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5.0 Dyno Chart Compilation

Flyhalf

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these dyno numbers were done in June of last year and was almost 90 outside.

Stock baseline numbers were 392HP and 387TQ. On 93.

Then had JLT, ID 1050s, resonator delete and 93 Tune. It hit 433HP and 402TQ.

Same day did E85 Tune and hit 456HP and 432TQ.

Car goes back into the shop in 2 weeks to have Kooks LT Greens, MBRP race cat back, Ford performance 87mm TB and Mishimoto 160 thermostat.
Hoping to pick up another 20-25+ HP.

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What SMOOTHING? And SAE or STD (top right of the chart
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Fusion Training Systems

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STD. WhAts the difference? I’m fairly new to all of this and have much to learn. Thank you
 

Flyhalf

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STD. WhAts the difference? I’m fairly new to all of this and have much to learn. Thank you
Without going too much into details STD snd SAE are the 2 major standards for dyno measures.
SAE represents more realistic standard conditions, STD is uncorrected and some refers to it as " boosts numbers"
In our case STD reads about 25whp higher.

But key is not to focus on absolute values. But more on the DELTA between mods in order to track the car progression.
Not every dyno jet is calibrate the same.
And even a new update of their software can make a difference up to 3% in readings.
3% of 450 hp is almost 15hp.
 

Flyhalf

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leakslikasieve

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The my 2020 pp1 mt82 on the dyno at a local event on Saturday. Car has AWE Touring catback only. It put down 437/417. I'm debating going forward with headers, cai (leaning toward Steeda closed), and a tune. The same shop said i'd likely dyno 460-470 on quality 93.

What is everyone's thoughts? Did you guys really feel the power difference, and was it worth the cost?
I can't figure out why the attached dyno sheet won't show up.
 

deanm11

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The my 2020 pp1 mt82 on the dyno at a local event on Saturday. Car has AWE Touring catback only. It put down 437/417. I'm debating going forward with headers, cai (leaning toward Steeda closed), and a tune. The same shop said i'd likely dyno 460-470 on quality 93.

What is everyone's thoughts? Did you guys really feel the power difference, and was it worth the cost?
I can't figure out why the attached dyno sheet won't show up.
That seems in the ballpark but we'd need to know a little more. SAE and smoothing 5 on a Dynojet? There is pretty good evidence either cat-back or resonator delete is worth a solid 10 on these cars. Many other cars aren't like that.

What would the changes be to hit 460-470? You're not on 93 octane fuel with that run?
 

leakslikasieve

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That seems in the ballpark but we'd need to know a little more. SAE and smoothing 5 on a Dynojet? There is pretty good evidence either cat-back or resonator delete is worth a solid 10 on these cars. Many other cars aren't like that.

What would the changes be to hit 460-470? You're not on 93 octane fuel with that run?

Not sure why the dyno graph didn't attach. Let's try it again.

Dyno was set at STD with smoothing 5. 93 octane. I'd be willing to do 1 7/8" headers, a steeda closed box intake, and a tune - probably Lund. Shop said 460-470 wheel with those items. Only thing is I see plenty of dyno's with stock numbers in the 400-410, that end up making 460-470 wheel with those same items. It makes the gains less impressive starting at 437whp. Especially for roughly $3500-4000 in work.
 

leakslikasieve

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Not sure why the dyno graph didn't attach. Let's try it again.

Dyno was set at STD with smoothing 5. 93 octane. I'd be willing to do 1 7/8" headers, a steeda closed box intake, and a tune - probably Lund. Shop said 460-470 wheel with those items. Only thing is I see plenty of dyno's with stock numbers in the 400-410, that end up making 460-470 wheel with those same items. It makes the gains less impressive starting at 437whp. Especially for roughly $3500-4000 in work.

I still can't get the dyno file to attach.
 

deanm11

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I would roughly estimate +20 catted headers, 15 steeda and tune. I have the steeda closed box and a modification to make it run well without the insert.
 

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cahouston

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Not sure why the dyno graph didn't attach. Let's try it again.

Dyno was set at STD with smoothing 5. 93 octane. I'd be willing to do 1 7/8" headers, a steeda closed box intake, and a tune - probably Lund. Shop said 460-470 wheel with those items. Only thing is I see plenty of dyno's with stock numbers in the 400-410, that end up making 460-470 wheel with those same items. It makes the gains less impressive starting at 437whp. Especially for roughly $3500-4000 in work.
Many dyno graphs posted are SAE corrected. STD correction will show a higher number than SAE. Comparing your number to someone else's will have a ton of variables. The only way to know how much power a given modification may produce would be to see a before and after graph, same car, same dyno, preferably same day.
 

cahouston

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Does your Dyno sheet show a correction factor? May be 1.05 or 1.08. If 1.05, your 437 RWHP would roughly translate to 416 RWHP SAE though there are still other factors that can change the number.
 

deanm11

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Many dyno graphs posted are SAE corrected. STD correction will show a higher number than SAE. Comparing your number to someone else's will have a ton of variables. The only way to know how much power a given modification may produce would be to see a before and after graph, same car, same dyno, preferably same day.
I'll quibble with you a bit ! -- at least with Dynojets since i have 25 years experience with them, I believe I can discern a reliable result and not worry about same dyno/same day. I mean that the correction factors do what they are supposed to do. Very possibly forced induction, more than say 3% away from 1.00 correction, the correction factor may not work accurately. I used two Dynojets with my Mustangs, one is a heavier drum/higher horsepower unit. From the shop's statements and my comparison between the two, I estimate the heavier drum dyno is about -1% to the standard unit or around 5hp. There are things, of course that can make it hard to estimate the impact of a modification. I see a few hp in pulls as my car warms up and I understand this to be reduced drivetrain loss from warmer fluids... as otherwise engine heat soak is going in the other direction. Determining whether a change is worth 2-3hp, very hard to be definitive, even back-to-back runs. Finally, I won't use a dyno where I can't have the run files. You can evaluate correction factors, compare to logs you took while on the dyno, at your leisure at home.
 

cahouston

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I'll quibble with you a bit ! -- at least with Dynojets since i have 25 years experience with them, I believe I can discern a reliable result and not worry about same dyno/same day. I mean that the correction factors do what they are supposed to do. Very possibly forced induction, more than say 3% away from 1.00 correction, the correction factor may not work accurately. I used two Dynojets with my Mustangs, one is a heavier drum/higher horsepower unit. From the shop's statements and my comparison between the two, I estimate the heavier drum dyno is about -1% to the standard unit or around 5hp. There are things, of course that can make it hard to estimate the impact of a modification. I see a few hp in pulls as my car warms up and I understand this to be reduced drivetrain loss from warmer fluids... as otherwise engine heat soak is going in the other direction. Determining whether a change is worth 2-3hp, very hard to be definitive, even back-to-back runs. Finally, I won't use a dyno where I can't have the run files. You can evaluate correction factors, compare to logs you took while on the dyno, at your leisure at home.
I won't argue your points as I agree on a dynojet, the correction factors should help keep things similar to other dynojets. I'm no dynamometer expert but my understanding is how they are configured, the Dyno type/specification (mustang vs dynojet; drum weight; etc), and correction factors can play a role in output. There can also be variances in the car from one date in time to another (fuel quality, differences in maintenance level - oil type/age, air filter cleanliness, etc). I mentioned weather because I didn't see if the dynamometer type was mentioned for the run. There are a ton of variables that come into play with a Dyno so minimizing those variables has always seemed to be the best way to get a close estimation of performance differences to me.

At the end of the day, I prefer a datalogged 1/4 mile run to back up anything I see from a Dyno on my cars. :) I have a good bit more experience on a track than on a Dyno haha

Dynojet to dynojet, what comes into play when people mention a "happy" Dyno even if it's taken as SAE? I know mustang dynos have a different configuration which typically shows a lower number (heart-breaker) due being load bearing. Knowing nothing about the calibration, I've had the same car with same mods on 2 different Dyno jets with a SAE correction and received quite a different number between them on my last Mustang. One, I was getting a Dyno tune and the other was a random Dyno day event. 280rwhp vs 301rwhp. That car trapped 108/109 in the 1/4 at 3406lbs with me in it.
 

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