ARP extended wheels studs installed !

[krishelnino]

Thanks to everyone on the forum who helped me in getting this setup. @Wolverine @1 old racer @ApexRaceParts @BmacIL @1bad66 and finally @Optimum Performance for shipping the items quick. Their service wasn't great as I PM'ed them, called them and emailed multiple times but no response, however the shipping was super quick so i'm happy and not complaining.

This is my winter setup until next year when I'll be switching to 305 square setup. I'm lowered on FP track handling kit 1" all around and the spacers made a huge difference as i wanted the flush look. I got the high quality slip-on spacers from OPMustang and not the cheap bolt-on adapter type. They are definitely hub and wheel centric and i was impressed with the quality of these. I've noticed a significant improvement in ride quality and handling after installing the spacers, doesn't make sense but i can already feel it.

I got the following parts and got them installed at a local shop.
ARP 1" Extended M14x1.5 Studs: 100-7733 (all 4 wheels)
OP mustang hub and wheel centric 25mm (Front), 20mm (rear) spacers
Gorilla 26143BC duplex spline lug nuts

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[Apex Wheels]

Looks really nice, funny how good those cars look with proper offsets and really no other changes. Glad to see you did it the right way with ARP studs and Tim's spacers.

- Cory

 

[NightmareMoon]

Ya looks sharp!

 

[MtnBiker]

That's the way to do it. Much stronger than the bolt on type. Looks good. Did the same on mine. Been very happy with the setup.

 

[whalesalad]

I am in the process of this right now. Just ordered the OP Mustang open lug nuts. A friend of mine manufactures spacers so I will go that route to save a few pennies ... and he also has dealer pricing with ARP so trying to snag those for a bit of a discount as well.

How hard was the work? Do you just hammer them out and pull the new ones in with a lug nut or did you need to disassemble the hub?

 

[MtnBiker]

[QUOTE="How hard was the work? Do you just hammer them out and pull the new ones in with a lug nut or did you need to disassemble the hub?[/QUOTE]

The "right" way to do it is remove the hub and press out the old studs, press in new. Hammering out the studs is hard on your wheel bearings. And pressing in will seat the new ones better so you aren't chasing torque settings for a week after the install. If you go that route pay attention to the one-time-use fasteners.

 

[Wolverine]

Looks good @krishelnino! Happy I could help get you set up!

Did you specifically request the spacers with lightening-slots milled in between the lug holes or do they all come like that now? Nice little weight saver there.

 

[krishelnino]

I am in the process of this right now. Just ordered the OP Mustang open lug nuts. A friend of mine manufactures spacers so I will go that route to save a few pennies ... and he also has dealer pricing with ARP so trying to snag those for a bit of a discount as well.

How hard was the work? Do you just hammer them out and pull the new ones in with a lug nut or did you need to disassemble the hub?

I got them installed at a local shop which works on a lot of Mustangs in my area. The existing studs were hammered out while on the car, they came off very easy i was surprised how they came out with minimal force. The new studs on front hubs were pulled in using open ended lugs and impact wrench. This caused some circular indentations on the hub surface, i wasn't too happy about it. But he smoothed and polished them out, told me it wasn't nothing to worry about. The rear hubs were removed off the car and new studs were pressed in using some tool on a bench. One of the stud refused to get in completely so it took some hammering. Also, one of the spacers on rear hub was a very tight fit on the studs and required hammering it to push it in.

 

[krishelnino]

Looks good @krishelnino! Happy I could help get you set up!

Did you specifically request the spacers with lightening-slots milled in between the lug holes or do they all come like that now? Nice little weight saver there.

The design was updated for weight savings while maintaining the same strength. That is what it says on their website. They were really light when i held them in my hand.

 

[69mach1-395]

OP, what did parts and labor run for this mod?

 

[krishelnino]

OP, what did parts and labor run for this mod?

Spacers+ extend studs - 508
Lug Nuts - 56
Labor ~ 200

So all in around 750 bucks.

 

[Norm Peterson]

The new studs on front hubs were pulled in using open ended lugs and impact wrench.

Poor practice, but it's common because it's quick and the average tire and lube tech doesn't think past what's handy that'll get the job done at all.

I've replaced more than a few studs, and I'll use a stack of stainless steel flat washers and a regular hex nut of appropriate thread. You want stainless rather than zinc-plated for the smooth surface finish, and you will need to restrain the whole business from rotating (brakes with an assistant or applied P-brake if rear being best). With a little grease between a couple of the washers and a little on the stud threads you can draw the stud tight with little more than normal effort on a 1/2" ratchet or maybe a normal-length breaker bar. Just be absolutely sure you wash the grease off the stud threads when you're done.

It just so happens I've got a car up in the air for an unrelated matter, so it was really easy to go get a picture. Hope it helps.

One of the stud refused to get in completely so it took some hammering. Also, one of the spacers on rear hub was a very tight fit on the studs and required hammering it to push it in.

It sounds like that one stud pulled in ever-so-slightly crooked. Not good. Hopefully they did get it squared up, otherwise you could be in for a wheel that won't center (vibrates kind of like an unbalanced wheel/tire does).

My approach with flat washers and the flat-faced nut avoids this entirely.


Norm

 

[krishelnino]

Poor practice, but it's common because it's quick and the average tire and lube tech doesn't think past what's handy that'll get the job done at all.

I've replaced more than a few studs, and I'll use a stack of stainless steel flat washers and a regular hex nut of appropriate thread. You want stainless rather than zinc-plated for the smooth surface finish, and you will need to restrain the whole business from rotating (brakes with an assistant or applied P-brake if rear being best). With a little grease between a couple of the washers and a little on the stud threads you can draw the stud tight with little more than normal effort on a 1/2" ratchet or maybe a normal-length breaker bar. Just be absolutely sure you wash the grease off the stud threads when you're done.

It just so happens I've got a car up in the air for an unrelated matter, so it was really easy to go get a picture. Hope it helps.

It sounds like that one stud pulled in ever-so-slightly crooked. Not good. Hopefully they did get it squared up, otherwise you could be in for a wheel that won't center (vibrates kind of like an unbalanced wheel/tire does).

My approach with flat washers and the flat-faced nut avoids this entirely.


Norm

I agree this isn't a ideal way to install and wouldn't recommend it to anyone.

But he is very good at what he does and installed suspension kits, lowering springs on over 100 S550s in our group and most people go to him for anything that needs to be done. He has a S550 himself. I couldn't find any other dealer or shop that agreed to install this for a reasonable price, either the quotes were ridiculous and i wouldn't trust someone who never worked on this to do it right. I took it here and he allows customers to watch while he installs anything.

I've considered getting the whole hub assembly kit from Ford Performance with extended studs pre-assembled. That would mean an additional $450 in parts and doesn't involve any of this since the hubs would be swapped and bolted on directly. But in the end, i decided against it.

After the install, he took it on a test drive with me in the car to check everything. I haven't had any issues so far, the car drives smooth and handles great. Only time will tell if something goes wrong and fingers crossed it doesn't, but if it does I'll be replacing the whole hub assembly next time. He also asked me to come back in a week to retorque the lug nuts, and when I go I'll ask him to double check everything.

Btw, this is a pic of the problematic hub

 

[Scott]

On my S197 I used a small bearing and it made it very easy to pull the ARP studs through. I don't see why this would not work on the S550. Will update when I get around to it.

 

[1bad66]

Use a Lisle stud installer, makes install simple and effective. It uses a bearing and a conical seat for the lug nut to sit in, works great. Can be had on Amazon, Summit, Jegs etc..
https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/wheel-stud-installer

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