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Blue Smoke on Cold Start

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A little bit of blue smoke (oil burning) at startup is not an issue as long as it goes away shortly.

If you had bad valve guides or something like that, the blue smoke would be all the time.
I don’t really have a hill near where I live, however I have tried doing that but could never tell for sure whether or not it was smoking.
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Ok your on the wrong track. Blue smoke is fuel white/grey smoke is oil. This is not a oil problem if the smoke really is blue. Those plugs look fine no signs of burning oil
Start looking at injectors, tune
Bluish = oil
White/Grey = water
Black/grey = fuel

IMO, the plugs look as if combustion is on the rich side. I've not pulled my plugs and have little experience with the Coyote, but tan/caramel is what you want. Dark/back is rich, white is lean, though some cleaners can leave a chalky residue and odd bumps on the plugs. The plugs look on the rich side to me.

Let the car sit till cold, start the motor for a minute or two, as soon as you see the smoke shut it off and see which plug(s) are wettest to see which are leaking.

I agree with most that worn valve guides are usually the cause of this. May not get worse, but eventually will likely grow worse as they continue to wear and leak, and will blow smoke after a long decel or after idling at a stop light and blow smoke when you accelerate from the stop.
 
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Bluish = oil
White/Grey = water
Black/grey = fuel

IMO, the plugs look as if combustion is on the rich side. I've not pulled my plugs and have little experience with the Coyote, but tan/caramel is what you want. Dark/back is rich, white is lean, though some cleaners can leave a chalky residue and odd bumps on the plugs. The plugs look on the rich side to me.

Let the car sit till cold, start the motor for a minute or two, as soon as you see the smoke shut it off and see which plug(s) are wettest to see which are leaking.

I agree with most that worn valve guides are usually the cause of this. May not get worse, but eventually will likely grow worse as they continue to wear and leak, and will blow smoke after a long decel or after idling at a stop light and blow smoke when you accelerate from the stop.
I'll try getting that done this weekend, car has to go in for some suspension work later this week so after that I'll probably video and upload my findings here, I appreciate all the input!
 
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Just a little update for the thread:

So we have to redo my consumption test, my SA ended up getting sick and was out for a few weeks when I hit the 1K mark so we missed the opportunity to do it. Nonetheless, I’ve noticed something strange. I ended up driving 3K miles during my original consumption test and for the first 1.5K after my oil change, the blue smoke was pretty evident on cold start, especially the week immediately after my oil change. After that, it would barely show blue smoke, like some days none at all. For the past 3 weeks or so I sort of forgot until today, I got my oil change and after starting up the cloud of blue smoke was insane.

Very curious on why after I get my oil change I notice the blue smoke and after driving around 1K miles it’s unnoticeable. Looking back, this all started after I got my modifications done and decided to get an oil change and noticed the day after at work. I’ll record the blue smoke in the morning to show the extent of how crazy it is after an oil change.
 

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If the problem only started after an oil change - was the proper oil used (weight/viscosity)?
 

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If the problem only started after an oil change - was the proper oil used (weight/viscosity)?
Same oil from when I got the car, dealership does it. I believe it’s 5w-20 fs

I did take a video of the smoke I just need to upload it
 

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So I know yours is a newer model and you're concern is the cold starts, but take a look at this thread from another M6G member. The issue he outlines could be a possibility.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bad-valve-seal-6.105176/#post-2271410

or this thread not too far from your own:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-blue-smoke-on-passenger-side-exhaust.173719/


But it's odd your issue has cropped up after a Dealer oil change event and your mods. Have you reached out to Lund regarding the possibility of it being related to the tuning parameters you have?
 
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So I know yours is a newer model and you're concern is the cold starts, but take a look at this thread from another M6G member. The issue he outlines could be a possibility.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bad-valve-seal-6.105176/#post-2271410

But it's odd your issue has cropped up after a Dealer oil change event and your mods. Have you reached out to Lund regarding the possibility of it being related to the tuning parameters you have?
Yeah, the first thing we did was contact Lund and send them multiple logs of the car and they said everything looks good as far as the tune goes. & yeah it’s very strange to me, it’s been dealer serviced since I bought it (bought it new) and I get oil changes every 3-4K miles. I’ll check out that thread, thanks!
 
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Hey guys, sorry for the inactivity in this. So, I took it to the dealer and they said I passed the oil consumption test, I apparently only burned half a quart in a thousand miles. With that being said, I finally got a decent video of it smoking on cold start, I’ll attach it to this. Not sure what I should do next to be honest. (Note: I revved it then hit record, that’s why it’s that intense in the video)
 

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Maybe I missed it I don’t know. But what weight oil are you running?because I would step it up to to a thicker oil
 

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It’s 5w-20, ford serviced since new. I’ve been thinking about switching to 5w-30 since I also have the motor clicking as well.
 
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Hey guys, months later I have a final update to the thread. As I stated above, I stopped driving the car so often so I didn't really care about the issue until I went E85. Once I changed fuel and began hitting on the car more I began noticing the smoke after warm-up which it didn't prior to the fuel change. Because of it, I sent the car to get a leak-down test where they saw cylinders 2 and 6 were not holding compression like before. Air coming through the crankcase made its way out through the PCV line that they had disconnected which led us to believe it was no longer seals and that there was a good chance that the rings were failing. Accepting the fact that the most effective route for me was building a short-block was probably the best idea since we are boosting soon I still took it to the dealer where they shockingly threw a new block covered under warranty. Just decided to give an update beacuse at the time it was stumping us pretty hard!
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