Coilover time! Pedders Extreme!?

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes & Chassis' started by PtheGman, Jun 16, 2019.

  1. Roadway 5.0

    Roadway 5.0 Strassejager

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    If canyon and mountain roads with a lower stance are your focus, then stick with twin tube dampers and a moderate spring rate. Koni/Steeda dampers with a spring rate of around 200F/800R is great; step up a bit more if you’re daring (I run 225F/880R).

    I drive a few mountain roads here and there, and the magic elixir is less than more.
     
  2. Bluemustang

    Bluemustang Well-Known Member

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    I see no reason the SP083s are too high a spring rate. Track cars run much much higher rates after all. SP083 rates are right around 1.6hz which is still street car levels. The 250F/980R rates give a good, proper "sports car" feel. I drive over quite a few uneven surfaces around here, as the roads aren't very good and I have no problems with traction. Now if I were driving in downtown Washington, D.C. for example no it wouldn't be good, but then again if I were doing that constantly I wouldn't even drive a Mustang, let alone be modifying it.

    I am also a fan of the monotube design, which the Ford Performance dampers are. The long awaited Bilsteins are also monotube which I find interesting. Seems to me usually the higher end dampers, like you might find in coilovers or track setups, also use the monotube design. More consistent, better damping vs. twin tube.
     
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  3. OP
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    PtheGman

    PtheGman Active Member

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    I probably won't be doing the bearings any time soon. I could still spend the money on another part for now though.
    -Paul
     
  4. OP
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    PtheGman

    PtheGman Active Member

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    Thank you for all for your input. I still feel like I should go with the Ford performance track pack. I have always been a bit uneasy who t modifying this car, I feel like going with ford parts, especially when they make a kit, is in my interest. It gets me where I want, above PP specs. It's a manufacturer part and carries the name. Plenty of other aftermarket stuff will go on my car, I think I want this to be a Ford part.

    I still may change my mind
     
  5. Bluemustang

    Bluemustang Well-Known Member

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    I met a new buddy recently who has the Ford Performance track pack (no other suspension mods) and have driven his car. It rides very nice and handles really good. It's a great kit.
    Also, just as some background, I had the springs and dampers out of the Ford Performance track pack on my car. For over a year... Basically the same setup except BMR sway bars instead of Ford Performance ones. So I'm well aware of how it feels and responds. I switched out the springs for the BMR SP083.

    Just trying to give you some info to make your decision. Good luck with whatever route you choose.
     
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  6. OP
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    PtheGman

    PtheGman Active Member

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    Thanks man, something in me is resisting going with anything but factory parts, another part of me doesnt care lol. If I could find the BMR springs in stock i think that this would be a done deal at this point.

    Does anyone have a lineup on these parts, in stock currently? These springs in particular, the BMR SP083, seem to be the hard part to find. I think im going to try and get this stuff ordered this week and hopefully next week a local shop can install. Thanks again!

    on a secondary but related note, I think im going to forego a CAI, it doesnt seem worth it to me with the limitied gains and the $$/HP breakdown isnt very good. I am however strongly considering a tune, as the 91 tune from bullydog sucks bullyballs. The gains from just a tune seem to be in the same ballpark as with a CAI lol.

    Paul
     
  7. BmacIL

    BmacIL Enginerd

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    http://m.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1578
     
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  8. jbird60

    jbird60 Well-Known Member

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    Can confirm, this setup is quite pleasant and even performs well on track. Personally, I'd only go to coilovers if I was building a track-only car, and even then I'd only go with a stupid-expensive-yet-stupid-good set (Ohlins, RideTech, JRi, Penske).
     
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  9. Bluemustang

    Bluemustang Well-Known Member

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    No problem! Going with the factory FP track kit is an easy, bolt-on, no extra engineering required suspension setup. And of course I found out the hard way just how tough figuring out suspension is. But that doesn't mean that you can't source different parts and make it work and improve upon it. Fortunately, many members on this forum have done their homework. So you don't have to go through what I did when the S550 chassis just came out.

    In summary: the FP track kit is great. But you can improve upon it.
     
  10. Bluemustang

    Bluemustang Well-Known Member

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    @PtheGman - do you have access to 93 octane in your area? Or E85/flex fuel? If so, I would highly recommend either of those. A high octane fuel and tune will surely wake that beast up. I expect you will see a little gain from 91 but it might leave you somewhat disappointed. I'm lucky in my area that I have good quality 93 everywhere and lots of stations that offer E85.
     
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  11. OP
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    PtheGman

    PtheGman Active Member

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    Probably not, there are exactly 1 stations in tucson that offer e85 I believe, at an inflated rate if I remember correctly....I would absolutely settle for a flex fuel tune but again, availability is questionable currently, unless of course someone knows a station in north tucson that has a steady supply of both. The last thing I want is to have to change tunes on a hot day because 93, e85 or e54 are not available. Ideally I would go for a flexfuel tune, as it has an octane gain, (Albeit minor) over 91 and offers the opportunity for better tuning that dino based magic go juice. Anyone Know of a FF station in my area?

    -Paul

    Edit: Im looking at the BMR sways on American Muscle, why would I go with just the front for the price when I can have both front and rear at a discount? Is the BMR rear too stiff or just doesnt work dynamically with the rest of the setup? Thanks!
     
  12. BmacIL

    BmacIL Enginerd

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    The setup will generally work overall better with a stock PP rear bar or something of similar stiffness, and a heavier front bar. There's a good amount of discussion & theory behind why it works better that way, but it definitely does. Kelly will also recommend a front-only bar upgrade with these springs.
     
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  13. OP
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    PtheGman

    PtheGman Active Member

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    So i may be holding off on the larger more expensive (to install) suspension parts and be heading towards some braces for now. A few reasons, Im going on vacation for the 4th and Id like to save a bit of money, second, my Girlfriends driveway is uneven, horrible and dirt and long. I really need to think about a 1 inch drop versus a quarter mile walk and parking on a street in a podunk town....

    This thread has a ton of good information in it! Since we are still on the suspension and chassis topic, im jacking my own thread, or enhancing it, or both.

    Anyone have a verdict on the Cradle lockout, front strut brace and K braces (maybe its an H) I feel like those might better suit me before a drop and full suspension overhaul. I have had really good luck in the past with braces and improvements without much unwanted NVH.

    -Paul
     
  14. BmacIL

    BmacIL Enginerd

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    Cradle lockout is a must do!
     
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  15. Bluemustang

    Bluemustang Well-Known Member

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    Yeah. The CB005 cradle lockout will certainly benefit you. If you're going to hold off on lowering suspension mods for now, I'd do CB005 and strut tower/K braces. If you wanted to you could even do the CB006 also to tighten up the front end even more. Those pieces plus a more aggressive alignment might achieve what you're looking for. The stock car is pretty capable once you remove some of the deflection in the suspension arms and rear subframe.

    Edit: What @BmacIL said - the cradle lockout is an absolute must. Biggest weakness of the car IMO.

    NVH from the cradle lockout is extremely minimal.
     
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  16. strengthrehab

    strengthrehab Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to test the ability of the Pedders rear shocks to sustain a heavy ass spring (1300lb/in) to better pair with the 400lb/in front setup. If they die, I'll upgrade to JRZ rear dampers.

    My car is about 90-95% track car, though.
     
  17. OP
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    PtheGman

    PtheGman Active Member

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    So I'm really intrigued, looking at the bmp parts lineup here and I'm curious what the cb007 and cb763 may offer in conjunction with the cb006. I have the cb0006 and jacking rails in my cart already. Curious about cb762 as well. Do these parts conflict or could I add them all lol? Honestly thinking about bumper braces as well. As previously stated 8ve had very good luck in the past with all sorts of braces on different applications. I'm also strongly considering mm007 motor mounts to take out some drivetrain slop as well. I'll be cons8dering these all in place of coilover, dampers or springs.

    Thanks again!

    -paul
     
  18. BmacIL

    BmacIL Enginerd

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    I'd forgo most of the bracing in favor of a proper suspension setup. Get the foundation right first. The CB006 and CB007 conflict with each other, as well. The CB005 is what you want, and the CB763 can be added later if you want a bit more subframe mounting stiffness. With what you currently have, I'd hold off on that and just do the CB005 with springs & dampers. The front-end bracing that is included in the performance package is something I'd recommend, and is inexpensive. The parts list for that is in the thread below:
    https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ion-lower-k-brace-install-guide.100800/unread

    As for the motor mounts, I would not bother unless this is a race car, or you happen love a lot more noise and vibration. The bumper brace also has no real place on a street car.
     
  19. Demon Coyote

    Demon Coyote Well-Known Member

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    Very nice, It's definitely on my list of next mods to do.
     
  20. OP
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    PtheGman

    PtheGman Active Member

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    What about any of the bushing kits, particularly the diff mounts/kit?
     
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