Anyone get the Handling Package but wish they didn't?

[bozack]

I would say the Cup2's on the HP are a huge waste of money unless it's a track car so in my opinion buy the non-HP and add spoiler...etc to your liking is a better choice for you. Also use that extra money you saved to buy a set of winter or all-season tire/wheel combo.
Don't get me wrong, love the HP Mach but just not practical as a daily for most people.

it was really the rims that did it for me with selecting it, as I liked the honeycomb style and the spoiler, figure I can always dump the tires and only plan on driving this when it is nice out. I will just have to tell the dealer don't install the splitter as I don't want to deal with that and will just keep it in the garage.

Sponsored

 

[Zelek]

I can say one thing though. The loaded Mach 1 HP makes me feel like there isn't much I need to do in the mod category. I did all the bolt on and suspension stuff on my 2017. Had a wonderful time doing everything but I don't think I want to try and go through it all again. I'm honestly very satisfied with how the car came from the factory. Even the shifter doesn't need an MGW because the Tremec is great.

 

[TonyNJ]

Greetings from Boston. A good summer street tire is continental ECS. If you sell the CUP 2 right away it should be a cheap swap.

I did just that with a PP2 car with exact size swap. It was great for NJ's shitty roads and weather.

 

[TonyNJ]

I am conflicted on the splitter and wonder if it will be more of a nuisance

and the tires, figure those will have to get swapped out

The splitter looks great and isn't difficult to remove if it gets in the way. You could also easily sell it too. Enjoy the options you will have.

 

[bozack]

The splitter looks great and isn't difficult to remove if it gets in the way. You could also easily sell it too. Enjoy the options you will have.

Thanks that is if the order comes through, fingers crossed

 

[Charlemagne]

Mustang really should have front camera. Otherwise it's best to park backwards everywhere.

Height-wise, the splitter isn't lowest part on the car actually so that shouldn't be a problem, if you avoid too big slopes. But just for looks it's more trouble than it's worth imo. The standard splitter is awesome, it's bigger than 911 GT3 RS has, haha. Rear wing with wheels and tyres of your choice costs far less than the HP pack if track duty is not important for you.

 

[S550VIN54]

I would say it’s more like touring car and race car from a visual standpoint. The HP car to me says it belongs on the track. The base car says high performance street car. The funny thing is the base car is a better track car than the HP is at being a street car

Until you change tires!

 

[Atlas1]

Until you change tires!

There’s still the issue of the splitter though!

 

[Kermut]

700a upgrade really only gets you the All Leather Seating with heat and cool and aluminum pedals, maybe one or two other small things.

Yea it's $1,900 for leather seats with memory function, heat cool, heated steering wheels, and the aluminum pedals. Personally, I couldn't fathom buying a $50k+ car without leather seats, so it seemed like an obvious choice. Of all the options, that one seemed very reasonably priced.

I guess if this car was for 90%+ track use I would have gone the 600a base and ripped out the seats/ordered the cloth Recaros, but that's the only scenario where it makes sense.

 

[Rynoe]

I ordered mine without it. My reasoning was if I wanted it, that's 6 semi-cheap ford parts to buy later:

My understanding was the HP included a front splitter, GT350 spoiler, HP wheels, adjustable strut mounts, and chassis specific tuning. I think the Chassis tuning is just the solid rear sway bar and stiffer springs. All of which I feel are very easy to add on. (feel free to correct me if there is more chassis tuning than that )

 

[RandomTask]

I ordered mine without it. My reasoning was if I wanted it, that's 6 semi-cheap ford parts to buy later:

My understanding was the HP included a front splitter, GT350 spoiler, HP wheels, adjustable strut mounts, and chassis specific tuning. I think the Chassis tuning is just the solid rear sway bar and stiffer springs. All of which I feel are very easy to add on. (feel free to correct me if there is more chassis tuning than that )

Don’t forget front wheel moldings and rear tire spats too!

 

[Zelek]

The splitter looks great and isn't difficult to remove if it gets in the way. You could also easily sell it too. Enjoy the options you will have.

The splitter also has 23 rivets in it that make it not so friendly to take off and put back on unless you don't mind replacing rivets every time. Granted I think the splitter would hold just fine without the rivets and just the screws, the instructions call for all of the rivets to be put in.

 

[Gnatsum21]

Just to add on, my Mach does not have NAV but definitely has Sirius XM.

Waze is much better, but yes, it requires the dreaded USB cable. I have the built in NAV.. let me tell you, trying the NAV to convince to "navigate" to Lowe's seems in impossible task. It just doesn't get it. Once the NAV actually turned on the radio, probably ran out of ideas where to go. The word does not exist in the NAV's vocabulary. Not an issue with Waze.

 

[murick]

I already wrote it somewhere, but I would reiterate it here with warning that I have no experience with wide tyres. I only drove the narrow ones and more narrow ones, and this is just a thought of an armchair physicist.

Widening the tyre will make the contact surface larger, which will make the pressure over the surface smaller, which will make the sensitivity to the road imperfection larger. In other words, the tyre on the road which is uneven, has some rocks, or sand, will have less traction.

Plus the wider contact surface will make anything caught up on the tyre side having larger impact (lever) on the steering. In other words the steering will be easier to distort.

The pressure (and traction) can be mitigated by increasing the downforce (by using the spoiler), but it only works from certain air speed, most likely on a track only.

So my conclusion (not that I had to decide as HP is not available on Euro Mach) was that it only would make sense to get the wider tyres (and wheels) if I would track the car more than drive it in a normal traffic and on a normal road (not track prepped surface). If I ever were changing anything about the wheels, it will be their weight by going for forged ones (which I am not sure really pays off in a normal use).

Anyway, what I concluded, is that getting HP is really a track upgrade which makes everything else worse (for daily or normal traffic and driving conditions). I understand that lot of folks take it for looks and nothing wrong about that, but I wonder if anyone who actually took HP, made similar thought exercise and what were their conclusion. Or if by experience they know that my armchair analysis is either wrong or non issue - in that case I would be happy to be corrected.

 

[Rynoe]

Don’t forget front wheel moldings and rear tire spats too!

Oh definitely forgot about those! *8 parts lol my bad.

Sponsored