Brake fluid replacement with Motive System

[matthewr87]

I am going to be replacing my brake fluid before my next track event. I have the Motive System and I was wondering if folks could share any tips that might be helpful. I always learn from my mistakes but if I can learn from the mistakes of others then that is good too and can save some headaches Thanks!

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[NoXiDe]

Looks pretty straight forward. Just make sure you got at least 1 (11mm) stubby or an offset wrench for the front inside bleeder valve. It appears to be a tight space.

PS. Although we do not need quick disconnects and it's just a nice add-on to add. If anyone knows where I can find a pair just let me know as I do want to add that.

 

[matthewr87]

Is it advisable to remove some of the old fluid from the reservoir before attaching the Motive system? I've seen some videos where they do that.

 

[BoomBoy]

Is it advisable to remove some of the old fluid from the reservoir before attaching the Motive system? I've seen some videos where they do that.

There are many ways to do it but I just pump air into the Motive container and flush with air until the brake reservoir is low enough to add the fresh brake fluid. That way, I don't have to clean the Motive system or use anything to suck the old brake fluid out of the reservoir.

 

[ZX3ST]

There are many ways to do it but I just pump air into the Motive container and flush with air until the brake reservoir is low enough to add the fresh brake fluid. That way, I don't have to clean the Motive system or use anything to suck the old brake fluid out of the reservoir.

I used to do the exact same thing (and for the same reasons) until I got tired of pumping the stupid tank full every time I needed to top off the reservoir.

I have since put together a small inline regulator with a ball valve, and put 1/4" quick connects on all my adapters. Now I just use the air compressor for that job. Way easier.

 

[matthewr87]

There are many ways to do it but I just pump air into the Motive container and flush with air until the brake reservoir is low enough to add the fresh brake fluid. That way, I don't have to clean the Motive system or use anything to suck the old brake fluid out of the reservoir.

I guess with this method you just have to be careful not to fully drain the reservoir?

 

[TDC]

I do the dry method as well. Don’t like the idea of having paint killing brake fluid under pressure and ready to spray all over the car. Also saves from having to do the cleanup.
Don’t like the idea of using s compressor because fear of introducing water into the fluid.

 

[matthewr87]

Seems like a good strategy. I guess you guys drain the old fluid by pressurizing the system and opening one of the caliper bleeder valves, then top up the reservoir with new fluid, and then perform the bleeding procedure on all four corners to ensure that the new fluid has completely flushed the system?

 

[Tomster]

I use the turkey baster method. Draw (almost) all the fluid out with a turkey baster. Fill the reservoir with the desired fluid, and then flush the system.

Its all great until Thanksgiving rolls around and you know who wants to know where the turkey baster went.....m

 

[ZX3ST]

Don’t like the idea of using s compressor because fear of introducing water into the fluid.

I was worried about the same, but I talked myself into doing it anyways. You're not flowing much of any air volume so I think the risk is low.

 

[BoomBoy]

I guess with this method you just have to be careful not to fully drain the reservoir?

Yes, you don't want to introduce air into the line. Just take your time and make sure the reservoir is not completely empty.

 

[matthewr87]

Yes, you don't want to introduce air into the line. Just take your time and make sure the reservoir is not completely empty.

Cool! Does it drain really quickly?

 

[NoXiDe]

Can it be said that the very first suggestion with the video is the best solution that guarantees you won't introduce air into the line. As everyone knows by now there are many ways to do it. If anything, I'd have to settle that it is the best solution because you have a video to reference from start to finish as opposed to having text that says do these things and you're good to go.

If someone else wants to share their process with a video using a gt350 as a reference of drawing the fluid out, filling it up, and etc that would be cool. Until then, I'd say it's risky following anything else when we're not an expert ourselves. I'm calling myself out as I've yet to do one and I'd have to rely on AutoFanatic/Woman.Driven's brake flush video tutorial. With brakes, I don't play around with.

Here's another professional bleed/flush video using the motive bleeder. This method shows drawing the old brake fluid out method.

 

[Tomster]

Cool! Does it drain really quickly?

LOL, the Castrol SRF at $80 a liter drains way too quickly.....

The auto fanatic video is spot on, with one exception...... If you are going from stock OEM fluid to a racing fluid, you really need to get as much of the OEM reservoir fluid out before starting this process. Otherwise, you will just be mixing two different fluids in your resevoir and you would be defeating the purpose of replacing OEM fluid to a high boil point fluid. Again, use some kind of device (I use a turkey baster with a hose extension) to extract as much of the OEM fluid out of the reservoir but don't remove all of it. You need to leave enough fluid in the reservoir so that the pickups are covered and air cannot enter the system. Once you have done this, fill the reservoir with the racing fluid and then use the auto fanatic video as a guide.

 

[NoXiDe]

LOL, the Castrol SRF at $80 a liter drains way too quickly.....

The auto fanatic video is spot on, with one exception...... If you are going from stock OEM fluid to a racing fluid, you really need to get as much of the OEM reservoir fluid out before starting this process. Otherwise, you will just be mixing two different fluids in your resevoir and you would be defeating the purpose of replacing OEM fluid to a high boil point fluid. Again, use some kind of device (I use a turkey baster with a hose extension) to extract as much of the OEM fluid out of the reservoir but don't remove all of it. You need to leave enough fluid in the reservoir so that the pickups are covered and air cannot enter the system. Once you have done this, fill the reservoir with the racing fluid and then use the auto fanatic video as a guide.

He doesn't draw it out first but I see what you're saying. Draw it out if the scenario is switching to racing fluid. Once enough is drawed out, refill the master cylinder reservoir back to the max fill line? Then pour another liter into the motive bleeder and push it through that way?

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