Another Gen 5 whipple thread .

[olaosunt]

Are you saying you tried it both plugged and un-plugged on the same day?
Are you taking notes on DA, IATs etc etc?

Edit( looked back at slips ) - sorry for confusion

plugged and unplugged comparisons above were NOT on the same day (called it quits early that day due to sagging splitter after runs unplugged) and making note of DA.
Not seen any timing pulled for IAT to date.

I have run plugged and plugged on the same day when car wes NA and it was slower unplugged .

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[olaosunt]

DA was only about 300ft the first day and about 800/900 the second outing unplugged .

I will be sure to do same day /back to back comparisons-plugged and unplugged when I fix my trans .


Any result from anyone (FI) else (comparing the 2 ) ?

 

[olaosunt]

Finally got the 9.99 pass a few weeks ago .
I was running a bracket race with 10.00 dial in after running multiple 10.02’s during test and tune

Fuel was 104 octane (DW400/BAP)and it took the 3.25 pulley in almost 4000 FT DA. Just in time too as the DW400 may be getting ready to take a crap (P008 code - low fuel pressure system low pressure)
Return dual pump fuel system is being installed ans hoping for more with E85-‘s better air .

 

[Juiced35th]

Did you install new clutches in the tranny?

 

[olaosunt]

Did you install new clutches in the tranny?

Yes but It turned out that was not the culprit (although one of the clutches had burn marks ) for it running badly
It was due to fouling the O2 sensors running lead race gas .

 

[olaosunt]

Finally installed my return fuel system but took a while .lol

Initially installed the GT350 hat with dual DW400 pumps but while trying to fix a leaking fitting I broke the plastic feed line on the pump hat (yes my luck continues to suck )

That the end of that hat as can’t be fixed. I will be able to use the hat out of My GT 350 when I do the rerun system with the division X hat /triple pumps (when the rebuild long block gets back) .

Fortunately I keep “spares” and had a fore hat with dual walbro pumps I had JN2UNING already set up to be a plug and play replacement

After the first outing in the 1/8 one of the pumps died (but the hat with the pumps used so who know )
It’s nice you can still log FLP and FRP and I could see them tanking in the log the first attempt at a 1/4 pass .

I swapped the one pump and FLP is good again @75-80 psi at full load .
The FRP is not a flat table top (2800-3000 psi ) like when I ran race gas . It’s more wave like and rpm dependent but Lambda is good .
I spoke with Julio@JN2uning as I think it’s a function of not having a separate regulator for the DI but he said it’s fine with just one .
I went 9.84@140 in 2200 DA yesterday
It’s leaving harder and the 60 is down to the high 1.4’s but still spins the 1-2 shift .
6.3 in the 1/8 mile should be 9.5-9.6 in the 1/4 but it’s still seems my mph is way down .
I wonder if long tubes will help since I still have stock manifolds?
I currently run the 305/45 17 ET R’’s(27.8 tall )with my 3.31 rear but going to try a taller tire , M&H 325/35 17(28.5) to see if it helps . It’s crossing the traps now at 7300 in 6th but wonder if spending more time in the lower gears will help .


I do already have a converter and I am debating whether to do that before the Baer rear brakes so I can run 15 ET pros.
I know they are probably not needed as 17’s have gone low 1.3’s but damn they look good and may help the 1-2 spin .
I also have slicks I could use but don’t miss the sway I get when I run them on my manual KB car

 

[sigintel]

Congrats!

meow...
meoww...
cats?

 

[olaosunt]

Lol
I am a dog person so already deleted the damn cats .

 

[TX-Ripper]

No cats with corn

 

[HRSEPLA]

I went 9.84@140 in 2200 DA yesterday
It’s leaving harder and the 60 is down to the high 1.4’s but still spins the 1-2 shift .
6.3 in the 1/8 mile should be 9.5-9.6 in the 1/4 but it’s still seems my mph is way down .
I wonder if long tubes will help since I still have stock manifolds?
I currently run the 305/45 17 ET R’’s(27.8 tall )with my 3.31 rear but going to try a taller tire , M&H 325/35 17(28.5) to see if it helps . It’s crossing the traps now at 7300 in 6th but wonder if spending more time in the lower gears will help .


I do already have a converter and I am debating whether to do that before the Baer rear brakes so I can run 15 ET pros.
I know they are probably not needed as 17’s have gone low 1.3’s but damn they look good and may help the 1-2 spin .
I also have slicks I could use but don’t miss the sway I get when I run them on my manual KB car

That is good to see progress and your 60's coming down!
I would think that long tubes would be a benefit at this HP level for sure.
You are where I was, chasing consistent 60's leaving in 1st gear. One pass would be awesome and the next 3 would wheel hop or hit 2nd gear SO hard that it pushed it into 3rd due to spinning like these cars do.
Once I went to the new Circle D converter and leaving in 2nd gear, all of that went away. My 60's are consistently 1.35 every time now. (I may have more BMR pieces than you too in the rear though)
Before my last track outing, I bought the Baer Brakes and was about to put them on to move to 15's but was told emphatically by Jon Lund, Kelly (formerly of BMR) and a few others that I didn't need to for 1.2-1.3 60's, so I held off.
I am very glad I stayed on the 17's, it's stable, predicable and with the 305/45R17 MT R Drag Radials - HOOK.
Just my experience, but we seem like we are on similar paths ;) (except you have had way worse luck brother, I know mine will run out here soon! lol)

 

[olaosunt]

That is good to see progress and your 60's coming down!
I would think that long tubes would be a benefit at this HP level for sure.
You are where I was, chasing consistent 60's leaving in 1st gear. One pass would be awesome and the next 3 would wheel hop or hit 2nd gear SO hard that it pushed it into 3rd due to spinning like these cars do.
Once I went to the new Circle D converter and leaving in 2nd gear, all of that went away. My 60's are consistently 1.35 every time now. (I may have more BMR pieces than you too in the rear though)
Before my last track outing, I bought the Baer Brakes and was about to put them on to move to 15's but was told emphatically by Jon Lund, Kelly (formerly of BMR) and a few others that I didn't need to for 1.2-1.3 60's, so I held off.
I am very glad I stayed on the 17's, it's stable, predicable and with the 305/45R17 MT R Drag Radials - HOOK.
Just my experience, but we seem like we are on similar paths ;) (except you have had way worse luck brother, I know mine will run out here soon! lol)

Thanks Sam .You are a fountain of knowledge!
I am scheduled to have the converter installed .
How is the drivability with the converter ?

I actually already have a set of Kooks long tubes I had planned to install on one my spare long blocks . I love the way the car sounds now with the cat delete and magnaflow tru X resonator and afraid to ruin it with long tubes .

I might wait to see how it does with the converter but also considering switching tuners .

What are you going to do with your brakes ?
I also already have the rear bears I know the 15’s are not needed but the ET pros may be worth something especially as I am spinning the 1-2 consistently. Not seeing much wheel hop right now with the ET R’s

 

[HRSEPLA]

Thanks Sam .You are a fountain of knowledge!
I am scheduled to have the converter installed .
How is the drivability with the converter ?

I actually already have a set of Kooks long tubes I had planned to install on one my spare long blocks . I love the way the car sounds now with the cat delete and magnaflow tru X resonator and afraid to ruin it with long tubes .

I might wait to see how it does with the converter but also considering switching tuners .

What are you going to do with your brakes ?
I also already have the rear bears I know the 15’s are not needed but the ET pros may be worth something especially as I am spinning the 1-2 consistently. Not seeing much wheel hop right now with the ET R’s

Thank you!
I had Jon Lund remove 1st gear all together on this particular tune revision. Street and track use no 1st gear and I really like it! 1st gear is SO aggressive and it seems out of place and unnecessary for me.

For the exhaust note piece - I think ALL of these cars sound like butt. I don't know if its the headers, midpipes, firing order, positioning of the mufflers at the rear of the car or what.. I have never heard a Coyote I've liked... (I went with Flowmasters because of my Foxbody cars... this was a mistake. lol)

I am about to order a new catback now so I have a full 3" throughout. I am thinking about the Magnaflow...

I am going to keep my Baer brakes on the shelf for now as I may NEED to use them to run some of the popular classes that are not allowing my wider 17" tires. NOTE: I did a mock up with the Baer's and yes, they allow my Weld 15's to mount but would NOT allow my Weld Low Pad 17's Beadlocks to go back on due to clearance issues. Ugh. Derrick @ 1320Wheels.com (who is AWESOME by the way) made me some nice 1/4" spacers so I could run the 17's with the Baer's when the time comes to swap to those.

Pic below is the 17's Weld low pad wheels with the Baer's/no spacer.

 

[Whitedevil95]

I would take a look at the Thermal R&D catback. Its very deep and throaty less brapp and rasp. Also is a full 3" Stainless system. I really like mine.

 

[olaosunt]

The borla active exhaust also seems nice but is $$$.
Honestly the stock active exhaust /cat delete /magnaflow Tru X is probably one of the best sounding combination I have heard .
I love mine and drive around in quiet mode most of the time . Normal mode is not too bad but I could not drive around with it in sport or track mode .

I did do some testing an the track and found out car picks up about 1 mph with it in sport vs quiet with the valves closed .

I swore I would not do long tubes again after the catless long tube SW headers on my KB car . I ended up welding 3 pairs of resonators before I could stand it . Still sounds too “tinny “ but the rasp is better .
Might be less of an issue with the Kooks especially with the magnaflow tru X.

 

[HRSEPLA]

I swore I would not do long tubes again after the catless long tube SW headers on my KB car . I ended up welding 3 pairs of resonators before I could stand it . Still sounds too “tinny “ but the rasp is better .
Might be less of an issue with the Kooks especially with the magnaflow tru X.

Honestly you may not want to do them then, it will probably be too obnoxious.

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