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B&O 10" sub replacement guide

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Gregs24

Gregs24

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Just to help people out, here are a few measurements. B&O enclosure: Remember 267mm will fit inside the ridges and about 277 inside the main recess. Maximum depth is 146mm (or 160mm with mild modification) Nothing in excess of 160mm deep will fit without a spacer.

Inner hole size, outer size, depth, sensitivity, dual or single coil (all 4 ohm unless stated)

Pioneer TS-A250D4 (TS-A100D4 in the US) - 230 , 267 , 77, 133, dual (£70)
Dayton RSS265HO-4 - 230, 267, 87, 137, single ($135 NOT UK)
Dayton RSS265HO-44 - 235, 266, 90, 137, dual (will not fit without modification)($155 NOT UK)
Focal RSB-250 - 233, 271, 88, 117, dual (will not fit without modification) (£90)
Rockford Fosgate R2SD4 - 232, 275, 82, 87, dual (will not fit without modification)(£75)
JL10W0V3-4 - 230, 267, 84, 124, single (£100)
Focal 25A4 - 230, 260, 85, 126, single (£80)
Rockford Fosgate R2D4 - 232, 275, 89, 110, single (will not fit without modification) (£70)
Rockford Fosgate P2D4-10 - 232, 280(exc trim ring), 84, 150, dual (will not fit without modification) (£120)
JL10W1V3-4 - 230, 267, 84, 117, single (£200)

UK prices for a guide
Some of these may be unavailable now as it is a while ago but I'm sure there will be something similar.
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CrazyHippie

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Hi! Well, I just finished my sub upgrade to a JL10W1V3-4 and something is definitely not right. The sub response sounds similar to stock, but now my two rear deck speakers sound like I threw a blanket over them - little volume and absolutely no tone. I combined the two positive leads coming from the pair of stock sub connectors to the positive sub terminal and the two negative leads to the sub negative terminal. I'm thinking that I may have a phase problem, or that this sub is mismatched to the stock amp and is sapping current from the rear deck channels. Any advice from others who installed the JL10W1V3-4 before I dig in deeper?

Thanks!
 

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I'm a little thrown off since I BELIEVE the B&O system uses a DSP which I've never messed with before, BUT, in that wiring config, are you not effectively externally bridging the DSP/amp presenting a 2 ohm load up the chain? I'd try an 8 ohm load on it and see what it does, or better yet switch to a DVC. ;)
 
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Hi! Well, I just finished my sub upgrade to a JL10W1V3-4 and something is definitely not right. The sub response sounds similar to stock, but now my two rear deck speakers sound like I threw a blanket over them - little volume and absolutely no tone. I combined the two positive leads coming from the pair of stock sub connectors to the positive sub terminal and the two negative leads to the sub negative terminal. I'm thinking that I may have a phase problem, or that this sub is mismatched to the stock amp and is sapping current from the rear deck channels. Any advice from others who installed the JL10W1V3-4 before I dig in deeper?

Thanks!
In the standard setup the rear speakers don't produce much sound anyway.

Try disconnecting the sub and see if the rear speakers change. Remember some of the sub sound is coming up through the rear speakers so if you have got the speaker connected the wrong way around then it will be out of phase with the rear speaker cones.

Also try driving the sub with just one of the supplies as it is only single voice coil
 

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CrazyHippie

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In the standard setup the rear speakers don't produce much sound anyway.

Try disconnecting the sub and see if the rear speakers change. Remember some of the sub sound is coming up through the rear speakers so if you have got the speaker connected the wrong way around then it will be out of phase with the rear speaker cones.

Also try driving the sub with just one of the supplies as it is only single voice coil
Thanks!
 

CrazyHippie

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In the standard setup the rear speakers don't produce much sound anyway.

Try disconnecting the sub and see if the rear speakers change. Remember some of the sub sound is coming up through the rear speakers so if you have got the speaker connected the wrong way around then it will be out of phase with the rear speaker cones.

Also try driving the sub with just one of the supplies as it is only single voice coil
Well, as it turns out, the way that I installed my sub was correct. I disconnected the sub box and there was no difference in sound from the other speakers. So I reconnected it and the systen sounds better. Either I had a poor connection at the box, or possibly just bad radio reception before. Or, maybe I'm just starting to appreciate the lack of overall quality in the B&O sound. My wife just got a '24 CRV with a Bose system in it and that blows the B&O away. Thanks again.
 

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Well, as it turns out, the way that I installed my sub was correct. I disconnected the sub box and there was no difference in sound from the other speakers. So I reconnected it and the systen sounds better. Either I had a poor connection at the box, or possibly just bad radio reception before. Or, maybe I'm just starting to appreciate the lack of overall quality in the B&O sound. My wife just got a '24 CRV with a Bose system in it and that blows the B&O away. Thanks again.
Now you have the itch…time to do a full system swap! 🤣
 

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Well, as it turns out, the way that I installed my sub was correct. I disconnected the sub box and there was no difference in sound from the other speakers. So I reconnected it and the systen sounds better. Either I had a poor connection at the box, or possibly just bad radio reception before. Or, maybe I'm just starting to appreciate the lack of overall quality in the B&O sound. My wife just got a '24 CRV with a Bose system in it and that blows the B&O away. Thanks again.
It's not even B&O components...the amp is Sony. I don't miss it.
 
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Gregs24

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It's not even B&O components...the amp is Sony. I don't miss it.
It isn't Sony either as Ford's Sony equipment was actually made by Visteon.

Car makers don't generally buy the 'brand' own equipment. They have a licensing deal with the audio maker for technical input and marketing reasons.

Ford have a relationship with Harman for their B&O Play brand, although the 'play' bit seems to have been dropped. Pretty sure the speakers are still made by Visteon.
 

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Would there be any value to cover the outside of the stock sub enclosure with sound deadening product? How about coating the inside of the quarter panel wall just outside of sub box. Not much that one can get to as far as access to apply the deadening sheet but...has anyone gone that far and stuck some on the sheet metal?
 

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Would there be any value to cover the outside of the stock sub enclosure with sound deadening product? How about coating the inside of the quarter panel wall just outside of sub box. Not much that one can get to as far as access to apply the deadening sheet but...has anyone gone that far and stuck some on the sheet metal?
I’ve deadened the entire trunk. I didn’t get too many pics though.

IMG_9256.jpeg

IMG_9254.jpeg
 

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No deadening on the quarter panel? Yeah, I know, not much to cover anyway.

146mm max depth on the stock box then. I'll assume 146mm for a 2020 Mustang GT Convert?
 

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No deadening on the quarter panel? Yeah, I know, not much to cover anyway.

146mm max depth on the stock box then. I'll assume 146mm for a 2020 Mustang GT Convert?
As I stated I didn’t take pics of everything so what you see is not the final product. I have deadening everywhere there is flat surfaces.
 

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So I started reading this article while out of the country several weeks ago finished it up this morning. Went to Amazon several times to look for the pioneer speaker and it was either 100 or a little over $100 however, last night I was reading and decided to check Amazon again, well it was 69.90. So I purchased the speaker, the pigtail extensions and some poly-fil.

I thank everybody for all their advice and all the different scenarios for installing different speakers and all the tips on how not to screw up the outside ring removal or any of the plastic parts on the enclosure.
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