Alternator Replacement

[luc]

I’ll pull the codes when I get home from work
Yes, the warning flashes after a few seconds
The electrical connector was difficult when I tried to remove it while the alternator was still attached. I didn’t pull hard on it though. Once I removed the alternator and could turn it to get to the fastener more easily, it wasn’t difficult at all. I’ll check the connector when I get home, too.

The code will tell us what it is but i bet on the wiring
Here is what you need if it’s the issue

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[ChipG]

Yep, I had that same problem. That connector goes to the voltage regulator and with those wires broken at the connector (not visually apparent), voltage is all over the place and you get the "Service Charging System Now" error. The OEM wiring harness to that connector has very little slack in it and my theory is that the wires get fatigued under vibration/engine movement and break internally where they bend in to enter the connector.

 

[Egparson202]

Same here. It’s sort of a pattern failure and not limited to this part of the harness. The connectors for the VCT solenoids are short and fail because of it.

 

[sublime1996525]

Here are the codes I pulled. The connectors make sense. I’ll order that and replace it. I really appreciate everyone’s help! Thank you.

 

[sublime1996525]

Finally had time to finish it. Had to remove the alternator to get the new pigtail attached. Thank god it works!

 

[JRoman]

Yep - I just did mine. Pretty much as stated above - there are a couple additional steps, like pulling the serpentine belt tensioner (that's a single bolt) and the alternator (generator) body acts as a clamp, so you'll need to pry it gently towards the driver's side to get it to release. Once everything is disconnected and unbolted, it's then a matter of fishing it up and out (all the work is done from above with the intake tube and airbox removed).

Note that if you have a larger aftermarket sway bar, the bar and the bracket will make it a bit more difficult to fish the alternator up and out of the engine bay. I have the Ford Performance sway bar and it was so close I thought it wouldn't come out at first. It's just a matter of getting it clocked the proper orientation and then pushing the lower radiator hose enough to get the clearance needed. The whole thing can be done in an hour or so and I'd rank it very low on the PITA scale.

Here's a pic of the engine bay with the intake tube and airbox out of the way - still a tight fit.

I just had to replace my alternator but I am struggling finding a way to finagle it up and out. I have not tried to remove the radiator hose as I would rather not if needed. Any tips/suggestions? I tried for a good 30 min in different ways/pattern to no avail.

Thanks!

 

[Muligan]

I just had to replace my alternator but I am struggling finding a way to finagle it up and out. I have not tried to remove the radiator hose as I would rather not if needed. Any tips/suggestions? I tried for a good 30 min in different ways/pattern to no avail.

Thanks!

Unfortunately, I don't have a picture of the exact orientation that allowed it to come out, but it is possible. Depending on what sway bar your car has, it can be very close. Mine has the larger FP bar and it really looked like the alternator wasn't going to come out, but it eventually did with just a little compression of the radiator hose (removal of hose not needed). Be patient and try every possible angle - you'll get it out eventually. Then remember the orientation, because that's the only way the new one will go back in!

 

[JRoman]

Unfortunately, I don't have a picture of the exact orientation that allowed it to come out, but it is possible. Depending on what sway bar your car has, it can be very close. Mine has the larger FP bar and it really looked like the alternator wasn't going to come out, but it eventually did with just a little compression of the radiator hose (removal of hose not needed). Be patient and try every possible angle - you'll get it out eventually. Then remember the orientation, because that's the only way the new one will go back in!

Thank you! I have a R model with its corresponding swaybar. I have compressed the hose a few times, etc to try and get it out. Guess a bit more patience is needed.

 

[sublime1996525]

Thank you! I have a R model with its corresponding swaybar. I have compressed the hose a few times, etc to try and get it out. Guess a bit more patience is needed.

I had to compress the hose while also just pulling past it with a decent amount of effort. Like what was said earlier, keep trying different angles.

 

[ChipG]

It isn't fun, but I've pulled mine in and out several times (I have a BMR swaybar). You do have to squeeze it past the radiator hose and you have to have the right orientation, but it's doable.

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