cured, will give you an inaccurate reading. You have to remove the fastener as well as the cured thread locker residing in the threads, then reinstall the fastener (with fresh thread locker applied if you so choose) and torque into place.
I know, but you can still see if it moves the bolt or not, if it does, it means it got loose. If it would’ve gotten loose, I would’ve done that, remove the bolt, clean it up and than reinstall
 

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So I have a 2015 Mustang Gt with 30k miles, with a Whipple gen2 2.9 on a 10 rib kit with Ati balancer with arp bolt. I used red loctite on the bolt and only used a torque wrench to seat it and torque it to 120ft/lbs. I even checked it recently and the balancer was still fully seat and torqued to 120ft/lbs. So the 25th I went wot throttle and at 7600rpm the crank snout broke. Engine shut down by itself and it was quite a noise it made.
Wondering to how many has this happen with forced induction?

Would this happen to a turbo setup?
And where can I get a gen2 longblock? They’re out of stock
This is why I stress turbos. Odds of this happening with turbos is very very very slim.
You put a belt on crank with a performance tensioner and odds of snout breaking for sure doubles the odds if not more over turbos. Especially if you are adding an extra pulley for blower. Increases the stress of course on the snout.
To actually build a setup that will last is really stupid money these days. Ask me how I know.
I am not talking about a FI setup, injectors and a fuel setup. The whole package again, IS JUST STUPID MONEY.
The list of shit in a complete whole package will put most people on welfare. :facepalm: 6-700 HP and leave it alone. Those 1000+ cars on jack stands are not that fast.:cwl:
 

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I looked for a link to snout break on turbo but can’t find. Do u perhaps have a link ? Thx
That is because it rarely happens. And if it does it was most likely a bad install with the damper pulley. TURBOSSSSSS nuff said. Get rid of the belt and free up more power because your engine won't have to be using more HP on a belt to get the power you want. :like:
 

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-700 HP and leave it alone. Those 1000+ cars on jack stands are not that fast.
Absolutely. Folks who have never had a 650 - 700 whp car don't understand just how fast, on public roads, these cars are.

Plus the drive train overall can survive at this HP level.
 

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I believe both dampers are a bit heavier, and also move some of that extra weight further forward.
Every ATI/I.W damper I've tried since 2007, has been at least 6-10oz heavier over the stock dampers.
I've got both sitting here of you want me to weigh them.
 

80FoxCoupe

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This is why I stress turbos. Odds of this happening with turbos is very very very slim.
You put a belt on crank with a performance tensioner and odds of snout breaking for sure doubles the odds if not more over turbos. Especially if you are adding an extra pulley for blower. Increases the stress of course on the snout.
To actually build a setup that will last is really stupid money these days. Ask me how I know.
I am not talking about a FI setup, injectors and a fuel setup. The whole package again, IS JUST STUPID MONEY.
The list of shit in a complete whole package will put most people on welfare. :facepalm: 6-700 HP and leave it alone. Those 1000+ cars on jack stands are not that fast.:cwl:
If you can afford a $10k turbo kit, supporting mods, a daily driver vehicle etc, you can afford another engine.
 

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Makes a lot of sense. Under the gt500 section they have a cutout crank showing the net effect .They probably rely on extra stiffness to stop crack propagation near flange seat.
Does it work ?

The Cobra guys were breaking the snout off those forged Kellogg cranks back in the day from running belts entirely too tight.

They started drilling out the snout to add a ARP stud and that fixed most problems with snapping the nose off.

I bought a used 4.6 Kellogg crank that was drilled for the ARP stud and been using it since 2012.

It's a manual shifting at 7600. I beat the ch!t out of that car and never had any issues.

As for installing the ARP/IW dampers, I was going to install a IW on my 2018 and the directions sed to measure the snout and hone the damper collar for the proper clearance so it would seat properly.
 

80FoxCoupe

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This ATI has no AC belt option but here are the weights on what I had.

20220101_115248.jpg


20220101_115209.jpg
Nice!

Ati and ati specific procharger stg2 drive pulley is 4.5lbs lighter than oem balancer and procharger stg2 camlock drive pulley.
 

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Cant be that hard of a concept for some thick skulls to get it thru their head. Turbos with untouched balancers had had broken snouts. Even Aldo from Aldowelds who sees more turbos in coyotes than most in here combined has said this is a “normal” thing on coyotes, cracked or broken snouts.
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