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Base System Powered Sub Install w/ Trunk Wiring and LOC

sandpiper

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I know a lot of people here have been using the bolt between the rear seats as the ground. My question is this.... How would you connect the terminal from your ground wire to that large bolt. It's thick and its a 15mm bolt. None of the terminals I have would work on such a large bolt.
I tried that big bolt, but it was really hard to get off. I ended up running the ground to the spare tire well. There is a bracket to hold down a spare tire if you have one. That bracket has two threaded holes. One I used for my spare, the second I found a bolt to fit, sanded the paint off, and grounded the sub there.
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NotMarc

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I know a lot of people here have been using the bolt between the rear seats as the ground. My question is this.... How would you connect the terminal from your ground wire to that large bolt. It's thick and its a 15mm bolt. None of the terminals I have would work on such a large bolt.

As a temporary solution I cut the terminal to make it a "c" instead of a ring. But I ordered terminals on Amazon for less than $8 that fit perfect.


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jsn1

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I'm thinking about ordering the subwoofer enclosure for a Shaker system directly from Ford and then replacing the stock one with mine, what do you think about this? Any other options?
 

Trawn

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I'm thinking about ordering the subwoofer enclosure for a Shaker system directly from Ford and then replacing the stock one with mine, what do you think about this? Any other options?
Well the box was designed for that junk speaker they put in it. If your speakers displacement is the same specs will work great, otherwise you could have a box that will make your sub sound like *%$#.
 

Cueball

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Our cars have been out for well over a year now and Crutchfield still says no research on the Mustang. You would think by now they would have a wiring harness and sub that fit the factory harness and space perfectly and that sound much better. Alas, they s*ck.
 

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dougpaw57

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The subwoofer I got has line-level and high-level inputs. What, if any, is the downside of using the high-level inputs versus buying a separate line out converter?
 
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Edwin

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There shouldn't be a downside. Either way you're tapping into the speaker wires high level inputs. The only reason I'm using a line out converter is because the harness my sub came with was way too short to let me splice into the speaker wires.
 

dougpaw57

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There shouldn't be a downside. Either way you're tapping into the speaker wires high level inputs. The only reason I'm using a line out converter is because the harness my sub came with was way too short to let me splice into the speaker wires.
The length of the harness doesn't matter. Soldering additional speaker wires onto the 6 inch pigtail that came with the sub is a breeze.
 

Lars Olofsson

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I guess when I have some time I'll ohm out the wires on that connector and see if they are the speaker wires. While I'm doing that, I think I'll check the pins on the open connector to see if they pass though the module. It would be nice to get an empty connector and just plug into the open plug on the module. Probably wishful thinking.
Did you find out anything about the wires?
 

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Niz55

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Our cars have been out for well over a year now and Crutchfield still says no research on the Mustang. You would think by now they would have a wiring harness and sub that fit the factory harness and space perfectly and that sound much better. Alas, they s*ck.
Same goes to aftermarket shocks/struts
 

NEED2015GT

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I installed my 2 10 JL w3's and amp with a LOC. With the axxess LOC that I got. I did NOT have to splice into any wires. It comes with a on/off switch built into the LOC. All I did to tap into the speakers was solder the wires to the positive and negative at the bottom of the speakers in the trunk. I put my ground wire behind the carpet to the top right. There is a hole there. I just use a bolt and nut with some lock tight after a little sanding. Running the power wire to the battery was very easy. Going through the passenger side. System sounds great now!
 

5ABI VT

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I installed my 2 10 JL w3's and amp with a LOC. With the axxess LOC that I got. I did NOT have to splice into any wires. It comes with a on/off switch built into the LOC. All I did to tap into the speakers was solder the wires to the positive and negative at the bottom of the speakers in the trunk. I put my ground wire behind the carpet to the top right. There is a hole there. I just use a bolt and nut with some lock tight after a little sanding. Running the power wire to the battery was very easy. Going through the passenger side. System sounds great now!

I posted about this and am doing the exact same thing with connecting to the speaker terminals but Im stumped.. I cant seem to figure out which wires are positive and negative from the bottom side? How did you figure it out? Theres no + or - markings anywhere. I know I can check with a 9v battery but not sure if that's smart with the harness connected to the speaker
 

Ap8823

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Would you say the 10" powered sub is better than the shaker pro sub?
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