Another Gen 5 whipple thread .

[olaosunt]

Making matters worse , I now recall letting him have the drivers side of the other pair as a “spare”
as well when he was going to BG to race(might have ended up needing it too )
Found these I think are the passengers side in my “parts bin “ at home .
Yup . Just confirmed the part numbers .
FR33-4K138-BC
They are both the passengers side .

Shoot !

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[DavidHuff]

LMR has a great video on how to change a half shaft on a mustang gt.
Very easy to do and you could do it with the proper tools.

 

[olaosunt]

Any thoughts on the “newest “ 2000 HP DSS halfshafts ?
https://www.teambeefcakeracing.com/dss-ra8555x6ra8556x6.html
They are a little more than the older version
https://www.teambeefcakeracing.com/dss-ra8505x-pro-ra8506x-pro.html


There is typically a wait for them if they are not in stock (just asked Beefcake) and cant stand to have the car down that long.


I see summit has the Ford racing ones in stock and can ship tomorrow. I will see if Beefcake has them as well
They are little more expensive than the DSS ones but too be honest never really had much luck with DSS stuff.

The "Renegades " at a $2K are definitely overkill for me.

 

[olaosunt]

I might need to add half shafts to the list of “spare” stuff I like to keep . LOL

I already have spare engines, transmissions, drive shafts , rear ends ,so going to see if they will warranty this one so I can keep a spare (that’s how I got my spare drive shaft )
Spending $$ always feels better when you plan it and are in control .
It’s the spending on unexpected stuff(especially with no spare ) as well as subsequent downtime that is most painful .

 

[olaosunt]

Or I could save my self a grand and just replace the drivers side that broke with another DSS 800 hp (only $500)
The one that broke had also been repaired so it was probably defective .

They have held up so far-through 2 previous season of abuse and I think it was the drag radial with little side wall /wheel hop that broke it .
Almost all those passes were made on the ET R’s which have more side wall and I almost never got wheel hop(also have BMR lock outs ).

I do think the car is probably making a bit more than 800 hp.
900@7200 so probably more if I was able to spin out higher in 7th gear on the dyno.
Going from the smallest 3.25 pulley I ran last year to the 2.85 felt like it had picked up a ton of power and torque down low .

On the other hand when I do swap the new motor I had built (Non sleeved Gen3. 5.2 block ) I will also going to a 3.375 10 rib/20 % OD so torque numbers will also go up.
Might be best to just upgrade now

 

[olaosunt]

Well ... thank God , I did not jump the gun and order halfshafts .
I had a trusted shop that also has towing services go get it and turns out something broke in the rear end and half shafts are intact .

I had swapped the original 3.55/torsion that came with the PP for a 3.31 rear end I had used before with a manual car .
I considered putting back the 3.55’s but always wanted 3.15’s so I picked one up for cheap on EBay .
Depending on cost I may fix the broken one and keep —
Anyway, on to better news the long block ,I had built has been ready to pick up for a few weeks .
Stock motor still seems to running strong so not sure when I will did the swap .
When I do , already have the parts for 10 rib/ATI (20%OD)/crank support and will be starting with a 3.375 10 rib pulley which should be good for at least 2 more psi .
I also picked up a”spare “ A10 and new steels/clutches but would like to send it out For the “extra” steels like LPF does in their stage 2 builds .

 

[Slopoke]

Anyway, on to better news the long block ,I had built has been ready to pick up for a few weeks .

What parts did you have put into the new motor and if you don't mind, what was the total price for the motor?

 

[olaosunt]

For the short block I was just under $4000 in parts.

GR3Z- 6010-F block - $2100
Got a deal on Mahle Voodoo pistons (has similar dimple and should work with DI) and Manley H rods specific for those pistons - $1100(retail would be about $1700)
https://sportcompactwarehouse.com/mahle-930258401



https://www.lethalperformance.com/manley-14043r-8-h-beam-connecting-rods-4340-forged-arp-2000-cap-screws-5-2l-dohc-coyote-voodoo.html

Boss crank- $ 400
Coated rod and main bearings -$300

 

[olaosunt]

Pretty much an Alluminator 5.2 XS short block
Shorter stroke boss crank instead of more expensive 5.2 crank results in slightly less than 12.1 compression (11.9) and less quench .

 

[olaosunt]

I have tons of pics in another thread

 

[huntiez]

nice man yeah im running full boost already on the motor I got from you gonna dyno it soon olaosunt so will post number once it happens glad u got everything going good bud

 

[olaosunt]

Well , got to test the 3.15 rear end at local track on Wednesday.. no more 100+ mile treks for me
after the last outing

Rob also sent me a new tune with other updates .

I was not going to risk my rear end again so had my 17 inch ET R wheels with side wall and 18 inch skinnies .
I was nervous the first pass and left soft .
Ran 9.7@147 mph but more importantly picked up 31 mph on the back end . Last year I was picking up only 26-27 mph .
Logs looked good so pulled the “plug “ next time but it blew the tires off . I still ran it down the track but noticed it was struggling on the back end (10.5@139) . Logs showed FP tanked .
I thought maybe I lost a pump so I pulled the fuse to each one and both were still on line .

So I decided to make a final pass (they had already warned me after the 9.7 pass ). I left harder but fell on its face again on the back end .
FP dropped again . Still 9.6 but would have been a 9.3 if all things were the same as first pass .

Had similar issues last September and turned out to be clogged filter . I will start there and if that’s not the issue I may swap the pumps .
Not a bad night as I drove it home . It did get lean when the fuel pressure dropped but does not look like I hurt the motor (another benefit of E85 ).

 

[olaosunt]

What parts did you have put into the new motor and if you don't mind, what was the total price for the motor?

just a heads up for anyone looking to build a short block .
Looks like Ford is having a fire sale on the GR3Z-6010-F block sold by Ford racing as M-6010-M52A block.
Can be had for now $1850 which is $250 less than I paid .
This is is THE block used in the 2019 and up GT 350’s and NOT the predator (only difference is final machining for addition clearance for the predator and different oil squirters).

 

[olaosunt]

I finally picked up my spare long block with the above .
Also picked up the spare voodoo and another SB-
Predator block /5.2 crank .
Finally have all these spare engines but does not look like I will be breaking any thing this year as shipping out in 4 weeks and no more test and tune days in August .

 

[olaosunt]

Also swapped in a brand new fuel filter .
Don’t have pics of the old one yet but must have been pretty bad as all’s well again with fuel .
Fuel on Logs looks better and car pulled harder than it has in a while so I assume may be the clog had been building up for a while .

I may have to make another “trek “ on a Wednesday to get one more pass before I leave otherwise this year is a bust .

I am considering having the shop swap the new block /10 rib/ Baer brakes while I am gone but another part of me wants to see how far I can push the stock motor .

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