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Bmr parts issues

TeeLew

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With all that power being transferred to the back, IMO it's a problem.
It's only a problem if the joint moves. Like I said, it was never press fit. The joint was always going to have slop even if everything was perfect. You're not using dowels or top hats to locate the pieces with respect to each other. It's a very simple single-shear joint. The friction from the clamping force stops the relative motion, not the strength of the bolt. By the time the bolt is taking shear load, things have moved *a ton*. The subframe to the tub is the same type of connection. That's why the subframe has the little teeth, to increase the friction to the point where it turns into a mechanical lock. The subframe bolts aren't taking shear load. Their load is in tension. The little teeth are what distributes the fore/aft and side loads from the subframe to the chassis.

If we have insufficient clamping load or contact surface area, then we'll get the motion we don't want. Clearly, if you remove enough material, that will be an issue. However, if you have to open a hole here or there with a Dremel by a mm or 2, that's not the end of the world.

This is just my opinion, so it's worth every penny you paid for it.
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TeeLew

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*IF* you're launching hard enough to physically move the BMR braces, then you need to look at the subframe bushings or possibly making some sort of lateral link that is actually doweled in one way or another to the chassis.
 

WildHorse

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so it's worth every penny you paid for it.
Is it ? I want a refund.. + 10 bucks for having to read that whole thing 😅
 

TeeLew

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Is it ? I want a refund.. + 10 bucks for having to read that whole thing 😅
My mother told me, "Want in one hand and shit in the other...see which one gets full." She had quite the way with words.
 

Robottrainer

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No but i can try that today. Had to call it quits at 11pm yesterday after this project kicking my ass lol.

My wife had a good laugh at my "two hours at most" install haha.

Im just really concerned at how much that rethreaded hole with hold. I messed it up pretty bad before i decided to fix it. I torqued to 115 and called it there. I'm probably always gonna worry about it ripping out now 😂
You can helicoil it or use Kelltracs stud kit.
 

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You can helicoil it or use Kelltracs stud kit.
But you'd still be screwing it into a rethreaded hole. Would be nice if there were some way to get a nut on the other end but I'm guessing that would require cutting a hole through somewhere.
 

Robottrainer

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But you'd still be screwing it into a rethreaded hole. Would be nice if there were some way to get a nut on the other end but I'm guessing that would require cutting a hole through somewhere.
A bolt has metal to metal contact plus the tensile force trying to pull the bolt out. A stud is merely a clamping force. Since there is no load on the threads as you screw the stud in, there is less chance of screwing up the treads. If you can get torque on the bolt you should be fine.
 

Strokerswild

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Interesting. As you can see in my sig, I have all most all of what BMR makes on my car. Every piece that I installed bolted up without any hole enlarging or having to try and stretch things to get bolts started. I have been very happy with every piece that I have bought.

It could be that I was just a lucky one, but I wanted to add my experience to the comments. And, my 85 year old Dad helped me do the install and with two of us it went very well. I also called them prior to purchase. Don’t recall the guys name that I spoke with. He was very helpful when I explained what I wanted to achieve. I did not feel like he was just trying to sell me their entire catalog of Mustang parts. I would still recommend them and like what I got. Sorry for those who have had so many difficulties.
Same. I've got a fair amount of BMR stuff on my '15, and it all fit like a dream. Maybe their QC went to hell in the intervening years.

As others have said, aftermarket parts are often a hassle....
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