Adjustable Rear Toe Links issue

[Mgt2]

Hello to all Mustang fans out here.
I have been having a rear end noise issue ever since I got the Steeda adjustable rear toe links installed at their Georgia facility. Took the car back to them and they adjusted the torque because it wasn’t to spec, they said. Took the car home, a day later the noise still exists. I only hear the noise when backing up to my garage as the rear tires climb up to the garage concrete slab (1” high) elevation from the driveway. All the rear suspension installation have performed by Steeda at their Georgia facility. Adjustable links f&r, rear vertical links, lower spring (MagneRide Dual Rate), subframe alignment and support.
It is quite a ride from my location to Steeda location over 2 hrs one way. I am hoping someone in this forum might be able to help solving this issue. Thank you guys in advance.

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[WD Pro]

* Not trying to be an arse and I can’t help fix your problem *

What makes you think it’s the toe link ?

I only ask as you have a lot of other stuff under there (with a significant amount of dis and reassembly)

WD

 

[WItoTX]

My money is....hubs. OR your brake rotor is moving ever so slightly when you load them in the opposite direction. Oh the hub nut.

Try torquing the wheels right to 150. Retorque the hub nut. Clean the contact faces between the rotor and hub with steel wool and brake cleaner. Then, wheel in there, make everything with a paint pen to make sure nothing is moving.

 

[Mgt2]

* Not trying to be an arse and I can’t help fix your problem *

What makes you think it’s the toe link ?

I only ask as you have a lot of other stuff under there (with a significant amount of dis and reassembly)

WD

well, that started when the toe links were installed. Never had such noise prior.
I can check on the wheel torque, although I torqued them myself at 150.

 

[Mgt2]

My money is....hubs. OR your brake rotor is moving ever so slightly when you load them in the opposite direction. Oh the hub nut.

Try torquing the wheels right to 150. Retorque the hub nut. Clean the contact faces between the rotor and hub with steel wool and brake cleaner. Then, wheel in there, make everything with a paint pen to make sure nothing is moving.

My money is....hubs. OR your brake rotor is moving ever so slightly when you load them in the opposite direction. Oh the hub nut.

Try torquing the wheels right to 150. Retorque the hub nut. Clean the contact faces between the rotor and hub with steel wool and brake cleaner. Then, wheel in there, make everything with a paint pen to make sure nothing is moving.

I will definitely do everything you mentioned above and see what happens.
i will soon be back with the results.
Thank you so much.

 

[RAVAGE88]

What @WltoTX said, but are they the links with bushings or bearings?

MB

 

[lo-fi]

I only hear the noise when backing up to my garage as the rear tires climb up to the garage concrete slab (1” high) elevation from the driveway.

Personally I'm not worrying about this noise unless it gets worse, but since you are worried about it I'd get my cell phone down there somehow pointing to where you think the noise is coming from.

 

[Mgt2]

Personally I'm not worrying about this noise unless it gets worse, but since you are worried about it I'd get my cell phone down there somehow pointing to where you think the noise is coming from.

thanks for the reply! I am the only stick shift driver in my family, but I will give it a try to record the noise.
Thanks, again.

 

[GTP]

I know making a sound recording is not possible when the sound is outside and only when the car is moving.

What word would you use to best describe the sound?

 

[Mgt2]

I know making a sound recording is not possible when the sound is outside and only when the car is moving.

What word would you use to best describe the sound?

Sounds like something that needs to be greased. When I took it back to Steeda for this issue they were able to hear it and figured that the toe links weren’t torqued to spec. After all, the noise is the same as before. Only hear it when slowly backing to the garage.

 

[GTP]

Is it a rattle sound?

 

[Mgt2]

Is it a rattle sound?

No, it’s not a rattle sound!
After a 25 minute drive, got home and backing up to the garage I can hear it as the rear wheels go over the 1” high concrete slab, but it doesn’t happen again if I were to drive forward and immediately drive back to the garage.

 

[K4fxd]

Check your sway bar bolts. Mine has or had 2 noises from the rear. One is brake ads rattling, no holes for the anti rattle springs so I live with it. The other was a clunk that only happened when it wanted to, usually when it was most annoying. It was loose sway bar bolts. They need to be 80 or 100 ft/lbs or some other stupid tightness.

 

[RAVAGE88]

Check your sway bar bolts. Mine has or had 2 noises from the rear. One is brake ads rattling, no holes for the anti rattle springs so I live with it. The other was a clunk that only happened when it wanted to, usually when it was most annoying. It was loose sway bar bolts. They need to be 80 or 100 ft/lbs or some other stupid tightness.

Actually, you just reminded me....I had the same type of clunk the OP is describing, but only happened at low speed (or that was the only time I could hear it) and always hitting a square edge (like the lip of the garage from the driveway). I tracked it down to a loose end link at the sway bar. Completely forgot about that....

MB

 

[Mgt2]

Actually, you just reminded me....I had the same type of clunk the OP is describing, but only happened at low speed (or that was the only time I could hear it) and always hitting a square edge (like the lip of the garage from the driveway). I tracked it down to a loose end link at the sway bar. Completely forgot about that....

MB

I recently took it to Steeda, they checked the end links along with the toe links for proper torque adjustments. But I’ll check the sway bar (Steeda) torque spec.
I took a recording earlier today with the active exhaust on quiet mode. Please take a listen.

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