Changing brake pads, have questions

[Blwnsmoke]

So I purchased the Powerstop Z26 front and rear brake pads. I'm so tired of the brake dust and since I don't track the car, wanted to change them out.

I have never changed pads before (watched it but never done it) and after watching youtube videos, seems pretty straight forward.

Fronts, tap 2 pins out, remove 2 60mm bolts, remove pads, use caliper spread press tool, insert new pads, reinstall.

However after watching a video of the rear, it included replacing the rotors. I believe because of that, you had to remove the emergency brake cable to access the bolt to remove the rear rotor.

In watching the video, they removed the rear pads out the back of the caliper without removing it. Does that mean that I don't have to remove the caliper to install new pads for the rears? Am I able to get the caliper spreader tool in the rear so I can just insert the pads and then the bracket/pins afterwards?

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

I just finished painting my calipers and had my rims cleaned and double ceramic coated so trying everything I can to keep them clean.

Sponsored

 

[pilotgore]

So I purchased the Powerstop Z26 front and rear brake pads. I'm so tired of the brake dust and since I don't track the car, wanted to change them out.

I have never changed pads before (watched it but never done it) and after watching youtube videos, seems pretty straight forward.

Fronts, tap 2 pins out, remove 2 60mm bolts, remove pads, use caliper spread press tool, insert new pads, reinstall.

However after watching a video of the rear, it included replacing the rotors. I believe because of that, you had to remove the emergency brake cable to access the bolt to remove the rear rotor.

In watching the video, they removed the rear pads out the back of the caliper without removing it. Does that mean that I don't have to remove the caliper to install new pads for the rears? Am I able to get the caliper spreader tool in the rear so I can just insert the pads and then the bracket/pins afterwards?

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

I just finished painting my calipers and had my rims cleaned and double ceramic coated so trying everything I can to keep them clean.

You’ve got the gist of it. For the fronts, I like to use the caliper spreaders before punching the pins out, while the old pads are still in place. I think it makes it easier to evenly push all 6 pistons in at the same time without having to check and make sure your caliper spreader is perfectly contacting all 6 pistons. After that, punch, uninstall pads, and go in reverse.

You’re correct on the rear pads. Leave the caliper in place, Punch the two pins, pull the pads, use the spreader, then reinstall. Super easy.

which spreader are you using? Ratchet style or lisle?

 

[pilotgore]

Also, if you plan to do this at least once more in your lifetime, do yourself a favor and get some caliperfextion studs and extenders from @Epiphany . Best money you’ll ever spend on your mustang besides gasoline! I think a couple thousand gt350 and gt500 owners would agree with me!

 

[Blwnsmoke]

You’ve got the gist of it. For the fronts, I like to use the caliper spreaders before punching the pins out, while the old pads are still in place. I think it makes it easier to evenly push all 6 pistons in at the same time without having to check and make sure your caliper spreader is perfectly contacting all 6 pistons. After that, punch, uninstall pads, and go in reverse.

You’re correct on the rear pads. Leave the caliper in place, Punch the two pins, pull the pads, use the spreader, then reinstall. Super easy.

which spreader are you using? Ratchet style or lisle?

I purchased a ratchet spreader.

I just purchased a quickjack 5000. I plan to start doing my own brake work on all my cars going forward.

Thanks for the help and tips

 

[pilotgore]

I purchased a ratchet spreader.

I just purchased a quickjack 5000. I plan to start doing my own brake work on all my cars going forward.

Thanks for the help and tips

I used the ratchet for a full season before switching to the lisle spreader. Do yourself a favor and get the lisle. SOOOOOOOOOO much better.

 

[datadatum]

I used the ratchet for a full season before switching to the lisle spreader. Do yourself a favor and get the lisle. SOOOOOOOOOO much better.

Nice looking tool! Ordered!

 

[Blwnsmoke]

I used the ratchet for a full season before switching to the lisle spreader. Do yourself a favor and get the lisle. SOOOOOOOOOO much better.

Ordered one, will be here Tuesday.

 

[Gnatsum21]

On my former 2016 EB vert I had to use a special tool and "rotate" the pistons back inside to be able to insert the new brake pads. (Back brakes)
EDIT: nvm, I see its a 350 GT question.. facepalm

 

[brokenblinker]

Can someone explain how you position the lisle style spreader? I have one kind of like it and don't understand how to position it. I ended up doing this last time.

 

[Mustangford289]

So I purchased the Powerstop Z26 front and rear brake pads. I'm so tired of the brake dust and since I don't track the car, wanted to change them out.

I have never changed pads before (watched it but never done it) and after watching youtube videos, seems pretty straight forward.

Fronts, tap 2 pins out, remove 2 60mm bolts, remove pads, use caliper spread press tool, insert new pads, reinstall.

However after watching a video of the rear, it included replacing the rotors. I believe because of that, you had to remove the emergency brake cable to access the bolt to remove the rear rotor.

In watching the video, they removed the rear pads out the back of the caliper without removing it. Does that mean that I don't have to remove the caliper to install new pads for the rears? Am I able to get the caliper spreader tool in the rear so I can just insert the pads and then the bracket/pins afterwards?

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

I just finished painting my calipers and had my rims cleaned and double ceramic coated so trying everything I can to keep them clean.

Replace the 60mm bolts with new 60mm bolts too. They are torque to yield, which means they are stretch bolts.

 

[Mustangford289]

So I purchased the Powerstop Z26 front and rear brake pads. I'm so tired of the brake dust and since I don't track the car, wanted to change them out.

I have never changed pads before (watched it but never done it) and after watching youtube videos, seems pretty straight forward.

Fronts, tap 2 pins out, remove 2 60mm bolts, remove pads, use caliper spread press tool, insert new pads, reinstall.

However after watching a video of the rear, it included replacing the rotors. I believe because of that, you had to remove the emergency brake cable to access the bolt to remove the rear rotor.

In watching the video, they removed the rear pads out the back of the caliper without removing it. Does that mean that I don't have to remove the caliper to install new pads for the rears? Am I able to get the caliper spreader tool in the rear so I can just insert the pads and then the bracket/pins afterwards?

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

I just finished painting my calipers and had my rims cleaned and double ceramic coated so trying everything I can to keep them clean.

Replace the 60mm bolts with new 60mm bolts too. They are torque to yield, which means they are stretch bolts.

 

[pilotgore]

Can someone explain how you position the lisle style spreader? I have one kind of like it and don't understand how to position it. I ended up doing this last time.

Holy cow, you’re going to freak out with the simplicity of the lisle after going through that

The lisle has two plates that expand when you pull the trigger. Each time you pull the trigger, the plates expand by 1/2” or so. So, you’ll stick the plates of the lisle in between the two brake pads (in the exact orientation you show in the picture,) and continually squeeze/release the trigger until the pistons of the caliper have fully retracted into the caliper. I find that usually one side of calipers pistons will go all the way in before the other side starts going in, so don’t be alarmed if that happens. I think once you have the Lisle in hand, it’ll make more sense.

Maybe I should make a video when I rotate back to track pads in a few weeks

 

[brokenblinker]

I'm thinking maybe I got the wrong style and should have got the one with two plates that spread apart. The first is the one I found at O'Reilly's. The second is the one I'm thinking I should have purchased

 

[pilotgore]

I'm thinking maybe I got the wrong style and should have got the one with two plates that spread apart. This is the one I found at O'Reilly's

Sorry, I should have linked it.

This is what you need.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29100-...t=&hvlocphy=9016164&hvtargid=pla-392689279577

 

[galaxy]

Here’s a little trick I’ve been doing all my life. Don’t know why it’s not more popular. I don’t think it works on every car, but it works on these tiny pistons like a champ…

Instead of messing around with all these tools and forcing things into place, just put your drain tube on your bleeder valve like you would if you were going to bleed the brakes. Now crack open the bleeder valve. Now…simply push the pistons in with your fingers. They’ll slide right in almost no resistance. Snug your bleeder valve back down once they’re all pushed in. Piece of cake. No goofy tools. No drama.

And I think it’s a misconception about the big front bolts being torque to yield. They are not. Manual says replace due to the locktite that comes on the bolt, not the torque.

Sponsored