Another Gen 5 whipple thread .

[olaosunt]

.
I already have the MFP crank support for the 10 rib/Gen 5 whipple/5.2/Gen head /long block swap ... so too late.

I did have to pull the RPG built /sleeved voodoo in the GT350 as it was eating coolant and oil .
Swapping in a “lesser “ build - Fonzie rebuilt /refreshed “virgin “ Gen 1 voodoo / non sleeved I picked up .
unfortunately crank had rust in the fly wheel threads so had to be replaced . Everything else was super clean .
I upgraded the rods / did Valve springs /head studs /billet OPG

Waiting for some parts -whipple gaskets -before the new motor goes back in so may be a good time for the crank saver bolt .... if I can get it in time .

Plan to ship RPG motor back for a refresh but he believes the issue is the diamond pistons used in the original build .

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[olaosunt]

Second “spare “ LPF built 10r80 finally arrived .
local track (O’riley race way ) opens in a couple of weeks . Last thing I want to do is swap the restricted magaflow true X for a tru 3 inch then I am ready to send it .
6 rib set up is “maxed “ out / 2.75 pulley .
weight reduction- Baer brakes all round -100 lbs /light weight battery - check
Spare motor -check (second one is almost ready )
Spare 10r80x 2 - check .
Hoping low 9’s but an 8 will be nice

 

[olaosunt]

some folks think I am crazy(like a fox ) for keeping spare engines /trans .

Well , the GT 350 motor swap is a good example of why .

Spare motor is in and old motor is ready to ship for a refresh .
Slight delay due to waiting for gaskets from whipple, but a week of downtime beats likely 2-3 month without the “spare “.

New motor is also getting some “updates“ like the oil cross over line that was not available at the time of the last R&R(downtime then was 3 months without a spare available ) and the coolant cross over .
Also waiting for crank saver bolt but no shipping notice . New motor also got fresh manifolds (another spare . Lol) as old ones were coated in oil .

 

[AZ_whippleS550]

some folks think I am crazy(like a fox ) for keeping spare engines /trans .

Well , the GT 350 motor swap is a good example of why .

Spare motor is in and old motor is ready to ship for a refresh .
Slight delay due to waiting for gaskets from whipple, but a week of downtime beats likely 2-3 month without the “spare “.

New motor is also getting some “updates“ like the oil cross over line that was not available at the time of the last R&R(downtime then was 3 months without a spare available ) and the coolant cross over .
Also waiting for crank saver bolt but no shipping notice .

I don't think you're crazy, but I wanna do Whatever you do for a living LOL

 

[olaosunt]

Not sure you would enjoy all the moonlighting .
Plus you would be surprised the deals that are out there if you keep an eye out .
e.g
New long block that was refreshed was from complete voodoo motor I got for $3K !!

 

[engineermike]

I snapped up a take-out gen 3 for the same reason. I think there’s some sort of rule that if you have a spare engine then yours will never fail. I can’t remember if it was Murphy or Dave Ramsey that said it but I’m sure it’s a thing.

 

[olaosunt]

Still not made a pass .
I was smelling fuel after filling up and turns out the fore hat was leaking fuel around one of the wires .
I replaced the hat with the GT 350 hat with 2 DW400 pumps which was the original fuel set up till I broke the feed line on the one J2Nuning sent me
I had then a used fore hat as replacement.
Fortunately I now had the one off the GT 350 (since swapped to a lethal hat ) so I transferee the pumps and the return fitting from the broken one .
Works like a charm and don’t have to worry so much about keeping at least 1/2 tank .
I might send the broken fore one to be fixed and upgraded to triple pumps in anticipation of the 10 rib swap .

Car also had a vibration and turns out my cradle bushings were worn /torn so did the steeda inserts . I have the BMR ones but the cradle would have to be dropped to install and was quoted 7-8 hours . Will see how the steeda ones do but I have never had any wheel hop since doing the lock outs .
I also replaced the throttle body gasket with RTV as I got the code a few times .

I test fitted the 15x9 welds with ET R ‘s(bias ply - ran before on my m6 KB car with same brakes ) and lower control arm needed some grinding as I expected .
I might also need a 3mm spacer . Honestly if I was to do it again I would just have got the AED knuckles and run the stock calipers . That way you can run a wider wheel/tire . I say that because of my recent experience trying to run a 9 inch tire (bracket racer ) on 15x8 wheels on the Hellion car . Let’s just say I wont be doing it again .
I am hoping to be able to make a pass next week and will running the tried and tested 17 inch ET R’s (radial ) on a 17x 10.5 wheel . 17 inch skinnies . I also have the new 17 Hoosier radials as back up .

Unless I can do the knuckles and run a 10 inch wheel , the 15 inch tires /wheels will probably be just for “show“

shooting for low 9’s . ... may be an 8??

Spare 5.2 motor, 10 rib/20 OD and a couple of “level 2” 10r80’s remain on stand by !

 

[vtknight]

Still not made a pass .
I was smelling fuel after filling up and turns out the fore hat was leaking fuel around one of the wires .
I replaced the hat with the GT 350 hat with 2 DW400 pumps which was the original fuel set up till I broke the feed line on the one J2Nuning sent me
I had then a used fore hat as replacement.
Fortunately I now had the one off the GT 350 (since swapped to a lethal hat ) so I transferee the pumps and the return fitting from the broken one .
Works like a charm and don’t have to worry so much about keeping at least 1/2 tank .
I might send the broken fore one to be fixed and upgraded to triple pumps in anticipation of the 10 rib swap .

Car also had a vibration and turns out my cradle bushings were worn /torn so did the steeda inserts . I have the BMR ones but the cradle would have to be dropped to install and was quoted 7-8 hours . Will see how the steeda ones do but I have never had any wheel hop since doing the lock outs .
I also replaced the throttle body gasket with RTV as I got the code a few times .

I test fitted the 15x9 welds with ET R ‘s(bias ply - ran before on my m6 KB car with same brakes ) and lower control arm needed some grinding as I expected .
I might also need a 3mm spacer . Honestly if I was to do it again I would just have got the AED knuckles and run the stock calipers . That way you can run a wider wheel/tire . I say that because of my recent experience trying to run a 9 inch tire (bracket racer ) on 15x8 wheels on the Hellion car . Let’s just say I wont be doing it again .
I am hoping to be able to make a pass next week and will running the tried and tested 17 inch ET R’s (radial ) on a 17x 10.5 wheel . 17 inch skinnies . I also have the new 17 Hoosier radials as back up .

Unless I can do the knuckles and run a 10 inch wheel , the 15 inch tires /wheels will probably be just for “show“

shooting for low 9’s . ... may be an 8??

Spare 5.2 motor, 10 rib/20 OD and a couple of “level 2” 10r80’s remain on stand by !

Congrats! Subscribed for your results - I am sure you break into the 8's with your setup!

 

[olaosunt]

Well ... the GT 350 hat did not work out very well .
I think problem is the feed but fuel pressure dropped at 5500 rpm .
I was still waiting the Fore hat I sent off for the tripe pump upgrade so I decided to try the DW x2 hat.

That worked out better ..... but don’t know if I had already hurt the motor while messing with the GT 350 hat but started smoking Just puttering around one day . Even though the pressure dropped and STFT climbed It only leaned out a bit per the lambda.with the GT 350 hat .


i think the car got mad because it heard I was considering trading her in for GT 500.. same color so my wife would not even notice it was a different car ....well she showed me !!

Cylinder 7 is toast . That was the same cylinder that was a little low a year ago .

Getting ready to drop new 5:2 motor /10 rib /crank support / long tubes .

Pressure was good with the DW 2 hat so I may keep it a while before I turn up the boost on the new motor .
I will be switching back to the now upgraded Fore hat with triple pumps and ID1300’s when I am ready to turn it up

 

[olaosunt]

Just FYI ...any body planning to use the accufab rear seal cover ... it wont work with the 18 crank sensor even though the say it will fit . Hole is too small(tunnel too short )
MMR sells one specific for the 18 .
i had a “spare “ MMR one but unfortunately it was the 11-17 so does not fit either so reusing the stock .

 

[olaosunt]

Compression Test
March 2020 vs May 2021

 

[olaosunt]

Also a head up on the kooks headers .
The 1 7/8 headers (part number in pic )11512400......on the drivers side it was too tight and rubbing on/touching the valve cover gasket .

Fortunately, one of my “spares” came to the rescue .
I had a set of “stepped “ 1 3/4 x 1 7/8 (part number in pic )11512300 -I picked a while back to swap with the stainless works on my KB car (those are actually fine just look rusty and always prefer the sound of the kooks ).

Anyway those have plenty of clearance .

 

[olaosunt]

Out with the old in with new
Fonzie 5.2 engine /10 rib is finally in and running

Kooks stepped headers /green cats

Swapped resonator to a true 3 inch —- still necks down .

Runs smooth as butter /nice and quiet .

Breaking motor in on 104(rather than E85)

 

[engineermike]

What make/model is that resonator?

 

[olaosunt]

What make/model is that resonator?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIs5fE0qaD8gIVecmUCR2MSAp1EAQYAiABEgKCt_D_BwE

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