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Thanks - good to know. It's been a couple years since I lowered it but I think it's around 2 inches or so in the rear. https://photos.app.goo.gl/XKZKxqXr4Kakzoc38

So on my way home today I decided to take a different route I don't normally take to try to avoid some traffic. I ended up nailing a monster pothole that I didn't see in time. I immediately started hearing a loud rattle/banging from the rear whenever going over uneven road. Got the car home and...

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Have a feeling it's the shock mounts like you all suggested.

Installed Pedders coilovers this past weekend and just started hearing a clunking/rattling sound from the driver side rear this morning on my way to work. It's most loud or noticeable when going over small bumps at low speeds. Seems to go away (or at least get much more quiet) once up to speed...

Ha I definitely hear you about the potholes here. I plan on getting coilovers very soon and I'm a little worried about how terrible our roads are right now. As for the intercooler, an upgraded one does make a big difference during the warmer months. I went with the Levels, which is probably a...

Are you sure it's not P04DB? P04DB is something to do with the PCV system and is pretty common after installing a catch can.

Just wanted to chime in and say I had this same leak happen. Took the car out yesterday for some pretty hard driving and woke up this morning to find a few oil spots on the driveway. Got under the car and found the sensor wasn't tightened down at all and I could turn it freely by hand! There was...

For the stud: https://www.oemfordpart.com/oem-parts/ford-converter-stud-w705374s901 For the nut: https://www.oemfordpart.com/oem-parts/ford-front-pipe-nut-w714265s441 Same thing happened to me when switching my downpipe. The two nut method didn't work for me when trying to remove the stud. The...

I agree that you want to monitor ignition corrections. Generally speaking, positive is good and negative is bad. Seeing a little bit of negative is completely normal every once in a while under part throttle, but you want to watch for negative corrections under WOT. Usually what you'd want to...

The Ford Performance performance pack is different from the factory performance package. The factory performance package does not include a different airbox or intake.

Yes he posted videos of it on FB back in February and called it "perps and berbs." Not sure if he still plans on offering it or if he scrapped the idea. Hope he offers it at some point because it sounded damn good IMO.

Has anyone had issues with false knock on their EBM? I have a feeling my knock sensors are picking up something that's not really knock. There's a few reasons I'm thinking this. My Accessport will show negative corrections when lightly revving in neutral. The corrections will happen in any...

Here's a video that shows intake manifold removal: [ame] It's pretty easy to do. I installed the updated separator last year and it was the first time I removed the manifold. Took me maybe an hour and that was really taking my time.

US ecoboosts have a MAP sensor. I honestly don't know much about the EU spec ecoboosts but I'd imagine they also have a MAP sensor. Can you see the MAP sensor on your intake manifold?

Ordered mine from Adam's site.

I've got the DV+ installed and it does not bleed while cruising anymore. The ECU of course still will tell it to open, but my understanding is that the additional spring in the DV+ prevents it from opening in that situation...

I have the UPR dual valve CC and the clean side CC, and my tips are always black as well. The dual valve CC is great, but I wouldn't spend any money on the clean side can. I haven't had any oil in mine since it was installed almost a year ago, and it causes a CEL.

I had a similar issue with one of the studs on the turbo when changing my downpipe. I HIGHLY recommend getting some PB Blaster and liberally spraying it on the studs/nuts. You can spray it, let it sit for 5-10 minutes and then spray again. Whatever you do, don't do what I did, and force the nuts...

FWIW, my car has a build date in early May 2015, and my engine was built March 27th in Cleveland.

It is the bypass valve. It seems common on our cars. Not sure why it does it but here is another thread about it: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22921