Another one down (EB to GT)

[Stormtrooper5.0]

Damn why does it seem like yall trade it in so easily. I once tried it but ill be in a lot of negative and id be required to put like 5k down..goddamn

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[berserker_sid]

Damn why does it seem like yall trade it in so easily. I once tried it but ill be in a lot of negative and id be required to put like 5k down..goddamn

my dear friend.. here is the trick.

1. keep an eye on market.
2. have good negotiating skills.
3. keep a track on ur equity.
4. Financial planning

 

[Glenn G]

Damn why does it seem like yall trade it in so easily. I once tried it but ill be in a lot of negative and id be required to put like 5k down..goddamn

Probably because the dealer can move the Ecoboost far easier than a V6.
Please don't take this as ragging on the V6, it's not, just facts.
To Most people, other than a small subset mostly on forums like this, the EB offers more power, torque and fuel economy than the V6 for not really a lot more money. plus the availability of options sways most people who couldn't give a shit about what engine is in their car.
I bought my Base MT EB with 0 options for 24000.
Kbb.com (See First attachment). says my Dealer trade in range is $21,433 to $23,135 meaning I could trade it in right now and only lose $860 in the best case or $2,500 at the worst.
The V6 is not fairing as well in depreciation (see second attachment).
Specced identically to my EB down to the color and Spoiler Kbb.com
MAS offered me the V6 at 22,900.
According to KBB I would be losing $2,500 in the best case. and near $4k in the worst.
Talking to my Sales Rep they cant really move those V6's they still have new '15 V6s on lots here heavily discounted and still can't move them. Imagine how hard it would be to move a used one? They would lose money even if they gave you the lowest value on KBB. They can barely keep EBs in supply so the chance to sell one without heavy discounts is much higher.

It's just a numbers game

 

[Rough Hollow Man]

^^^Now this is information that is documented with some background that is helpful...kudos to Glenn G for his research and posting. And also I have found that anyone that spells their name "Glenn" with two "ns" is to be believed....oh my name is GLENN also...spelled the same.

 

[15wile]

Side note: what is all this noise about "you're gonna give $5k to the dealers" anyway? What are you losing? The GT is more expensive in equivalent trim. That's a fact. You'd pay that either way.

If you lose $5k in net worth simple by buying a car, you're doing it wrong.

 

[Spartan]

^^^Now this is information that is documented with some background that is helpful...kudos to Glenn G for his research and posting. And also I have found that anyone that spells their name "Glenn" with two "ns" is to be believed....oh my name is GLENN also...spelled the same.

Bar none it's the options for the EB.

The better MPG/fuel savings is not accurate. Because you have to fill up with premium vs regular for the V6, the V6 actually gets more MPG then the EB head to head when you do it by money spent per fill up. For what it costs you to fill up your tank with premium you get an extra 4 gallons bought with regular. That extra 4 gallons ads up to another 80 miles. You get something like 412 miles gas spent in the V6 vs for the same money 375 miles in the EB. So something like 37 extra miles per money spent.

 

[Maggneto]

Side note: what is all this noise about "you're gonna give $5k to the dealers" anyway? What are you losing? The GT is more expensive in equivalent trim. That's a fact. You'd pay that either way.

If you lose $5k in net worth simple by buying a car, you're doing it wrong.

Depreciation is 5k-10k a year for 1-3 years + Tax, Title, Docs every time you buy a car is about 1.5k - 2k alone. Trading in a 1 or 2 year old car is going to cost you plenty.

You may not be doing the math correctly and adding in all the expenses of buying a new car including depreciation.

For instance, My 2015 EB was MSRP of 37k, out the door for 32.5. I paid the Tax, Title, Doc fee so if I add that in I am at 34k. If I trade in this car after less than 1 year with only 3k mile I will get 27k if I am lucky. I owe 29.5k so I am at best 2.5k in the hole + Title, Tax, Doc fees of 1.5k = 4k lost in the transaction.

How does your math work?

 

[Spartan]

Depreciation is 5k-10k a year for 1-3 years + Tax, Title, Docs every time you buy a car is about 1.5k - 2k alone. Trading in a 1 or 2 year old car is going to cost you plenty.

You may not be doing the math correctly and adding in all the expenses of buying a new car including depreciation.

For instance, My 2015 EB was MSRP of 37k, out the door for 32.5. I paid the Tax, Title, Doc fee so if I add that in I am at 34k. If I trade in this car after less than 1 year with only 3k mile I will get 27k if I am lucky. I own 29.5k so I am at best 2.5k in the hole + Title, Tax, Doc fees of 1.5k = 4k lost in the transaction.

How does your math work?

I almost bought a used 2016 GT over the weekend. Guy had traded it in for a new porsche. It was a fully loaded auto GT with everything...MSRP on it was like 46K. They were selling it for 34k. Guy took a big big hit if they were selling it for that. Most likely got 30k. If you read the Edmunds long term test after 20000 miles their 45K GT was only worth 28K.

Only reason I didnt bite was that he had modded it and I just didn't trust his reasons for trading it in from the dealer.

 

[5pointOh]

I almost bought a used 2016 GT over the weekend. Guy had traded it in for a new porsche. It was a fully loaded auto GT with everything...MSRP on it was like 46K. They were selling it for 34k. Guy took a big big hit if they were selling it for that. Most likely got 30k. If you read the Edmunds long term test after 20000 miles their 45K GT was only worth 28K.

Only reason I didnt bite was that he had modded it and I just didn't trust his reasons for trading it in from the dealer.

Probably would have been fine, money is likely not an issue if he traded for a Porsche... probably got sick of of his country club buddies ragging on him for driving a Ford. Even modded he probably didnt beat on it. When I sold Dodges back in the day there was a guy who got like 2k a week inheritance from his grandparents, had an 05 Viper Roadster with a fully built motor, race damper set up, the whole 9 yards.....couldnt drive the thing to save his life and never once saw a track. He was in trading cars left and right, like once a month.

 

[Spartan]

Probably would have been fine, money is likely not an issue if he traded for a Porsche... probably got sick of of his country club buddies ragging on him for driving a Ford. Even modded he probably didnt beat on it. When I sold Dodges back in the day there was a guy who got like 2k a week inheritance from his grandparents, had an 05 Viper Roadster with a fully built motor, race damper set up, the whole 9 yards.....couldnt drive the thing to save his life and never once saw a track. He was in trading cars left and right, like once a month.

Yah probably would have been fine but dropping that much I just couldn't take the risk. The Porsche guy said he didn't like the Mustang after having it for a few months...wasn't what he expected in the long run and wanted something nicer like a Porsche.

 

[erne75]

The assumption that all Mustang owners secretly wish they had a GT is a pretentious and childish orgy of stupidity.

Guilty as charged...

Why wouldnt you want this mighty 5 liter V8 instead of a measly 4 banger that is half the displacement? Do you want the power that forced induction brings to the table? Here is an idea: add a supercharger or turbocharges to your mighty V8.

 

[Stormtrooper5.0]

Probably because the dealer can move the Ecoboost far easier than a V6.
Please don't take this as ragging on the V6, it's not, just facts.
To Most people, other than a small subset mostly on forums like this, the EB offers more power, torque and fuel economy than the V6 for not really a lot more money. plus the availability of options sways most people who couldn't give a shit about what engine is in their car.
I bought my Base MT EB with 0 options for 24000.
Kbb.com (See First attachment). says my Dealer trade in range is $21,433 to $23,135 meaning I could trade it in right now and only lose $860 in the best case or $2,500 at the worst.
The V6 is not fairing as well in depreciation (see second attachment).
Specced identically to my EB down to the color and Spoiler Kbb.com
MAS offered me the V6 at 22,900.
According to KBB I would be losing $2,500 in the best case. and near $4k in the worst.
Talking to my Sales Rep they cant really move those V6's they still have new '15 V6s on lots here heavily discounted and still can't move them. Imagine how hard it would be to move a used one? They would lose money even if they gave you the lowest value on KBB. They can barely keep EBs in supply so the chance to sell one without heavy discounts is much higher.

It's just a numbers game

Yea I had issues because I traded in my previous Sentra for my V6 Mustang and lost a lot of money on that.

Then I looked to trade in my V6 for the GT. I was in a lot of negative equity which sucks. So last October I attempted to trade in my V6 for the GT. The dealer was willing to buy my v6 for $20k. They wanted 5k as a down payment and I did not have that much, even if I had the 5k for the down payment, my monthly payments would have shot up the heavens. I gave up on trying to get a GT because I wouldn’t be able to afford the down and the monthly was going to be ridiculous.

I figure the best way to get a GT now is to wait until my negative equity evens out with the cars worth. Which at the rate im going, will take an unthinkable amount of time. The s650 may already be out by that time lol.

 

[15wile]

Depreciation is 5k-10k a year for 1-3 years + Tax, Title, Docs every time you buy a car is about 1.5k - 2k alone. Trading in a 1 or 2 year old car is going to cost you plenty.

Docs 1.5-2k? Don't know where you're shopping man. Hell, join the Mustang Club of America. X-Plan pricing means no dealer/doc fees (except gov't fees). In my state you only pay tax on the difference between trade and new purchase. I know it's different in some states, though.

Anyway, there's this pervasive myth that the second you drive a car off the lot, it suddenly loses all this value, just by virtue of you sitting your ass in it and taking it home. It's not true (unless the dealer bent you over pretty bad). Most of those studies are based on MSRP. Of COURSE the car isn't worth MSRP when you drive it off the lot -- it was never worth that to begin with, and if you paid sticker or close to, you got ripped off (GT350 buyers excepted, of course).

Now, over the course of a few years, yeah, you'll take a big depreciation hit. Especially if you're like me and you put boatloads of miles on your cars. But here's the thing, you're going to get depreciation *anyway* no matter what. If you drive any newish car, it's expensive.

When I went EB to GT, I had the EB for like two months. Trade in value was something like $1000 less than my purchase price (I'd have to go back and look to give you exact figures, but if anything, it was LESS than that, not more). And I got X-plan pricing on the and the waived doc fees that implies on the GT. I paid double on the state doc stamp fee (like $100). That was it.

Switching cost me about a grand.

You may not be doing the math correctly and adding in all the expenses of buying a new car including depreciation.

For instance, My 2015 EB was MSRP of 37k, out the door for 32.5. I paid the Tax, Title, Doc fee so if I add that in I am at 34k. If I trade in this car after less than 1 year with only 3k mile I will get 27k if I am lucky. I owe 29.5k so I am at best 2.5k in the hole + Title, Tax, Doc fees of 1.5k = 4k lost in the transaction.

How does your math work?

I did the math, see above. Now, granted, I traded mine much sooner than you did, so that may have something to do with it. And I bought the EB in cash. I only had to finance the difference between EB and GT (came out to like $7000-ish if I remember correctly).

When buying, check all options. On the EB, I didn't go X-plan, because I negotiated a much lower price. On the GT, dealers didn't move as much, so X-Plan turned out to be better there. I used TrueCar to give me a baseline to start negotiating from, then emailed every dealership within about 200 miles with my specs and the car I desired. You pick some of the lower offers, and play them off each other until you get best deal. Takes some doing, but you won't get ripped.

 

[Maggneto]

Docs 1.5-2k? Don't know where you're shopping man. Hell, join the Mustang Club of America. X-Plan pricing means no dealer/doc fees (except gov't fees). In my state you only pay tax on the difference between trade and new purchase. I know it's different in some states, though.

Anyway, there's this pervasive myth that the second you drive a car off the lot, it suddenly loses all this value, just by virtue of you sitting your ass in it and taking it home. It's not true (unless the dealer bent you over pretty bad). Most of those studies are based on MSRP. Of COURSE the car isn't worth MSRP when you drive it off the lot -- it was never worth that to begin with, and if you paid sticker or close to, you got ripped off (GT350 buyers excepted, of course).

Now, over the course of a few years, yeah, you'll take a big depreciation hit. Especially if you're like me and you put boatloads of miles on your cars. But here's the thing, you're going to get depreciation *anyway* no matter what. If you drive any newish car, it's expensive.

When I went EB to GT, I had the EB for like two months. Trade in value was something like $1000 less than my purchase price (I'd have to go back and look to give you exact figures, but if anything, it was LESS than that, not more). And I got X-plan pricing on the and the waived doc fees that implies on the GT. I paid double on the state doc stamp fee (like $100). That was it.

Switching cost me about a grand.



I did the math, see above. Now, granted, I traded mine much sooner than you did, so that may have something to do with it. And I bought the EB in cash. I only had to finance the difference between EB and GT (came out to like $7000-ish if I remember correctly).

When buying, check all options. On the EB, I didn't go X-plan, because I negotiated a much lower price. On the GT, dealers didn't move as much, so X-Plan turned out to be better there. I used TrueCar to give me a baseline to start negotiating from, then emailed every dealership within about 200 miles with my specs and the car I desired. You pick some of the lower offers, and play them off each other until you get best deal. Takes some doing, but you won't get ripped.

You don't pay state tax on cars? You seem to want to leave out some expenses of car purchasing like tax and price paid with all expenses.

My neighbor and good friend worked at Ford finance for 20 years and still works part time for Ford. He gave me his x-plan and I had to decline it at the dealer because it would have cost nearly 1k more to use the x-plan vs. all the end of year incentives I was taking advantage of at the time. The MSRP of the car was exactly 36,990.00 and the end of year sale had it down to nearly 32k. Using the x-plan would have been over 33k so x-plan pricing isn't always the best price. If you use the x-plan the dealer is locked into a certain price so you can't take advantage of other incentives. Ford's end of the year sale was nearly 5k off MSRP and I am still 2.5 negative equity without the State Tax, Title, etc. expense for this car or the next.

I didn't see any real math in your response just a something like 1000.00, that's it.

 

[15wile]

My neighbor and good friend worked at Ford finance for 20 years and still works part time for Ford. He gave me his x-plan and I had to decline it at the dealer because it would have cost nearly 1k more to use the x-plan vs. all the end of year incentives I was taking advantage of at the time. The MSRP of the car was exactly 36,990.00 and the end of year sale had it down to nearly 32k. Using the x-plan would have been over 33k so x-plan pricing isn't always the best price. If you use the x-plan the dealer is locked into a certain price so you can't take advantage of other incentives. Ford's end of the year sale was nearly 5k off MSRP and I am still 2.5 negative equity without the Tax, Title, etc. expense for this car or the next.

I didn't see any real math in your response just a something like 1000.00, that's it.

X-plan isn't always the best. I said similar in my post. But it IS an option people should check into, because under certain conditions, it is better. It was better for the GT buy, but NOT for the EB buy. Depends on what incentives are current, but remember to take into account how it wipes out dealer fees.

If you want a full price breakdown, I have it on the forum someplace from like a year ago. Look up my name and find it yourself, if you are so inclined. I'm lazy and don't feel like doing it for you. I told you I got about $1k less than I paid for the EB in trade, then used X-plan price on GT and wiped out dealer/doc fees. Figure the rest out for yourself.

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