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NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
Tell me about it. I wonder if my pump was actually dying last time at the track, which could account for the low mph? New pump on the way and I’ll try it again.
NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
At least you’re consistent. I’d love to hit those ETs repeatedly like you do. What‘s strange is the different compression settings aren’t really changing the sixty by much at all.
I wen’t back Thursday myself and really don’t have nothing good to report. I pulled into the track in preparation for my first pass and the factory launch control activated to 3000 RPM, even though it was turned off, so I told the starter that I wasn’t going to make a pass and just drove down the track and back to the pits to try and sort out the issue.
I was able to get one pass in and it was really crappy. I stayed in 3rd through the traps. MPH seemed to have increased again after the fuel pump swap though. I left the track afterward and headed home. Viking settings were 6/11 btw.
I wen’t back Thursday myself and really don’t have nothing good to report. I pulled into the track in preparation for my first pass and the factory launch control activated to 3000 RPM, even though it was turned off, so I told the starter that I wasn’t going to make a pass and just drove down the track and back to the pits to try and sort out the issue.
I was able to get one pass in and it was really crappy. I stayed in 3rd through the traps. MPH seemed to have increased again after the fuel pump swap though. I left the track afterward and headed home. Viking settings were 6/11 btw.
NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
I just can’t seem to get the car to hook on the hit and it’s killing my runs altogether.
What RPM were you launching at?
I wonder if reversing C/R settings to get the rear end to separate from the body instead of squatting (like solid axle cars do) would make a difference, or if this principle even works on an IRS car?
What RPM were you launching at?
I wonder if reversing C/R settings to get the rear end to separate from the body instead of squatting (like solid axle cars do) would make a difference, or if this principle even works on an IRS car?
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PickleGT
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #126
that was 6000, i’m thinking about raising it back up to 6500 working on slipping the clutch because dumping and playing with shock settings isn’t helping
from my understanding don’t look at anything related to solid axle your just going to confuse yourself
from my understanding don’t look at anything related to solid axle your just going to confuse yourself
NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
I know one thing, I’m super frustrated with how my car is launching. I’m willing to try anything at this point, to at least get headed in a positive direction.
wazslow
Well-Known Member
I think you've really over complicated what should be a simple setup. Don't use launch control/hit master/two steps, etc. Just practice launching the car by yourself. My 2011 Coyote MT82 car went 12.1@117 with just a tune/X-pipe/18 inch Nitto drag radials on 93 octane back in 2011. That car made way less power than you should be making. I think you could go quicker if you simplify things.At least you’re consistent. I’d love to hit those ETs repeatedly like you do. What‘s strange is the different compression settings aren’t really changing the sixty by much at all.
I wen’t back Thursday myself and really don’t have nothing good to report. I pulled into the track in preparation for my first pass and the factory launch control activated to 3000 RPM, even though it was turned off, so I told the starter that I wasn’t going to make a pass and just drove down the track and back to the pits to try and sort out the issue.
I was able to get one pass in and it was really crappy. I stayed in 3rd through the traps. MPH seemed to have increased again after the fuel pump swap though. I left the track afterward and headed home. Viking settings were 6/11 btw.
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NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
I agree it can be done. I’ve personally gone 12.60’s on 1.6 sixties NA and 11.70’s on a 100 shot in my 2004 Mach 1 consistently with about 150 hp less than what I have now. Granted there was also several hundred pounds difference in weight between the two cars. That’s what makes this so frustrating for me.
You’re also right in that I have a lot going on in terms of add-ones. The reason I went with the Hitmaster was to eliminate severe drivetrain shock and parts breakage by controlling the hit. I have so much money invested in half shafts, driveshaft, clutch and tranny, that I would like to achieve success with the add-ones and hopefully help all of these expensive parts live a long life.
I would say the most difficult part about setup is not being able to test anywhere other than the track.
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NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
Yes. I sent Grant, the owner of Clutch Tamer very detailed data, including videos of launches, time slips, rear shock settings and Hitmaster settings. Below are his responses verbatim during his effort to help me with the setup:
Looks like it's spinning before any weight transfer takes place. Less rebound both front and rear should help. Is there any easy way to get a more favorable static rear weight bias?
0.50 on the shift timer sounds about right, what gears are in the rear?
Ideally the clutch needs to slip until the car is traveling fast enough to allow clutch lock-up without having pulled the engine below it's torque peak. With a street/strip car, sometimes the gearing dictates some compromise.
No lift shifting isn't a problem. Bounce the clutch pedal off the stop during the first pass or two, see what that does and adjust from there.
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Did your Bullitt want to naturally lift or squat the rear with stock shocks?
I would prefer the 8T, but in the that video it looked like it kicked the rear a bit. More static rear weight bias would help.
I would keep the shift @ 0.50 and leave the launch @ 7k.
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I know some IRS cars reduce squat by raising the rear, not sure if that's true with your car or even if you would want to change the look of the car with a mod like that.
If you do add a ballast box, add the weight as far back as possible to get the best result for the least amount of weight. I used to have a rear bumper that had 100lbs of lead added under the skin.
Note: The 8T that Grant is referring to in his responses is the number of turns on the 1st stage valve which controls whether the hit is hard or soft.
NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
At first I felt like holding the Hitmaster trigger button in my right hand, releasing it at the exact same time that I dump the clutch and then grabbing hold of the shift lever to prepare for the 1-2 shift was a lot, but I’ve actually gotten very used to doing that now.
I feel like my real issue now is, I have yet to achieve proper weight transfer on the launch and therefore, the rear tires are skimming the track and spinning, thus killing my sixty and et.
I feel like my real issue now is, I have yet to achieve proper weight transfer on the launch and therefore, the rear tires are skimming the track and spinning, thus killing my sixty and et.
