Another NA car breaks diff bolts...

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ponie1992

ponie1992

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Hope you like driveline noise lol. That brace is 100% unnecessary if you've done through bolts and aluminum inserts. Parts for parts sake.
My car will mostly see drag duty. Noise doesn't bother me. Maybe it's overkill, but I definitely don't wanna go through this again.
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ponie1992

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Fair enough, I just see the wallet emptying machine striking again!
That is definitely happening lol

Taking the axles and driveshaft to DSS on the 28th. Really hope only minor damage on em.
 

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Depending on your exhaust I think the driveline noise complaint is over rated. I went for the aluminum inserts as well from Steeda.
 
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ponie1992

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Depending on your exhaust I think the driveline noise complaint is over rated. I went for the aluminum inserts as well from Steeda.
My exhaust is pretty loud. Longtubes, full 3" Pypes x-bomb cat back. More noise ain't gonna hurt lol.
 

Dominant1

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Its a dedicated drag car they make noise..it’s normal..
 

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Ok, next time you're testing your line-lock, use a water box like at the track to reduce the stress on everything.

FWIW, I've been doing the BMR diff lockout bushing kit (like you had) on my car this week. Because of your story I've replaced the fasteners with 12.9 SHCS in the front & back positions. I had to use the 10.9 in the front position that points forward because that's the only way I could get a socket on that one.

I'll never make your power, but it was a good lesson regardless.
 
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ponie1992

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Ok, next time you're testing your line-lock, use a water box like at the track to reduce the stress on everything.

FWIW, I've been doing the BMR diff lockout bushing kit (like you had) on my car this week. Because of your story I've replaced the fasteners with 12.9 SHCS in the front & back positions. I had to use the 10.9 in the front position that points forward because that's the only way I could get a socket on that one.

I'll never make your power, but it was a good lesson regardless.
I sprayed water down but it was drying quickly. Plus MPSS's get pretty sticky. Never crossed my mind this would be the result of a driveway burnout, but is what it is lol. We live and learn. I'm glad you were able to upgrade based on my experience. The main reason for this thread is to help get the word out so others don't have issues like I did.
 

TeeLew

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The main reason for this thread is to help get the word out so others don't have issues like I did.
I wish you didn't have to take it in the shorts, but, I honestly appreciate your vid. It did affect what I put my car this week.
 
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ponie1992

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I wish you didn't have to take it in the shorts, but, I honestly appreciate your vid. It did affect what I put my car this week.
Stuff happens. Glad I'm able to help out!
 

KellTrac

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My head hurts.

Stick cars. Big power. Poor gearing. Odd clutch dumps.

Instead of installing an entire catalog....with aluminum pucks (Ewww) - just do it right.

1: Run whatever stock/poly option you want and THROUGH BOLT the diff mounts.

2: Run a solid aluminum bushing kit - which is THE ultimate method of ensuring strength. NVH can be wild though.
 

Ruiner46

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I watched your install video. It was interesting how you had to drill out the front bushings anyway. One thing I was thinking, maybe it would have been better to turn the front bolts back around so that they go in from the front. Otherwise you will have to pull axles to get them back out. Although hopefully they won't have to come out ever again...
 
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ponie1992

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I watched your install video. It was interesting how you had to drill out the front bushings anyway. One thing I was thinking, maybe it would have been better to turn the front bolts back around so that they go in from the front. Otherwise you will have to pull axles to get them back out. Although hopefully they won't have to come out ever again...
I'll definitely take a look at that before final assembly and install into the car. My thinking is if I ever have to take them out, it's probably to drop the diff. If that's the case, I'd have to pull the axles anyway. I didn't want them going in from the front, because the cradle would have to be dropped quite a bit to remove them. I'd honestly rather pull axles than drop the entire cradle. Alignment will need to be checked every time the cradle is fully unbolted. But, good thinking and will definitely take a look at it.
 

TeeLew

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It is easier to torque the nut if you thread the bolt in through the back.
 
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