If the tender draws 1.5 amps (assuming from a 120v outlet) it is capable of outputting 11.25 amps at 12v assuming 75% charger efficiency. They are variable output so this is just a maximum rating.
Sorry it was a poor choice of words on my part. The tender output is 1500 ma. That's what happens when you get old. The manual for my tender states the output for a 10 feet cable can be 18 gauge.
Truer words were never spoken.Lol what? A 20 gauge wire can take 15amps depending on length. Length and gauge has to be spoken about together
Correct that both matter....power (heat dissipated into the cable) is current squared * R. Length matters more about voltage drop becuase power dissipation is per unit length normalized. How much wattage would be too much depends on length and insulation but lets say that under a half a watt or so per yard is a safer number than higher. R is the resistance of the wire as a function of cross sectional area * length. Gage is in even numbers but otherwise it doubles or halves cross sectional area for every 3 above or below your starting gage if 15 gage existed it would be 2x the cross sectional area and half the resistance of 18 ga and vice verse.Lol what? A 20 gauge wire can take 15amps depending on length. Length and gauge has to be spoken about together
Yes this thread kind of got derailed from its original intent by someone making a statement that he had no clue about the facts of this installation. If it's good enough for Aston Martin to install it on all their cars from the factory I am guessing it is well engineered and is good to go on a Mustang.
I wanted access to the connector from the outside of the car. I drilled through the plastic wheel well liner which is no big deal to me. It is cheap and easily replaced if the next owner does not want the hole and connector. It is not 1965 Shelby.
