Bilstein B12

[junits15]

The b16 we again don't know spring rates. And despite being adjustable it's likely valved harder. Unless you're just itching to drop 2k to find out, stick with the known entity.

I don't think its fair to assume its valved harder, we literally have nothing to base that on. Steeda only publishes spring rates anyway, its not like we know anything about those dampers either.

The B16's big advantage is that its 2 way adjustable, I don't see that offered much for this car.

Looking at the Bilstein offerings which I plan to go with at some point. Is the B6 setup with choice of springs a better option than the B16 coilovers they offer? Both end up pretty close in price which is interesting given that one is a coilover setup.

Buy B16 if you want to be able to adjust the setup, buy B12/B6+springs if you don't. It entirely depends on what you want/need. In my case I'd never do B16 because I'm not likely to ever adjust it much, I want a setup that is a known upgrade over stock and that's it. If you want to be able to dial in a very specific feel then the B16 is more your speed.

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[shogun32]

The B16's big advantage is that its 2 way adjustable, I

Unless you're reading something I'm not it's a single adjuster. That effects the bleed in both directions.

Anything valved for 350 is almost guaranteed to be valved harder than one built for 200.

 

[junits15]

Unless you're reading something I'm not it's a single adjuster. That effects the bleed in both directions.

Anything valved for 350 is almost guaranteed to be valved harder than one built for 200.

I see that now, I took adjustable rebound and compression to mean two way adjustable.

 

[theslerg]

You can get B6's or B12's on Rockauto.com for a bit cheaper.

I personally have B6's with a Steeda progressive springs and Whiteline adjustable sways bars. I love it!

 

[chuckhammer]

I bought my B6 dampers from J&M last year since Steeda was out of stock. This way you can pair them with your choice of springs.

https://hotpart.com/product/2015-present-s550-ford-mustang-bilstein-b6-front-struts-rear-shocks/

 

[shogun32]

I took adjustable rebound and compression to mean two way adjustable.

in a sane world (eg. Motorcycles) that is the case. In cars, marketing has fewer scruples. Or doesn't know what the words mean.

 

[PsychoPete]

They do…. https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-2423-s550-lowering-springs-bilstein-dampers

It’s what I’ll be going with.

Did you get them? What drop springs are those?

 

[LOL WUT]

Did you get them? What drop springs are those?

I did not, I sold the car before building out the suspension.

 

[junits15]

I did not, I sold the car before building out the suspension.

Sad to hear! What car did you get into after selling the Mustang?

 

[LOL WUT]

Sad to hear! What car did you get into after selling the Mustang?

Long story short the car sat all the time and was only ever enjoyed by me. Sold the car, bought a SXS and started enjoying off-roading with the family.

 

[PsychoPete]

Yeah but the OP wasnt talking about the PSS10 coilover..

FWIW if you lower the car without correcting geometry, you would be increasing body roll. (Unless the springs rates go up a lot to extra compensate) because the roll center drops more than the amount of lowering.

The shocks are a good idea, because the’ll slow the body roll, but they dont limit it.

The swaybars will reduce body roll.

So the big question is the spring rate of those springs.

Why would the body roll increase by lowering it? I think you have it backwards.

 

[PsychoPete]

Lots of replies already, but I'm running

Steeda min drop springs
Bilstein B6 dampers
BMR sways
Steeda front X-brace
BMR CB005 rear braces

Overall, I love it. Sometimes I forget how nice it is, and then I drive a stock GT and I'm like "ewww". I live in the Northeast, and I don't find it too harsh over crappy roads, and I run 275/35-19 Michelin PS4S as my summer tires (stock Pirelli on OEM rims Nov-March).

I'm also running 1/4" spacers in the rear, but I'm willing to admit that's purely aesthetic... Although it doesn't seem to hurt handling too much.

I've having the same springs and B6 dampers installed (I don't have it back yet). Did you really need sway bars?

 

[NightmareMoon]

Why would the body roll increase by lowering it? I think you have it backwards.

Look, I’m not daying its Aliens, but…

Spring rates being equal.. If you drop it past the sweet spot the suspension geometry isnt as good. The body gets more leverage over the confrol arms. Look up roll center. A little drop is fine.

 

[chuckhammer]

What he ^^^ said is correct. However, for my base 300A GT (160/660 F/R), I found that my car rolls considerably less after switching to Steeda Ultralight Linear (200/800). In spite of the worse roll center. Stock sway bars and end links.

 

[NightmareMoon]

What he ^^^ said is correct. However, for my base 300A GT (160/660 F/R), I found that my car rolls considerably less after switching to Steeda Ultralight Linear (200/800). In spite of the worse roll center. Stock sway bars and end links.

2” drop is a lot, more than I’d want on a handling car, but yeah coming from base springs, the increase in stiffness on the ultralight linears is good.

If I could make a recommendation, consider the geomoetry correcting control arms and bumpsteer kit. It should wake up the steering feel on a car lowered that much.

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