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Advice for upgrading 9 speaker system

ConSpooky

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Hey everyone. I have a 2022 GT premium that should be arriving within the next month or so. I was supposed to be getting the B&O, but Ford somehow messed up and left me with the 9 speaker.

I originally went with B&O for a couple of reasons: keeping everything looking stock + the subwoofer.

Obviously I have not received the car yet, but Iā€™m not an audiophile, so Iā€™ll probably be fine with the stock speakers. Maybe Iā€™ll get 2 new door speakers. At the very least I would like a sub + AMP with some room if Iā€™d like to upgrade more.

As I mentioned before, Iā€™m interested in a factory look. Is there anyway to get that truck liner piece that houses the B&O sub and put an aftermarket one in? Iā€™m not interested in having a sub sitting in the trunk taking up space, especially since I will be frequently pulling down the seats and putting things through. Iā€™m not as concerned with the amp since itā€™s much smaller and could also go by the spare tire.

Any product recommendations, similar builds, answers to my questions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
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Scat2018

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Iā€™m look at upgrade my 9 speaker system too.
 

Scat2018

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https://oemaudioplus.com/mustang/

Looking into this sub & replacing rear speaker to start.donā€™t want to put big $$ into system & keep my factory head unit.my car a 600a so the B&O wasnā€™t a option
 

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There are a few routes to take. What I did was:
- disconnect tweeters on windsheild pillars.
- replaced only the 3.5" speaker in each door (with bass blockers) with Hertz 87.3 speakers.
- Added a 10" sub with line out tapped into the rear speakers
- Disconnected centre channel (will add another Hertz 87.3 speaker there)

Simple, cost effective and sounds great! In fact, sounds quite amazing. The next step is a full gut and rewire and you're looking at many thousands.
 

PoCoBob

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I just completed my second attempt at this. First and foremost do not change the factory speakers in the lower doors, they are a pretty decent woofer. I know this because I made the mistake of going with the Crutchfield recommendation and it sounded terrible, putting the factory speakers back in made a huge improvement over the aftermarket speakers.

So now I have Kenwood KFC-X3C speakers in the center dash and the upper doors (3.5" speakers). In the rear deck I have Rockford Fosgate P1650 speakers (6.5"). I never touched the tweeters in the pillars. For me it's a good enough improvement over stock that I am done. Depending on the source of the music it does give decent bass from the stock head unit. Audio is a rabbit hole that can never end so it's up to you to decide how far along you're willing to go.
 

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This topic has been covered ad nauseam. Check the pinned posts in the audio sections and a few others just below with the exact same topic line.
 
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ConSpooky

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This topic has been covered ad nauseam. Check the pinned posts in the audio sections and a few others just below with the exact same topic line.
Please point me in the right direction if Iā€™m wrong, but Iā€™ve been unable to find any posts regarding putting a sub in 9 speaker system in B&O trunk spot. I have seen posts about upgrading the B&O sub, but Iā€™m not sure if you can get that trim piece alone without the sub. I have seen an aftermarket sub that fits there (JBL maybe?), but itā€™s $1000 and you need to attach the B&O amp.
 

Evolvd

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Please point me in the right direction if Iā€™m wrong, but Iā€™ve been unable to find any posts regarding putting a sub in 9 speaker system in B&O trunk spot. I have seen posts about upgrading the B&O sub, but Iā€™m not sure if you can get that trim piece alone without the sub. I have seen an aftermarket sub that fits there (JBL maybe?), but itā€™s $1000 and you need to attach the B&O amp.
This thread was just below yours on the same page.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/my-radio-upgrade-added-sub-to-9-speaker-system.163631/

As for the sub enclosure you have only a few choices. Get the JL audio stealthbox which as you stated is nearly $1K but is an excellent sub, install an OEM B&O sub but this will require an external amp, the mounting bracket, and some wiring, or you can try to find an aftermarket enclosure that is built to fit that area but youā€™ll still need wiring, amp, etc.

If you want the B&O sub I will be selling mine along with the bracket since Iā€™m doing a full custom build. But for the money youā€™d be better off finding an aftermarket solution which will give you the most flexibility. Check out this site for a custom fit box that can be sized to your choice of sub.

https://store.audiodesignscg.com/product/2015-2019-mustang-subwoofer-box/
 

Jperez228

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This thread was just below yours on the same page.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/my-radio-upgrade-added-sub-to-9-speaker-system.163631/

As for the sub enclosure you have only a few choices. Get the JL audio stealthbox which as you stated is nearly $1K but is an excellent sub, install an OEM B&O sub but this will require an external amp, the mounting bracket, and some wiring, or you can try to find an aftermarket enclosure that is built to fit that area but youā€™ll still need wiring, amp, etc.

If you want the B&O sub I will be selling mine along with the bracket since Iā€™m doing a full custom build. But for the money youā€™d be better off finding an aftermarket solution which will give you the most flexibility. Check out this site for a custom fit box that can be sized to your choice of sub.

https://store.audiodesignscg.com/product/2015-2019-mustang-subwoofer-box/
How much would you want for your B&O sub? I have the ShakerPro sub but wouldn't mind the small upgrade.
 

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demon67

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There are a few routes to take. What I did was:
- disconnect tweeters on windsheild pillars.
- replaced only the 3.5" speaker in each door (with bass blockers) with Hertz 87.3 speakers.
- Added a 10" sub with line out tapped into the rear speakers
- Disconnected centre channel (will add another Hertz 87.3 speaker there)

Simple, cost effective and sounds great! In fact, sounds quite amazing. The next step is a full gut and rewire and you're looking at many thousands.
OP - I did this with a few small exceptions...

1. I have not disconnected my tweeters. Weighing replacing or disconnecting but haven't settled.
2. Add a powered 12" Fosgate sub in the trunk also tapped from rear signal.

Used same Hertz speakers in the doors. Need to add the base blockers and some sound deadener in the doors. Sound deadened my trunk.

Difference is pretty remarkable for a few hours work and about $500 all-in.
 

DrZed

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OP - I did this with a few small exceptions...

1. I have not disconnected my tweeters. Weighing replacing or disconnecting but haven't settled.
2. Add a powered 12" Fosgate sub in the trunk also tapped from rear signal.

Used same Hertz speakers in the doors. Need to add the base blockers and some sound deadener in the doors. Sound deadened my trunk.

Difference is pretty remarkable for a few hours work and about $500 all-in.
I agree. Apparently you can also adjust the factory EQ via forscan for even better sound - have not done this yet. The 12 must pound!
 

Scat2018

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I want to replace rear speakers & do a amp sub box is stock location to start.didā€™nt ready think speaker up front donā€™t seem too bad to me
 

demon67

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I agree. Apparently you can also adjust the factory EQ via forscan for even better sound - have not done this yet. The 12 must pound!
It shakes things up. I did make the forscan EQ change as well. I think that's a given for any kind of audio mods
 

Chumley

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Pretty much all of the 3.5" replacement speakers for the doors and dash are 4ohm. Thought I read that the factory were 2 ohm. Any issues you've had with volume coming out of them? Looking at the Infinity or Hertz.
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