Steeda rattle/clunking after install

[Ggradtech]

I just replaced my base GT with Steeda Progressive lowering springs and the Steeda Pro Performance Fixed struts/shocks. I feel I installed it all correctly and even double checked for tightness. I have an issue where I can hear a light rattle or clunk/clicking noise when going over certain bumps or road imperfections. I cant actually feel it tgrough the wheel, but its noticeable. Any idea what it may be? I reused the upper strut mounts. Maybe the inferior upper strut mounts that come on a base GT need to be replaced with ones from an OEM PP car? My car only has 3500 miles on it. Thanks!

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[SteedaTech]

I just replaced my base GT with Steeda Progressive lowering springs and the Steeda Pro Performance Fixed struts/shocks. I feel I installed it all correctly and even double checked for tightness. I have an issue where I can hear a light rattle or clunk/clicking noise when going over certain bumps or road imperfections. I cant actually feel it tgrough the wheel, but its noticeable. Any idea what it may be? I reused the upper strut mounts. Maybe the inferior upper strut mounts that come on a base GT need to be replaced with ones from an OEM PP car? My car only has 3500 miles on it. Thanks!

Re-check your upper center strut nut make sure it is torqued to 74 ft/lbs

Or Swaybar endlinks torque 85 ft/lbs

That's usually the issue. pm your contact info and I will contact you, to go over the install.

Thanks,

Mike D

 

[Ggradtech]

Mike,
I had the center strut nuts hit with an impact gun at 90lbs. My initial ride home from the shop makes me think it is still present. Maybe not as bad, but I think it is still making some chatter. Sway bar nuts were definately tight. I checked those yesterday.

 

[jbailer]

Did you check the shock rod nuts also?

 

[Ggradtech]

Yes. Mike from Steeda mentioned that if you dont "torque" them down with an impact gun, you can get the rattle. I had a shop do this and it still persists. I may need to remove both front struts, reseat them and try again. Im also wondering if it would be a good idea to replace the upper shock mounts at the same time. I read somewhere that they are a 1 time use part. Once you remove them, you are supposed to put new ones in. Seems like a waste to do this with only 3500 miles on the car.

 

[highvoltage]

Is the spring installed at the proper rotation point on the perch? This stuff will happen frequently just from missing one simple little thing. It's rarely a product issue.

 

[jbailer]

Yes. Mike from Steeda mentioned that if you dont "torque" them down with an impact gun, you can get the rattle. I had a shop do this and it still persists. I may need to remove both front struts, reseat them and try again. Im also wondering if it would be a good idea to replace the upper shock mounts at the same time. I read somewhere that they are a 1 time use part. Once you remove them, you are supposed to put new ones in. Seems like a waste to do this with only 3500 miles on the car.

Sorry, I meant the shocks in the rear. It sounded like you had the shop check the strut rod nuts (front) I was wondering if you re-checked the rear as well. It could exhibit the same symptom although it's much more common on the struts because of the tension being in the spring and it's torqued quite a bit more. The shock rod nut (rear) is only torqued to 22 lb ft.

 

[Ggradtech]

I tightened the rears and used loctite, but not torqued to 22lbs. Just what felt pretty tight. I'm guessing it was at least 22 though. The rears seemed to tighten and not "spin" like the front nuts did when I performed the initial install last week.

 

[jbailer]

I tightened the rears and used loctite, but not torqued to 22lbs. Just what felt pretty tight. I'm guessing it was at least 22 though. The rears seemed to tighten and not "spin" like the front nuts did when I performed the initial install last week.

Maybe that's it? The shock rod absolutely should have been turning if you were close to 22 lb ft, at least mine always do. This is from the Helm service manual:

NOTE: Use the hex-holding feature to prevent the shock absorber rod from turning while installing the shock absorber rod nut.

Install the new rear shock absorber rod nut.
Torque : 22 lb.ft (30 Nm)​

 

[Ggradtech]

Thanks JB. Ill give that a shot. Ill remove the rears, put each one in a bench vise, and torque them better with a hex head device.

 

[K-Roll302]

I've been having the same problem for well over a month now! A clunking rattle over certain bumps and imperfections. I've done the following:

1. Torqued the strut tower/center but bolts and nuts to spec
2. Replaced my passenger side end link and torqued to spec (not sure if suspension needed to be "loaded" for installation)

I just haven't a clue at this point. But I can't keep throwing money at this problem. I haven't replaced the strut tower mounts but I can't fathom why it's only happen on one side and not both.

 

[Ggradtech]

I've been having the same problem for well over a month now! A clunking rattle over certain bumps and imperfections. I've done the following:

1. Torqued the strut tower/center but bolts and nuts to spec
2. Replaced my passenger side end link and torqued to spec (not sure if suspension needed to be "loaded" for installation)

I just haven't a clue at this point. But I can't keep throwing money at this problem. I haven't replaced the strut tower mounts but I can't fathom why it's only happen on one side and not both.

Ive torqued the front and rear shock/strut center nuts as well. Nothing has helped. Im about to try putting my OEM Shocks/struts back on if I cant get this fixed. Ill give it one more go. Ill disassemble the entire Steeda front strut assemblies tomorrow night. If this doesnt fix the problem Ill put the OEM struts/shocks back on I guess.

 

[K-Roll302]

Ive torqued the front and rear shock/strut center nuts as well. Nothing has helped. Im about to try putting my OEM Shocks/struts back on if I cant get this fixed. Ill give it one more go. Ill disassemble the entire Steeda front strut assemblies tomorrow night. If this doesnt fix the problem Ill put the OEM struts/shocks back on I guess.

I've got the same springs but used my EB/PP struts and shocks and mounts. I just don't have the time or funds to take it to a shop or dealer and have them do anything about it. I'm feeling too tired and defeated to remove the strut and go over the whole process again, as I've been under the car almost 10 times in the last 3 weeks trying to figure this out; 2 of those times was in the last 4 hours even.

I'm very much depressed about this and could use a miracle for once. :(

 

[SteedaTech]

I just replaced my base GT with Steeda Progressive lowering springs and the Steeda Pro Performance Fixed struts/shocks. I feel I installed it all correctly and even double checked for tightness. I have an issue where I can hear a light rattle or clunk/clicking noise when going over certain bumps or road imperfections. I cant actually feel it tgrough the wheel, but its noticeable. Any idea what it may be? I reused the upper strut mounts. Maybe the inferior upper strut mounts that come on a base GT need to be replaced with ones from an OEM PP car? My car only has 3500 miles on it. Thanks!

I have a fix for you, if your spring isolators got mis aligned when you assembled
Strut spring combo it will make noise. I will send you two more isolators on Monday and that should correct your problem. Furthermore, they install in five minutes nothing needs to be taken apart.

Steeda Tech

 

[GDP]

I've got the same springs but used my EB/PP struts and shocks and mounts. I just don't have the time or funds to take it to a shop or dealer and have them do anything about it. I'm feeling too tired and defeated to remove the strut and go over the whole process again, as I've been under the car almost 10 times in the last 3 weeks trying to figure this out; 2 of those times was in the last 4 hours even.

I'm very much depressed about this and could use a miracle for once. :(

Had the same problem from my front (non-steeda springs) when going over speed bumps where I would hear a clunky springy noise and isolators fixed it for me. So if that is what youre hearing that should fix it. Real quick easy install with even just a crappy tire change jack.

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