Beyond being able to choose among various throttle response mappings, my understanding of the nuances among these various drive modes is quite limited. It's what driving for something like 47 years before owning a car that even had electronic stability control (plus spending the next 9 years turning it off) does for you.Oh it for sure is. I still drive in Sport mode, not Track mode and I see the TC light turn on a lot. I'm not smooth enough yet to drive without it.
An instructor told me when I can feel and know that the nannies are holding me back, that's when you can take them off. Or I've heard to push the car hard with TC on and watch where on the track the light comes on. Then try to push the car as hard as you can in the same areas without the light coming on. At that point, you know you are in control.Beyond being able to choose among various throttle response mappings, my understanding of the nuances among these various drive modes is quite limited. It's what driving for something like 47 years before owning a car that even had electronic stability control (plus spending the next 9 years turning it off) does for you.
I'm afraid I don't know how to describe how you'll know when you do get smooth enough, even in the absence of any nannies. Let alone when your selected mode may be cutting off the fun before you can clearly pick up any warnings that you're starting to ask for too much.
Norm
Then try to push the car as hard as you can in the same areas without the light coming on.
I think you will find that the car is actually easier to drive with Advancetrac fully off. It is for me. Get your harness in, so that you can feel the car's small movements in your butt, and then turn it off. Learn how to control the car without nannies, and if they're calibrated well (from what I hear, only GT350's are this good), they'll help you go faster. Otherwise, they're just slowing you down and giving you a false sense of control/security.An instructor told me when I can feel and know that the nannies are holding me back, that's when you can take them off. Or I've heard to push the car hard with TC on and watch where on the track the light comes on. Then try to push the car as hard as you can in the same areas without the light coming on. At that point, you know you are in control.
I can feel the car pulling throttle when the light comes on though. Just need to work on my braking zones so I don't enter too fast and swing the back end out.
I plan to try it out without the nannies next time I'm on an open, dirt-surrounded track. Going to Autoclub this weekend and will definitely NOT be turning them off with walls all around the trackI think you will find that the car is actually easier to drive with Advancetrac fully off. It is for me. Get your harness in, so that you can feel the car's small movements in your butt, and then turn it off. Learn how to control the car without nannies, and if they're calibrated well (from what I hear, only GT350's are this good), they'll help you go faster. Otherwise, they're just slowing you down and giving you a false sense of control/security.
Your description is one of pad smear. I don't care whether it is a quality gloc pad. Go up a couple steps and see what happens.I love these technical discussions.
Let's objectively clarify some things. So my problem is brake judder under hard braking into turns. Some visual things I've noticed: the front rotors look dark gray on the surface and hazy. The rear rotors "hats" near the mounting hub looked to be slightly purple, suggesting they got very hot.
The possible root causes for the brake judder are:
1. Improper bedding - this could be the problem but I don't believe it is. I followed the manufacturer's instructions
2. Uneven / excess pad deposits due to overheated pads - I don't think this is the problem as the GLOC R12 pads are rated up to 1860°
3. "Hot spots" in the actual rotors due to overheated rotors - I think this is the issue. As rotors act as a heat sink for the braking system, if they are receiving more heat than they can reject AND the material is more prone to sporadic hardening, this seems like a recipe for brake judder
especially so because as soon as you roll to a stop, the pad/rotor overlap is not getting near the same degree of cooling as the rest of the rotor. I've done this on bike brakes and those are paper thin by comparison so don't retain heat like big chunks of cast iron. My naive solution would be to use little or no brakes during as much of the cool down lap as possible and once in the pits, rotate the wheels 1/4-1/2 turn after a few minutes to expose the shrouded area to cooling.3. "Hot spots" in the actual rotors due to overheated rotors - I think this is the issue.
I've always taken this one step further and driven another mile or two around access roads and such to extend the time where you're actively getting at least some air movement. Even at my first track day ever.My naive solution would be to use little or no brakes during as much of the cool down lap as possible
I follow the same method as well... as soon as I come off track I drive out of the paddock area and drive a mile or two to ensure things return back as close to normal operating temps as I can. Furthermore, on the last lap of a session I attempt not to use the brakes at all... simply using the cars friction when turning into a corner to slow it down (of course corner entry at a much lower speed).I've always taken this one step further and driven another mile or two around access roads and such to extend the time where you're actively getting at least some air movement. Even at my first track day ever.
Norm