60 foot help

[PickleGT]

At first I felt like holding the Hitmaster trigger button in my right hand, releasing it at the exact same time that I dump the clutch and then grabbing hold of the shift lever to prepare for the 1-2 shift was a lot, but I’ve actually gotten very used to doing that now.

I feel like my real issue now is, I have yet to achieve proper weight transfer on the launch and therefore, the rear tires are skimming the track and spinning, thus killing my sixty and et.

sounds like we are chasing a similar issue my car is instantly going from 0-40/50 mph.
next time out i’m going back to 12/16 raising rpm and working on the clutch release

Sponsored

 

[NGOT8R]

I forget what your car weighs but his advise is to add a bunch of weight to a heavy ass mustang to help control the 60 but effectively lower 1/4

Yeah, he came back with the info. about adding weight in response to my answer to his question about whether there was an easier way for me to get a more favorable rear static weight bias. I had told him that adding a ballast box was the only thing I could think of to accomplish that.

 

[NGOT8R]

My brother has a new COPO and his car was built with a weight bias of 48/52. He cuts 1.3 sixties in it with ease off of a 3300 rpm launch with a 2 step, so there is obviously something to having that weight bias right. He also has a ballast box in his car, but hasn’t needed to put any weight in it yet to cut those sixties.

 

[PickleGT]

At least you’re consistent. I’d love to hit those ETs repeatedly like you do. What‘s strange is the different compression settings aren’t really changing the sixty by much at all.

I wen’t back Thursday myself and really don’t have nothing good to report. I pulled into the track in preparation for my first pass and the factory launch control activated to 3000 RPM, even though it was turned off, so I told the starter that I wasn’t going to make a pass and just drove down the track and back to the pits to try and sort out the issue.

I was able to get one pass in and it was really crappy. I stayed in 3rd through the traps. MPH seemed to have increased again after the fuel pump swap though. I left the track afterward and headed home. Viking settings were 6/11 btw.

you might had

Yeah, he came back with the info. about adding weight in response to my answer to his question about whether there was an easier way for me to get a more favorable rear static weight bias. I had told him that adding a ballast box was the only thing I could think of to accomplish that.

fudge it put 200 pounds of sand bags in the tire well and see what it does

 

[PickleGT]

My brother has a new COPO and his car was built with a weight bias of 48/52. He cuts 1.3 sixties in it with ease off of a 3300 rpm launch with a 2 step, so there is obviously something to having that weight bias right. He also has a ballast box in his car, but hasn’t needed to put any weight in it yet to cut those sixties.

you can’t compare a 1000hp purpose built race car to a 450hp street car

 

[NGOT8R]

you can’t compare a 1000hp purpose built race car to a 450hp street car

He actually has the 572ci NA version which is making about 700 rwhp, but I do get what you’re saying. I was just pointing out the importance of having a good weight bias. The only way I can see achieving that in my car would be to add ballast out back. Maybe move the battery to the rear for starters, but even then additional weight would probably still be required.

 

[NGOT8R]

Help me remember, are you running drag struts and springs out front, as well as drag springs our back with your Vikings?

I still have factory Magneride struts and springs out front and factory springs out back with my Vikings.

 

[PickleGT]

Help me remember, are you running drag struts and springs out front, as well as drag springs our back with your Vikings?

I still have factory Magneride struts and springs out front and factory springs out back with my Vikings.

steeda drag springs front and rear stock struts

 

[NGOT8R]

Here are a couple of interesting videos regarding what it takes to run 11, 10 and 9 second ET’s in a naturally aspirated Gen 2 and Gen 3 Mustang.

I wish he talked more about shock settings, as thst woukd have been extremely helpful.

 

[WildHorse]

if yer launching at 6k your prolly slipping the clutch way to much. launch at 3k, don't slip the clutch. bet you'll knock .1 to .15 off your 60. Which all translates down the 1/4 mile. You'll pick up everywhere.

 

[PickleGT]

Here are a couple of interesting videos regarding what it takes to run 11, 10 and 9 second ET’s in a naturally aspirated Gen 2 and Gen 3 Mustang.

I wish he talked more about shock settings, as thst woukd have been extremely helpful.

i think he’s out of touch with what it takes to 10s because he makes it sound like everyone should be that fast and you only need a 1.6-1.7 60 ft

 

[NGOT8R]

i think he’s out of touch with what it takes to 10s because he makes it sound like everyone should be that fast and you only need a 1.6-1.7 60 ft

He briefly mentions suspension components, but doesn't go into detail about suspension settings for these cars. That‘s what we need to hear more about.

 

[NGOT8R]

if yer launching at 6k your prolly slipping the clutch way to much. launch at 3k, don't slip the clutch. bet you'll knock .1 to .15 off your 60. Which all translates down the 1/4 mile. You'll pick up everywhere.

I’m just about willing to try anything at this point.

 

[PickleGT]

He briefly mentions suspension components, but doesn't go into detail about suspension settings for these cars. That‘s what we need to hear more about.

and he doesn’t mention DA at all, and doesn’t say anything about weight reductions like brakes or anything until trying to hit 9s

 

[PickleGT]

i trying lowering to 3500 one time last time out and it didn’t help dropped the clutch and it still spun

Sponsored