Alignment after Coilovers

[15flounder]

So I just installed the Pedders eXtreme XA Coilover Kit w/camber plates on my Mustang. This is only the 2nd set I’ve ever done and was more difficult than the first. In the rear, I knew from videos that I’d have to lower the rear subframe. I couldn’t get the springs out by loosening only one side so I had to drop the whole thing. I tried to line up the bolts with their original marks but I fear it wasn’t perfect. I know you need an alignment after something like this but when? X number of miles? X amount of time? I’ve been breaking them in and trying to get them to settle and I think the ride height is about where I’m going to keep it. I called an alignment shop with a perfect reputation and the manager told me their machine has specs for ‘19 Ecoboost, GT, PP2, and Performance Track pack but specifically excludes PP1 which my car is, of course. As a result they refused to do the alignment because they couldn’t guarantee my satisfaction. I asked if I should take it back to the dealer and he didn’t recommend that because of the modifications (my car has less than 500mi). Anyone else run into this? What should I do? Ask a less reputable shop and maybe get a poor job? Go back to the dealer and risk voiding warranty? Any alignment techs out there with advice?

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[Bluemustang]

So I just installed the Pedders eXtreme XA Coilover Kit w/camber plates on my Mustang. This is only the 2nd set I’ve ever done and was more difficult than the first. In the rear, I knew from videos that I’d have to lower the rear subframe. I couldn’t get the springs out by loosening only one side so I had to drop the whole thing. I tried to line up the bolts with their original marks but I fear it wasn’t perfect. I know you need an alignment after something like this but when? X number of miles? X amount of time? I’ve been breaking them in and trying to get them to settle and I think the ride height is about where I’m going to keep it. I called an alignment shop with a perfect reputation and the manager told me their machine has specs for ‘19 Ecoboost, GT, PP2, and Performance Track pack but specifically excludes PP1 which my car is, of course. As a result they refused to do the alignment because they couldn’t guarantee my satisfaction. I asked if I should take it back to the dealer and he didn’t recommend that because of the modifications (my car has less than 500mi). Anyone else run into this? What should I do? Ask a less reputable shop and maybe get a poor job? Go back to the dealer and risk voiding warranty? Any alignment techs out there with advice?

Ask another shop. Your car is modified from the factory. Factory spec alignment isn't really applicable to you any more. Any good alignment tech should be able to adjust to your specs, within reason of course. I take mine to a general automotive shop and they do it. You should have all the parts necessary to get a good performance alignment.

 

[shogun32]

So I just installed the Pedders eXtreme XA Coilover Kit w/camber plates on my Mustang.

Performance by Jax (Sterling VA). He doesn't personally do alignments but works with the shop across the way. My GT with Steeda adjustable pro-actions is set to -2.1 front, 0 toe. -1.8 rear, 0.1/0.15.

I suspect they did NOT do the 'clocking the bushings' so I'm going to take it to Craftsman Auto care and walk them thru it.

If you live near Manassas there is also a Mustang specialist, and a forum member here (handle escapes me) works in a shop in Gainsville and they can help set you up.

 

[15flounder]

I’m not sure what you mean by “clocking the bushings” but that is what I’m worried about. If the subframe moved, the thrust angle could be off. I think a “four wheel alignment” is supposed to address that but only if the guy doing it is energetic enough to actually make a change. Especially since my exhaust makes the rear two bolts a real chore. I’m in the Shenandoah valley but I’d travel for the peace of mind of a job done right. Let me know if you remember his handle.

 

[shogun32]

If the subframe moved, the thrust angle could be off.

If you unbolted the subframe at any point (say removing factory springs) then it most definitely moved. And that's assuming the factory IRS positioning wasn't complete crap to begin with. If you don't have the BMR/Steeda alignment dowels, get them, drop the IRS and fix that positioning. Then a full alignment is in order. PM you the Gainsville contact.

 

[Bluemustang]

Yeah if you unbolted the subframe, you for sure need a 4 wheel alignment. Also anytime you change the ride height almost certainly you need an alignment.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I’m not sure what you mean by “clocking the bushings” but that is what I’m worried about. If the subframe moved, the thrust angle could be off. I think a “four wheel alignment” is supposed to address that but only if the guy doing it is energetic enough to actually make a change. Especially since my exhaust makes the rear two bolts a real chore. I’m in the Shenandoah valley but I’d travel for the peace of mind of a job done right. Let me know if you remember his handle.

Our cars have a number of binding rubber bushings (binding meaning they reduce / restrict movement of a moving part like a pivoting control arm). These need to be loosened and re-tightened when you change ride height and they must be tightened with the suspension on the ground and at the intended ride height, or they will artificially raise or lower the ride height and might cause weird handling and other bad behavior. The car won't "settle" without loosening and tightening the car at the intended ride height. An alignment shop rack is one of the best places to do that procedure, because it can raise the car supported on it's wheels and allow you to get under there and access those pivot points. That's what "clocking the bushings" means. Clocking i.e. rotating them, so you rotate them to align with your ride height by loosening and retighening them at your ride height.

There's like one or two spots per side in the front suspension and a few additional ones in the rear suspension.

Once you've done that, it will be ready to take and hold a proper alignment. Since, its easiest to do that ON an alignment rack, best to find a good shop to work.

 

[15flounder]

Ah. That makes some sense. Gotta let em rotate so they’re happy in their new positions. Sounds like I do want someone experienced with lowered Mustangs. I might be able to do it with my service ramps but I’d rather leave it to somebody who knows what to loosen and then how tight to tighten it. Plus it needs an alignment anyway. Maybe I’ll PM the Gainesville guy tomorrow.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Ah. That makes some sense. Gotta let em rotate so they’re happy in their new positions. Sounds like I do want someone experienced with lowered Mustangs. I might be able to do it with my service ramps but I’d rather leave it to somebody who knows what to loosen and then how tight to tighten it. Plus it needs an alignment anyway. Maybe I’ll PM the Gainesville guy tomorrow.

There's a diagram if you do a search for "clock the bushings"

 

[15flounder]

Indeed there is. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/posts/2630759/ should be sticky in Susp & Brakes. I’ve printed the diagram and a photo and I may take them to a random local shop and see what they say. I just want everything to be right before I start exploring the limits of this car.

 

[Biggsy]

@15flounder where in VA are you ?

And I think the memeber you are referring to is @Grimace427. Dont know if he is still on here

 

[15flounder]

@15flounder where in VA are you ?

And I think the memeber you are referring to is @Grimace427. Dont know if he is still on here

I’m in the Shenandoah Valley and yes, I was trying to contact grimace427. That explains no reply. I got impatient and ran over to Firestone. They said “Sure, we’ll do it right now!” So I let em. By the amount of time I spent in the waiting room. I seriously doubt my bushings were clocked properly if at all. They did however align it pretty well and it tracks better and rides better. The only thing out of spec is rear camber and they put at the bottom of the page that there’s no adjustment. I’ve read conflicting info on whether or not there is factory camber adjustment. I’ll eventually get adjustable links and go back.

 

[shogun32]

seriously doubt my bushings were clocked properly if at all.

They have no earthly clue what the term means. Unless you show them BMR's diagram and explain the particulars.

The only thing out of spec is rear camber and they put at the bottom of the page that there’s no adjustment.

because they are ignorant of where the bolts are on the S550.

 

[Bluemustang]

That rear camber is way off and too much toe-in for the rear too, if you ask me. Yeah they don't know where the rear camber adjustment is on the S550.

For finer adjustments and a larger range, I recommend the BMR adjustable camber arms. They worked great for dialing it in. You can still use the factory adjustment and it works perfectly fine for 95%+ of people. But the adjustable arms will be so much easier to adjust and you're more likely to get what you want. Ancillary benefit - the OEM bushing in the camber arm is some crap. All sorts of deflection and odd behavior. BMR's poly bushings are much better and will reduce alignment changes during cornering.

 

[Biggsy]

because they are ignorant of where the bolts are on the S550.

I second this. I have factory camber links in the rear and I’m at -1.4.

sorry you wasted your money but you gotta go to a performance/mustang shop that knows how to align.

also, did you give them a piece of paper of what specs you wanted? I do this every time I take my car in.

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