How much brake fluid?

[geb78]

Changing my brake fluid out, anyone know what the capacity is?

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[TheDeadCow]

Manual?

 

[cjgt350]

Approximately 1 1/2 500mL bottles or 750mL is what used. If using a pressure bleeder plan on buying three so you don't catch any air. Then return to the bottles with what is left.

 

[geb78]

Approximately1 1/2 500mL bottles or 750mL is what used. If using a pressure bleeder plan on buying three so you don't catch any air. Then return to the bottles with what is left.

Awesome, thanks!

 

[cjgt350]

Awesome, thanks!

No problem. This is what I used. Most have their preferred but I have been very happy with the performance and many swear by it.

http://www.ogracing.com/torque-rt700-racing-brake-fluid

http://www.torquebrakefluid.com/compare_torque_rt700_to_other_brake_fluids.html

 

[Tomster]

Approximately 1 1/2 500mL bottles or 750mL is what used. If using a pressure bleeder plan on buying three so you don't catch any air. Then return to the bottles with what is left.

That's how much I used.

 

[MikeR397]

I'm have 2 bottles of SRF on hand and want to flush the OEM fluid out of my R before my first track day next month. (at M1 Concourse, which is very hard on brakes - I've boiled fluid before in my Ferrari 360 and 996tt and it sucks ruining a track day or having to change it there). I'm hoping the R's massively larger brake setup and better air ducting will make this a moot issue even with OEM fluid in the future, but I already have the SRF on hand and prefer to play it safe for my first couple times out.

My R has 1,000 miles on it now, and obviously the oem https://www.opmustang.com/store/p109/Motorcraft_OEM_Dot_4LV_High_Performance_Brake_Fluid.html fluid is still perfectly clear. It looks like the system capacity is 750ml, while my SRF bottles are 1,000ml so that should be adequate to just use one bottle. Of course, the issue is there is no visible way to tell when the line is clear of OEM and the SRF is into the caliper, and I really don't want to have to crack that 2nd $70 bottle to just use a little of it and have to throw away the rest.

Any suggestions on how to make sure I bleed all the OEM out but don't go over the single 1L SRF bottle? I have a Motive power bleeder (btw the European cap I use for my Ferrari and Porsche also fits the R's brake fluid reservoir). Doing Right Rear, Left Rear, Front Right, Front Left lines in that order of longest first, I figured I'd try to drain 275ml, 275ml, 225ml, 225ml or just about as close as I can. Any other suggestions? Really wish the fluids were different colors so you could easily tell still...

 

[fpa1974]

Any suggestions on how to make sure I bleed all the OEM out but don't go over the single 1L SRF bottle? I have a Motive power bleeder (btw the European cap I use for my Ferrari and Porsche also fits the R's brake fluid reservoir). Doing Right Rear, Left Rear, Front Right, Front Left lines in that order of longest first, I figured I'd try to drain 275ml, 275ml, 225ml, 225ml or just about as close as I can. Any other suggestions? Really wish the fluids were different colors so you could easily tell still...

Without any color change I do not know how, but I suspect the fluid in the lines will probably be different in color than brand new fresh fluid - I know it always has been the case for me. In any case if you want something based on quantities I would not divide in 4 equal parts. From my experience the first one takes the most fluid to change color and so on. If you want a formula I would try the following ratios in order (6/16, 5/16, 3/16, 2/16). Of course you can tweak it based on what you get visually but I think that might be a good starting point.

 

[Zitrosounds]

The way I would do it to make sure I flush any old fluid would be by emptying out the reservoir just above the supply tube and filling it with clean new stuff. Then once you flush the system with more of the new stuff you will completely have eliminated any remnants of the old fluid. I've used many methods to remove the fluid from the reservoir but my most favorite is with a syringe and a clear tube

 

[Epiphany]

Any other suggestions?

Certainly. From your link above...
https://www.opmustang.com/store/p271/Caliperfexion_17-4PH_Stainless_Stud_Kit.html

 

[JAJ]

Any suggestions on how to make sure I bleed all the OEM out but don't go over the single 1L SRF bottle? ...

Strictly speaking, even if you have the tools to cycle the ABS, it can't be done with just one liter. It takes about a liter to flush the brake system, but when you flush the brake system, old brake fluid "stays" in two places - the clutch system and the ABS/Advancetrac system. To get to a clean flush, you really have to do it two or three times, at about 1 liter per, spaced out over a long enough time that the clutch is cycled several hundred times and the ABS is hammered a few times too.

When I used SRF, back in the good old days, I used to figure it was about a year of track days and bleeds to get the SRF throughout the whole system. Until then, I was confident that it was in the working circuits - the wheel cylinders in particular - and that was fine. I never had fade problems, but then I still don't have fade problems and I'm running ATE Typ200. YMMV.

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