Boosted IAT2 temps

[ugstang17]

If OP will simply pop the hood on the car, turn the key on/engine off and use that fancy smart phone to video the coolant flow in the reservoir and then post it here we can confirm his/her coolant flow is working optimally based on what we see in similar PD systems. Worse comes to worse take the car to your friendly neighborhood speed shop and have them pull a vacuum on the H.E. system to ensure any air bubbles are gone if that will make you feel more confident about it. But visual inspection of flow return from the pump seen in the res tank will confirm this. Then go beat the brains out of it and have some fun.

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[racingmason]

+40 degrees above ambient with air temp 50f. Summer when ambient is 90 indeed 130ish iats.

 

[Burkey]

There is so much bad data on these forums about IAT2 temps and reason was pointed out by ugstang17. Most people think that inlet temp from dash is readout and pulled from MAF is accurate, but only with centi setups blowing through it. The other mistake made is when people put an NGuage or OBD2 scanner type in and then pull up the IAT2 PID. Yes it will read and display this on say an Ngauge but it's only extrapolated data and not a true reading. for true IAT2 you must have a dedicated IAT sensor installed and a system like Zietronix or others that so the same to read it properly and have real data.

I've done a lot of testing and have had 2 different standalone IAT2 sensors installed (Zietronix and PLX) running at the same time to compare against each other and the data from IAT1, IAT2 reading from NGauge. Stock MAF sensor (IAT1) and IAT2) are slow compared to the dedicated standalone systems and IAT2 which is the extrapolated was 10-15 degrees lower than actual reading from standalone unit. Good data is hard to come by when comparing IAT temps on these threads, just too many people don't have accurate data and don't understand why.

I’m confused...
Are you saying that the IAT2 sensor that we all use when we aren’t running a Whipple tune (Lund, PBD, VMP etc) isn’t reading correctly? Or are you saying that it’s simply slow to react to the fluctuations in temp?

 

[Greyhorse]

i dont really see any flow in my tank, but i did pull the fuse and and the temps shot up to 170+ in about 1 mile , started at about 110 degrees.
I have been wandering if the heat from the engine is being transferred into the temp sensor, i believe the intake manifold to be aluminum, and this is what is giving it a possibly higher reading, because when i put my hand on the hoses to the intercooler they dont feel that hot. So maybe a different temp sensor needs to be installed and used or either the tune just use the temp rise/difference for tuning purposes assuming it is less?
IDK but just weird to crank it up while sitting for 10 minutes (after driving a while) and see 145-150 degree reading and it take several miles or more for it to drop back to about 40-50 degrees above ambient.
Could be very delayed due to the heat soak and type of sensor or both.
Either way im sending it...

 

[Greyhorse]

i dont really see any flow in my tank, but i did pull the fuse and and the temps shot up to 170+ in about 1 mile , started at about 110 degrees.
I have been wandering if the heat from the engine is being transferred into the temp sensor, i believe the intake manifold to be aluminum, and this is what is giving it a possibly higher reading, because when i put my hand on the hoses to the intercooler they dont feel that hot. So maybe a different temp sensor needs to be installed and used or either the tune just use the temp rise/difference for tuning purposes assuming it is less?
IDK but just weird to crank it up while sitting for 10 minutes (after driving a while) and see 145-150 degree reading and it take several miles or more for it to drop back to about 40-50 degrees above ambient.
Could be very delayed due to the heat soak and type of sensor or both.
Either way im sending it...

that and im am just trying to see what i can do to improve the car without voiding the warranty , so maybe a bigger pump for now or pnr ice tank,
baer eradispeed rotors, lighten it up , cool her down and get the most i can out of the roush tune for now

 

[ugstang17]

If you are not seeing fluid movement in the intercooler reservoir (not the coolant overflow) with key on, you may actually have a restriction. You can see the movement without even pulling the cap off. I was under the hood of mine over the weekend and observed this while hooking up a charger to do a tune flash (dag these S550's take forever to load a tune). So this poses three possible issues. 1.) There may be a bubble in the system reducing/restricting flow. 2.) The pump itself could be defective and not moving fluid at it's 4GPM (15.2LPM) rating. 3.) You may have a kinked line in the system from the point of install.

For the pump you can pull a line and time filling a 2 liter bottle. If it fills in about 8 seconds that equates to 15.2LPM (4 GPM).
For the air bubble you can either get a vacuum pulled down on it, or cycle the bubble out yourself.
For the kink you will need to pull panels and possibly the nose to inspect that all hoses are installed correctly.

OR you can take it to Roush and tell them to resolve it.

That sums it up. There are plenty of videos to teach you how to purge a bubble from a coolant system and how to pull the nose off the front of an S550. duckduckgo.com to search for one (GOOGLE SUCKS).

 

[Chainsaw]

On the 2018+ Roushcharged cars there is a bypass hose under the degas bottle. The majority of the coolant will go through the bypass, a little bit of the coolant will travel through the degas bottle. For me to see if the pump is working I have to pinch off the bypass hose with my hand. That way you can see the full flow going through the degas bottle.

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