Broken Jacking Rail bolt

[Soulja4187]

most bolts can be searched by the stamps information they have on the bolt head. Please post a picture

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[WD Pro]

most bolts can be searched by the stamps information they have on the bolt head. Please post a picture

10.9 on the head (the grade).

Other than that, it's a custom bolt with a large thick gauge heavy duty captive washer and a lead in to try to stop cross threading. It's also got a heavy zinc plate and pre applied thread lock.

I will take a photo of the OE packaging for the OP as soon as I am home, I will include a shot of the bolt

WD

Edit to add picture :

 

[Lurker_350]

Same thing happened to me - front drivers side bolt. Was torquing it to spec and it snapped. Had to drill the center, left hand tapped it, and was able to back it out. I went back with some bolts from McMaster Carr.

 

[smoke_wagon_6g]

These bolts and holes along the frame are not for anything once the car is built. They don't actually clamp any parts together (great pic by WD Pro) so it looks like they are for internal Ford factory use so they make no und-user guarantees with respect to fitment. It's just us enthusiasts trying to install jacking rails that run into issues.

Hell they probably just ran the bolts back in the holes to keep them off the factory floor.

By my count there are seven asymmetrical threaded holes along each rail. Four on each side are provided with bolts installed, three are not. See the picture, and my car was the same. My issues with stuck bolts concerned the two rearmost holes (on the right side) that are on both sides of an oval opening. That pair did not easily accept an M10 (15mm head) that came out of a different hole on the same side.

But I broke a rear bolt and you broke a forward bolt. That's strange since these are big bolts going into clean threads.

Of course M10 bolts can have 15mm or 16mm heads and can also have one of three several thread pitches. Welcome to the "simplicity" of metric fasteners.

 

[Rapid Red]

These bolts and holes along the frame are not for anything once the car is built. They don't actually clamp any parts together (great pic by WD Pro) so it looks like they are for internal Ford factory use so they make no und-user guarantees with respect to fitment. It's just us enthusiasts trying to install jacking rails that run into issues.

Hell they probably just ran the bolts back in the holes to keep them off the factory floor.

By my count there are seven asymmetrical threaded holes along each rail. Four on each side are provided with bolts installed, three are not. See the picture, and my car was the same. My issues with stuck bolts concerned the two rearmost holes (on the right side) that are on both sides of an oval opening. That pair did not easily accept an M10 (15mm head) that came out of a different hole on the same side.

But I broke a rear bolt and you broke a forward bolt. That's strange since these are big bolts going into clean threads.

Of course M10 bolts can have 15mm or 16mm heads and can also have one of three several thread pitches. Welcome to the "simplicity" of metric fasteners.

And a big “Thank You” goes to Jimmy Carter.......should have left well enough alone.

 

[WD Pro]

Of course M10 bolts can have 15mm or 16mm heads and can also have one of three several thread pitches. Welcome to the "simplicity" of metric fasteners.

I didn’t comment at the time, but now I have checked I can confirm all holes are standard M10 (1.5mm thread pitch).

If any holes are tight, it’s likely paint or general road grime (including corrosion), probably from the holes being left unused / unprotected from the factory and in a crap environment.

I’ve just threaded a bolt (easily by hand) into the only two holes per side I hadn’t previously checked or used (checking for fitting my Steeda IRS braces)

WD

 

[smoke_wagon_6g]

I didn’t comment at the time, but now I have checked I can confirm all holes are standard M10 (1.5mm thread pitch).

If any holes are tight, it’s likely paint or general road grime (including corrosion), probably from the holes being left unused / unprotected from the factory and in a crap environment.

I’ve just threaded a bolt (easily by hand) into the only two holes per side I hadn’t previously checked or used (checking for fitting my Steeda IRS braces)

WD

Yeah, I finally tapped my four threaded holes that started empty and can confirm as well: M10, 1.5 pitch. The tap was surprisingly difficult and it almost felt like cutting threads into sheet metal. Mine had some corrosion sure but the main thing was that they were full of overspray probably because they had no factory bolts preinstalled when the car was painted.

Any way, good information especially because as people start to install parts on cars that have been on the road for a while they'll encounter this situation.

And what the hell I'm amazed at the quality of the literally no-name $39 "Amazon's choice" tap and die set. Not a manufacturer's name to be found anywhere. Probably Chinese but definitely not the garbage I was expecting.

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