Steering rack wheel size/Extended wheel studs or rack limiter to solve rubbing

[HourlyB]

So I have a twofer jumping off a issue I'm having with my steering gear and wheels; my current one is suffering some sort of problem (not sure what but it's giving off the DTC codes C1B00:00-0B, C200B:61-08, U0415:00-48) and I need to get a new one.

The one suggested by Lakeland Ford for my car's VIN is " GR3Z3504J " however since I have wider front tires (285 on 10" wide wheels vs 235 on 8"), would it be better off getting one from a GT350 (JR3Z3504G) or would that cause problems with the BCM?

To the second issue; my wheels have been rubbing at max lock on the inside. I'm wondering what might be the better solution to the problem, rack limiters or Extended Studs + spacer. Since the rack is getting taken out it'll be easy to put the limiter on but I don't know how much it will effect the drivability of the car. For the spacer/studs, I already have a 5mm spacer but with stock studs the lug nuts became loose after driving. Spacer might also lead to better fitment but could lead to similar effects on handling. Anyone have any experience or suggestions?

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[luc]

So I have a twofer jumping off a issue I'm having with my steering gear and wheels; my current one is suffering some sort of problem (not sure what but it's giving off the DTC codes C1B00:00-0B, C200B:61-08, U0415:00-48) and I need to get a new one.

The one suggested by Lakeland Ford for my car's VIN is " GR3Z3504J " however since I have wider front tires (285 on 10" wide wheels vs 235 on 8"), would it be better off getting one from a GT350 (JR3Z3504G) or would that cause problems with the BCM?

To the second issue; my wheels have been rubbing at max lock on the inside. I'm wondering what might be the better solution to the problem, rack limiters or Extended Studs + spacer. Since the rack is getting taken out it'll be easy to put the limiter on but I don't know how much it will effect the drivability of the car. For the spacer/studs, I already have a 5mm spacer but with stock studs the lug nuts became loose after driving. Spacer might also lead to better fitment but could lead to similar effects on handling. Anyone have any experience or suggestions?

If you are rubbing with 285 AND spacers, your wheels offset is wrong
You need the right wheels to fix the problem. Not band aid
On a 10” wheel, correct offset is 35mm

 

[HourlyB]

If you are rubbing with 285 AND spacers, your wheels offset is wrong
You need the right wheels to fix the problem. Not band aid
On a 10” wheel, correct offset is 35mm

Sorry, my phrasing wasn't clear; they are rubbing without spacers (my wheels are sve r357s, which are +35mm offset iirc), but with spacers the lug nuts get loose with highway driving.

 

[Farkel]

Many people on this forum run SVE (and other) 10" +35 wheels with 285s and this is the first I've heard of a rubbing issue. I'm not doubting you, but have you modified any suspension parts that might have contributed to the problem?

 

[HourlyB]

Many people on this forum run SVE (and other) 10" +35 wheels with 285s and this is the first I've heard of a rubbing issue. I'm not doubting you, but have you modified any suspension parts that might have contributed to the problem?

Oh yeah, I absolutely have; specifically I'm pretty sure it's the Steeda lateral link control arms which is part of their Bumpsteer kit since their install instructions mentions rubbing at full lock with different wheels.

This is a old pic of the rubbing, but it's definitely still there and has now rubbed the paint off the chassis at this point.
I've modified my car for handling which has had unintended but not unexpected consequences, I'm just trying to figure out what is the optimal solution to the problem.

 

[NightmareMoon]

1) What camber? How is the camber achieved (bolts or plates?)

2) what torque are you running on the wheels?

I ask because after running 5mm spacer and 19x10 ET35 wheels for 7 years, rubbing hasnt been an issue for me with the 285 tires. I rub sometimes with my 315 front tires, sure, but they’re more than a full inch wider (w/ different offsets).

And wheel lig nuts with 7 turns of engagement (as you should be getting with a 5mm spacer) should never come loose, ever, so something is unusual about that story.

When you tighten them down, hopefully its with a good quality torque wrench and hopefully the tires arent getting pulled hard in a direction, as happens when you lower a car off a floor jack. If you roll the car a few feet before doing final torque that can let the tires relax the sideways tension from coming off a jack.

 

[HourlyB]

1) What camber? How is the camber achieved (bolts or plates?)

2) what torque are you running on the wheels?

I ask because after running 5mm spacer and 19x10 ET35 wheels for 7 years, rubbing hasnt been an issue for me with the 285 tires. I rub sometimes with my 315 front tires, sure, but they’re more than a full inch wider (w/ different offsets).

And wheel lig nuts with 7 turns of engagement (as you should be getting with a 5mm spacer) should never come loose, ever, so something is unusual about that story.

When you tighten them down, hopefully its with a good quality torque wrench and hopefully the tires arent getting pulled hard in a direction, as happens when you lower a car off a floor jack. If you roll the car a few feet before doing final torque that can let the tires relax the sideways tension from coming off a jack.

1. Camber is at I believe -2.2 degrees at the front with Maximum Motorsport plates (I don't have the alignment sheet with me currently
2. I'm using stock torque, 150 lbs/ft, with this wrench

I put 5mm spacers on the front wheels, drove for about 50 miles including highway driving and when I got out I had to torque the wheels to 150 again with about a quarter (maybe half) a turn, then had to do it again when I got back home.

 

[luc]

Oh yeah, I absolutely have; specifically I'm pretty sure it's the Steeda lateral link control arms which is part of their Bumpsteer kit since their install instructions mentions rubbing at full lock with different wheels.

This is a old pic of the rubbing, but it's definitely still there and has now rubbed the paint off the chassis at this point.
I've modified my car for handling which has had unintended but not unexpected consequences, I'm just trying to figure out what is the optimal solution to the problem.

Y
There is way to modify a car for better handling without running into those issues. Bad parts design in my book
I run 305 all around with no rubbing whatsoever

 

[NightmareMoon]

1. Camber is at I believe -2.2 degrees at the front with Maximum Motorsport plates (I don't have the alignment sheet with me currently
2. I'm using stock torque, 150 lbs/ft, with this wrench

I put 5mm spacers on the front wheels, drove for about 50 miles including highway driving and when I got out I had to torque the wheels to 150 again with about a quarter (maybe half) a turn, then had to do it again when I got back home.

That's so strange. lug nuts (even stockers) should not be losing torque that much (at all) if they're torqued right first time. and needing three torques after 200 miles is completely bonkers. Something is wrong. 150 is a lot of torque. Its not going to just back off unless something is not rigid in that stack. If the stock lug juts jackets are getting old, they'll spin without the actual inner part moving.

If you're lazy and don't torque them right the first time (i.e. if the tires or something have a lot of preload), then maybe they might need to be checked after a short drive (or just a short roll will do it) but they should absolutely be rock solid after the 2nd time..

There's no world where any good quality aluminum spacer (aluminum is plenty rigid in compression for this application) will squish enough to loose 1/4" turn or more to torque after being torqed twice already. Not in 500 miles of driving and not in 5000.

So next I'd ask if you've ever run any hub centering rings, I'd ask if you've replaced your brake calipers with larger ones or anything (something contacting the wheel in a strange place), I'd look very very closely to make sure your tires aren't contacting something like the stut (that would do what you're saying). The wheel should spin freely.

I'd ask to see the hub centering rings (i.e the rotors) with the wheel removed and to see the backside of the wheel mounting area, and I'd want to see the spacers themselves. Basically I'm assuming something is in there which is stopping the wheel from seating properly, something which would squish a bit under that heavy clamping load... something like a smashed remnant of a plastic hub centering ring, or a stock (two piece) lug nut that's coming apart. something is amiss.

 

[HourlyB]

That's so strange. lug nuts (even stockers) should not be losing torque that much (at all) if they're torqued right first time. and needing three torques after 200 miles is completely bonkers. Something is wrong. 150 is a lot of torque. Its not going to just back off unless something is not rigid in that stack. If the stock lug juts jackets are getting old, they'll spin without the actual inner part moving.

If you're lazy and don't torque them right the first time (i.e. if the tires or something have a lot of preload), then maybe they might need to be checked after a short drive (or just a short roll will do it) but they should absolutely be rock solid after the 2nd time..

There's no world where any good quality aluminum spacer (aluminum is plenty rigid in compression for this application) will squish enough to loose 1/4" turn or more to torque after being torqed twice already. Not in 500 miles of driving and not in 5000.

So next I'd ask if you've ever run any hub centering rings, I'd ask if you've replaced your brake calipers with larger ones or anything (something contacting the wheel in a strange place), I'd look very very closely to make sure your tires aren't contacting something like the stut (that would do what you're saying). The wheel should spin freely.

I'd ask to see the hub centering rings (i.e the rotors) with the wheel removed and to see the backside of the wheel mounting area, and I'd want to see the spacers themselves. Basically I'm assuming something is in there which is stopping the wheel from seating properly, something which would squish a bit under that heavy clamping load... something like a smashed remnant of a plastic hub centering ring, or a stock (two piece) lug nut that's coming apart. something is amiss.

At the time I was testing out the spacer, it had the stock GT brake calipers. The lug nuts were some spline drives that I had to pic up from Autozone since the ones that shipped with the SVEs got lost, not the stock OEM nuts. The spacers were Eibach 5mms, and I do not believe I used a hub centering ring or anything at the time, I don't use them now in any case. Now the car has the PP Brembos on, so maybe the situation is different now.

I lifted the front of the car up yesterday to check for play in the steering components and as far as I can tell, the wheels spin just fine, but I can check again. I know the rotors have a little bit of rust on the face as does the rim, but nothing too bad. I'll check them as well. (To clean them would I just use steel wool or is there a better solution?)

Looking back at my build thread, I had apparently found out that the 5mm spacers only solved the rubbing on one side of the car anyway. 10mm might be what's needed, but if I have a problem at 5mm I doubt double will be much better.

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