Clunking In Rear after Coilover Install

[JStang15]

Installed Pedders coilovers this past weekend and just started hearing a clunking/rattling sound from the driver side rear this morning on my way to work. It's most loud or noticeable when going over small bumps at low speeds. Seems to go away (or at least get much more quiet) once up to speed. The noise was not there for the past two days after install, so my guess is something loosened up and is shaking around back there. I'll be checking it out later today but any recommendations for things to look for specifically?

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[SoulTea]

Installed Pedders coilovers this past weekend and just started hearing a clunking/rattling sound from the driver side rear this morning on my way to work. It's most loud or noticeable when going over small bumps at low speeds. Seems to go away (or at least get much more quiet) once up to speed. The noise was not there for the past two days after install, so my guess is something loosened up and is shaking around back there. I'll be checking it out later today but any recommendations for things to look for specifically?

I have them too and mine did it for quite a while from summer last year when they were put on up until November when I put it away for winter. I totally forgot about it and it hasn't done it at all this year.

Check all the adjusting/locking rings and make sure they are tight and snug because if they are loose the shock could bounce around. Check all the bolts especially the shock mount ones. It's weird that it's gone now from mine even though I didn't get around to checking it out. I will soon anyways.

 

[EFI]

Check all connections, especially the mounting points of the shock to the body and control arm.

 

[Nagare]

Mine was the shock mounts the first time I changed my suspension.

 

[JStang15]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Have a feeling it's the shock mounts like you all suggested.

 

[wildcatgoal]

Sway bar end links - torque them properly. Upper nut on the shock - torque it properly.

 

[bananafonez]

Check all nuts and bolts, mine was the sway bar endlink that connects to the coilover. Shock lock sleeve was also loose.

 

[Houston Kid]

Sway bar end links - torque them properly. Upper nut on the shock - torque it properly.

This for sure. Friend of mine had that issue. It took us a bit to figure it out but we did. Upper link on the sway bar end links.

 

[Burkey]

The usual suspect on the Pedders is the lock rings. You won’t be the first to find that they were either loose (ish)from the factory or have come loose. Start there but check all the other stuff mentioned by others also. Using your bare hands, you’ll struggle to exert enough force on the locking tool they supply. I used a nylon hammer to give them that bit extra.
(BC/AirLift/Pedders all the same)

 

[RogerS59]

The usual suspect on the Pedders is the lock rings. You won’t be the first to find that they were either loose (ish)from the factory or have come loose. Start there but check all the other stuff mentioned by others also. Using your bare hands, you’ll struggle to exert enough force on the locking tool they supply. I used a nylon hammer to give them that bit extra.
(BC/AirLift/Pedders all the same)

A +1 here on the lock rings.

Just had the same rattle for a couple of days...one of the rings had wound up the shocker about an inch

Knew I should of checked them when I was fitting them

 

[kent0464]

The usual suspect on the Pedders is the lock rings. You won’t be the first to find that they were either loose (ish)from the factory or have come loose. Start there but check all the other stuff mentioned by others also. Using your bare hands, you’ll struggle to exert enough force on the locking tool they supply. I used a nylon hammer to give them that bit extra.
(BC/AirLift/Pedders all the same)

This is why.
It’s the design, you have the big adjustable aluminum collar sitting on top of the spring in the rear, that fits right against the car body, so every bump that unloads one of those is going to create a rattle or clunk. If you did the install yourself then you noticed the thick rubber spring isolators at the top and bottom of your OEM spring to prevent those noises.
The only fix for it is possibly a rubber pad on top of the aluminum collar. Or like me since I know what it is, just ignore it.

 

[Burkey]

This is why.
It’s the design, you have the big adjustable aluminum collar sitting on top of the spring in the rear, that fits right against the car body, so every bump that unloads one of those is going to create a rattle or clunk. If you did the install yourself then you noticed the thick rubber spring isolators at the top and bottom of your OEM spring to prevent those noises.
The only fix for it is possibly a rubber pad on top of the aluminum collar. Or like me since I know what it is, just ignore it.

Erm... There should be NO noise coming from the suspension.
The rubber that you remove from the top of the spring is really not much (if any) thicker than the rubber on the BC unit. It might look thicker, but if you actually look at the minimum distance between the spring coil and the chassis, it’s basically the same.
Have you actually tried to tighten the lockrings? When I say “Loose” I don’t mean visibly loose. I mean “touching each other and appear to be tight but actually aren’t as tight as they should be”
I know of plenty of cars getting around on BC/Pedders/AirLift without clunks and rattles, so if it was inherent in the design, they’d all suffer from it would they not?
The other main player for clunks is loose drop links for the swaybars, although this tends to happen more on cars with aftermarket sways once the powdercoat has a chance to wear down a little, allowing that tiny amount of slop at the joint.

 

[kent0464]

Erm... There should be NO noise coming from the suspension.
The rubber that you remove from the top of the spring is really not much (if any) thicker than the rubber on the BC unit. It might look thicker, but if you actually look at the minimum distance between the spring coil and the chassis, it’s basically the same.
Have you actually tried to tighten the lockrings? When I say “Loose” I don’t mean visibly loose. I mean “touching each other and appear to be tight but actually aren’t as tight as they should be”
I know of plenty of cars getting around on BC/Pedders/AirLift without clunks and rattles, so if it was inherent in the design, they’d all suffer from it would they not?
The other main player for clunks is loose drop links for the swaybars, although this tends to happen more on cars with aftermarket sways once the powdercoat has a chance to wear down a little, allowing that tiny amount of slop at the joint.

That I do know, but most of those I know running that type of rear coilover, have them adjusted all the way down. If you e ever put these in then you know the stock springs have to be worked/pried on to get out but this type of rear coil over can simply be set in with one hand so adjusted down they will clunk over bumps

 

[RogerS59]

This is why.
It’s the design, you have the big adjustable aluminum collar sitting on top of the spring in the rear, that fits right against the car body, so every bump that unloads one of those is going to create a rattle or clunk. If you did the install yourself then you noticed the thick rubber spring isolators at the top and bottom of your OEM spring to prevent those noises.
The only fix for it is possibly a rubber pad on top of the aluminum collar. Or like me since I know what it is, just ignore it.

it was the collar on the shock not the spring pedestal

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