C.Quartz Ceramic Coating Applied

Colleton

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Well, I spent the last two afternoons putting a coat of CarPro's CQ.UK 3.0 on the Mustang. Put the base coat of C.Quartz on yesterday and the top coat of Reload on today. I think it turned out pretty well, but we'll see after it fully cures. It certainly looks shiny and feels slippery. TBH, it looks and feels fantastic.

I had Ceramic Pro installed on my GT350 and was very pleased with that product. I had intended to use it again, but unfortunately you can't just buy it. You can only get it through an installer and I wanted to do this myself, so I went with C.Quartz this time.

CarPro makes a bunch of different products, and it's hard at first to understand what to buy. C.Quartz is the ceramic coating, but what is Reload, Gliss, Forte, or Dlux? Reload and Gliss are the two top coat sealants that CarPro makes to protect the base C.Quartz layer. Reload is a spray on coating that lasts up to 6 months, and Gliss is a wipe on coating that installs the same way the C.Quartz layer is installed and lasts up to 12 months. Forte is a ceramic coating for glass, and Dlux is CarPro's ceramic coating for plastic trim and high temp areas (wheels).

Reload is what came with the C.Quartz package that I bought, so that is what I used. You can buy Reload by the liter bottle, and I'm thinking that it is the product that CarPro wants you to buy and use as the sacrificial layer to maintain the base ceramic coating. To be honest, you could probably just buy Reload by itself and get a big chunk of the protection of a ceramic coating with a lot less effort. You would need to reapply regularly though. Very much like the hybrid-ceramic spray-on stuff you can get from Meguiar's and other companies. Just saying...

I'm going to buy some more Reload to maintain the coating, and some Forte and Dlux to apply to the glass, plastic trim and wheels.

In the end, this was not that hard to do. It just takes time and care to prep the car and get the coating applied correctly. Do some research, watch some videos and save yourself ~ $1,200-$1,300, which is what local detailers wanted to do this job.

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DFB5.0

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Well, I spent the last two afternoons putting a coat of CarPro's CQ.UK 3.0 on the Mustang. Put the base coat of C.Quartz on yesterday and the top coat of Reload on today. I think it turned out pretty well, but we'll see after it fully cures. It certainly looks shiny and feels slippery. TBH, it looks and feels fantastic.

I had Ceramic Pro installed on my GT350 and was very pleased with that product. I had intended to use it again, but unfortunately you can't just buy it. You can only get it through an installer and I wanted to do this myself, so I went with C.Quartz this time.

CarPro makes a bunch of different products, and it's hard at first to understand what to buy. C.Quartz is the ceramic coating, but what is Reload, Gliss, Forte, or Dlux? Reload and Gliss are the two top coat sealants that CarPro makes to protect the base C.Quartz layer. Reload is a spray on coating that lasts up to 6 months, and Gliss is a wipe on coating that installs the same way the C.Quartz layer is installed and lasts up to 12 months. Forte is a ceramic coating for glass, and Dlux is CarPro's ceramic coating for plastic trim and high temp areas (wheels).

Reload is what came with the C.Quartz package that I bought, so that is what I used. You can buy Reload by the liter bottle, and I'm thinking that it is the product that CarPro wants you to buy and use as the sacrificial layer to maintain the base ceramic coating. To be honest, you could probably just buy Reload by itself and get a big chunk of the protection of a ceramic coating with a lot less effort. You would need to reapply regularly though. Very much like the hybrid-ceramic spray-on stuff you can get from Meguiar's and other companies. Just saying...

I'm going to buy some more Reload to maintain the coating, and some Forte and Dlux to apply to the glass, plastic trim and wheels.

In the end, this was not that hard to do. It just takes time and care to prep the car and get the coating applied correctly. Do some research, watch some videos and save yourself ~ $1,200-$1,300, which is what local detailers wanted to do this job.

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Well done. Hard to go wrong with CarPro products.
 

kilobravo

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@Colleton: Excellent writeup and by reading between the lines, I presume this was your first go around with ceramic. I'm in that boat and plan to do the wife's vehicle first to learn and then do the important vehicle. :cool:

I grabbed some Gyeon coating for hers and C.Quartz + Reload for the Mustang. I just straight out got the coating and a quart of Reload, not one of the CP packages.

So my question is, what paint prep did you do prior and if you polished the clear, what did you use?

TIA,

KB
 

fmc_smt

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@Colleton: Excellent writeup and by reading between the lines, I presume this was your first go around with ceramic. I'm in that boat and plan to do the wife's vehicle first to learn and then do the important vehicle. :cool:

I grabbed some Gyeon coating for hers and C.Quartz + Reload for the Mustang. I just straight out got the coating and a quart of Reload, not one of the CP packages.

So my question is, what paint prep did you do prior and if you polished the clear, what did you use?

TIA,

KB
Best thing that has worked for me , strip wash (removes any oil or silicon products ) , iron wash ( removes any iron deposits ) clay bar ( removes any contamination left in micro scratches ) , cut and polish ( compound backed with a polish ) . I am a big fan of Adams products . For the the cut in polish I use Adams swirl killer polisher and products . Not hard just take your time . That is the prep I do before adding any kind of sealant . Side note , pick up a portable deironizer for your rinse , helps a ton to prevent water spots . Also I suggest using a 2 bucket wash method , 1 with soap and rinse bucket for your mitt , also recommend to have grit guards in your buckets.
 

kilobravo

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FMC: Thanks for the tips. I was mostly interested in the OP's choice of polish and pad. I have check boxes in all the other things you mentioned and have a commercial grade water treatment system here at the house (because the City thinks more Chlorine is the answer to any problem,) so I have those aspects covered.

I'm looking for the finest finishing compound I can find to use with a couple Rupes polishers and extra-fine pads. I've already done the original paint correction so prior to ceramic, I simply want to achieve the best shine I can on the clear.

KB
 

SilverCobra

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FMC: Thanks for the tips. I was mostly interested in the OP's choice of polish and pad. I have check boxes in all the other things you mentioned and have a commercial grade water treatment system here at the house (because the City thinks more Chlorine is the answer to any problem,) so I have those aspects covered.

I'm looking for the finest finishing compound I can find to use with a couple Rupes polishers and extra-fine pads. I've already done the original paint correction so prior to ceramic, I simply want to achieve the best shine I can on the clear.

KB
Menzerna 3800 super polish is the best I have used it’s a little pricey but polish out well remember to prep the paint remove iron deposits and Clay the car before polishing if you are applying ceramic coating all wax must be moved for it to adhere to the paint also make sure to cover all plastic non painted parts in the polishing process and the ceramic coating process
 

protraxduner

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Rupes user here....they have polishes and corresponding pads so pretty user friendly. Just have to determine what level to start at. Unfortunately polishing is somewhat of an art and takes some practice....I usually try and do the 'rough' polishing myself then let my buddy do the final cause that's what he does for living. Super Super time consuming....putting on the ceramic is easier part.
 

kilobravo

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Thanks, Tony. I have lots of Rupes pads but have never used any of their compounds. I just need someone with experience to point me to their favorite final compound for maximum gloss and I'll use the extra/ultra-fine white Rupes pads. To date, Sonax Final Finish is the compound that has given me the best shine. I want Show quality shine, ifyouknowwhatImeanVern. :-)

KB
 

protraxduner

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Thanks, Tony. I have lots of Rupes pads but have never used any of their compounds. I just need someone with experience to point me to their favorite final compound for maximum gloss and I'll use the extra/ultra-fine white Rupes pads. To date, Sonax Final Finish is the compound that has given me the best shine. I want Show quality shine, ifyouknowwhatImeanVern. :-)

KB
My detailer actually does NOT like the ultra fine compound. He stops at fine ....says ultra/extra clouds it up sometimes.
 

kilobravo

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Interesting Tony but it sounds like there's something wrong with that equation. Polisher speed too high perhaps, too much heat? Just guessing but since there is definitely a market for ultra fine compounds, they have to work. Otherwise, they would dry up and blow away like the PoPeel Pocket Fisherman. :-)

KB
 

protraxduner

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Interesting Tony but it sounds like there's something wrong with that equation. Polisher speed too high perhaps, too much heat? Just guessing but since there is definitely a market for ultra fine compounds, they have to work. Otherwise, they would dry up and blow away like the PoPeel Pocket Fisherman. :-)

KB
Yeah I would tend to agree, but I also have and seen his work ....its nothing short of perfection. So I let him do what he wants. Now I just have to wait for my newly painted stuff to cure so I can ceramic mine. Race red is so bright out of box, going to need sunglasses after ceramic.
 
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Colleton

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So my question is, what paint prep did you do prior and if you polished the clear, what did you use?

TIA,

KB
I washed it, clayed it lightly and then used an IPA spray (50/50 water and 99% IPA) to remove any chemical residue. I did not polish it as it's a brand new car and the finish is not screwed up. Maybe I should have, but I don't think it would have made much of a difference.

GL with yours!
 

protraxduner

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Almost always whether new or old or brand new off showroom floor, paint will need polished.
 

kilobravo

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Thanks, Colleton and while a brand new clear coat needs less lovin than an older, faded one, as Tony said, they all need polish and yes, you would have quickly noticed the difference. Next time, amigo..no rush, that clear isn't going anywhere. :-)

KB
 
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Colleton

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Not the best pic but here it is after curing, waiting on some maintenance at the dealership. Looking pretty shiny I think.

I still need to do the windshield, trim and wheels. I have the coatings for these, just need to find time to apply them.

D6018868-7D12-4A0C-A80A-B17E7DC6996D.jpeg
 

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