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2023 GT Brakes Fixed?!

ShadesOfBloo

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the rotors were fixed circa March 2021. It is interesting that the arms now have the vanes on them. I can't say when THAT started showing up...
That’s good to know.

Ford quietly changing the brake design looks a bit like they decided there was a problem.
Good on ‘em for doing something about it.
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Ford quietly changing the brake design looks a bit like they decided there was a problem.
Good on ‘em for doing something about it.
or the supplier said "hey stupid, we're not going to make retard brake rotors any more because our other customers order theirs with the hat on the correct side. So the Ford SKU is gone, too bad, not sad".

I wonder what other vehicles use the same kit as the Mustang (Explorer?) and also got theirs "fixed" at approx same time.
 
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Jstang23

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* This thread should be in the Road Course / Track section *
(There's not enough love in that section anymore anyway.)

I love that you are going to take your Mustang to the track! More people should.

Couple thoughts / input:
1. If the rotors are corrected now, just try out your brakes as-is and see how they do. Track pads are still a must though. OEM pads can't handle track abuse.

2. I don't mean to sound rude, but if your CHT never went over 210, then you were not pushing the car hard; but that's to be expected on the street. No street scenario will ever accurately mimic track conditions. I've done mountain runs too and temps don't get anywhere close to track levels.
As you build speed, cooling issues will slowly show their ugly faces. That being said, don't rush into cooling mods. Address them as they come up.

Feel free to message me if you have any questions.
I have an HPDE event with 6 20 min sessions. Wasn’t planning on changing the pads out for that, didn’t seem necessary, but if you think it’s necessary then I’ll look into it. And yes I agree mountain drives don’t compare to track days, but it’s good to see I never got above 210 because I was pushing it hard for the mountain roads. Lots of tire squealing lol. But the ambient was only 75 degrees and honestly cooler on the top of the mountain.
 
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Jstang23

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the rotors were fixed circa March 2021. It is interesting that the arms now have the vanes on them. I can't say when THAT started showing up...

But you definitely owe us some pics of the arms, of your undertray, of the inside face of the knuckle area.
I’ll try to get some this week. I don’t have a lift so I’ll have to get it up on jack stands. Might be able to weasel my phone under it. We’ll see lol!
 

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I have an HPDE event with 6 20 min sessions. Wasn’t planning on changing the pads out for that, didn’t seem necessary, but if you think it’s necessary then I’ll look into it. And yes I agree mountain drives don’t compare to track days, but it’s good to see I never got above 210 because I was pushing it hard for the mountain roads. Lots of tire squealing lol. But the ambient was only 75 degrees and honestly cooler on the top of the mountain.
I wouldn't call them necessary (for HPDEs) but they withstand the abuse significantly better and provide substantially more bite. Just put them on your shopping list for when your oem pads are done.
 
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6 20 min sessions will wipe out your stock pads, if you push the car at all.
 
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Jstang23

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I wouldn't call them necessary (for HPDEs) but they withstand the abuse significantly better and provide substantially more bite. Just put them on your shopping list for when your oem pads are done.
6 20 min sessions will wipe out your stock pads, if you push the car at all.
I'll just save myself the trouble and go ahead and get some nice track pads. Call it cheap insurance lol!
 

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I have an HPDE event with 6 20 min sessions.
It also depends on what track. That's an unusually high amount of sessions for a single day that I've only see one other org do, but if it's an easy on the brakes track it should be fine with your stock stuff.
 
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Jstang23

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It also depends on what track. That's an unusually high amount of sessions for a single day that I've only see one other org do, but if it's an easy on the brakes track it should be fine with your stock stuff.
I know its pretty amazing that they get as many sessions in. Its a low attendance event so, 3 in the morning and 3 in the afternoon. But the track is Atlanta Motorsports Park, so not super high speeds (~100-110 MAX) but lots of tight turns. Only one heavy braking area but many light to moderate braking areas.
 

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Nice. It took only 5years for them to understand it lol.
Did they change also rear rotors?

Is your car a 10speed?
 

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Jstang23

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Nice. It took only 5years for them to understand it lol.
Did they change also rear rotors?

Is your car a 10speed?
Nope, rear rotors are the same. Yes, it is a 10speed! This car is a missile!
 

Flyhalf

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Nope, rear rotors are the same. Yes, it is a 10speed! This car is a missile!
So never ever pass 225f on trans. This won't happen in street condition. (no matter how hard u drive u are not pusshing 15-20mins. )
The brake fluid is in an easy fix
The diff in the 10speed tends to overheat little less. Howver ..again.. the street are ok. Is repetition of hard driving the issue.
Oil cooler will be your next step( dont put the cooler in the top grille cause there is the trans cooler. ☺have fun!
 

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@Jstang23

I'm still not clear what spec your car is. Performance Package or not?

IMO it is best to start with the PP car, in spite of how much Ford has inflated that option. With the necessary other aftermarket options for track duty, it's nice to be about halfway there from the factory.

As others have said, only a track day with 6 20min sessions will prove to you what overheats, and by how much. Here is my experience.

Pushing the car by shifting at redline and on a clear track will take the CHT up to 250F. At that point, the ECU will limit RPM. With the A10, you think your trans is acting up, because you can't downshift. IOW the RPM is kept low, allowing the engine to cool off. You are wasting your expensive track time at that point. Check the Track Time Limited Due to High CHT thread to see the different ways we have implemented an auxiliary oil cooler. That solved my problem, including for 30min sessions.

The larger radiator with the PP seems to barely enough water cooling for me right now. I'm sure if I ran wider stickier tires, then the engine (and trans) would heat up more, and I would have to source an even larger radiator and larger trans cooler.

I double-wrapped my exhaust around the differential, and swapped to 140W gear oil. My diff runs 265F steady, without auxiliary diff cooler. This is much hotter than ~100F on the street, hence the heavy gear oil.

So far my A10 trans temp remains steady at 225F, which is also barely on the safe limit.

I have been trail-braking more than ever lately, which helps the car turn in but works the brakes hard. I run larger brake air vanes behind my OEM plastic vanes. I've sold quite a few pairs of these, and the guys have reported much lower brake rotor temps. Check my signature for a link. Make sure you remove your full-size dust shields, or replace them with the mini-size ones.

Staggered wheels is a traditional throwback. The car understeers and the front tires will wear faster than the rears. Camber plates may extend the life of the fronts, so think about adding those early. Many of us run a square setup on track for more neutral handling. This will require extended studs and open-end lugs.

Have fun and be smart on track!
 
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Jstang23

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@Jstang23

I'm still not clear what spec your car is. Performance Package or not?

IMO it is best to start with the PP car, in spite of how much Ford has inflated that option. With the necessary other aftermarket options for track duty, it's nice to be about halfway there from the factory.

As others have said, only a track day with 6 20min sessions will prove to you what overheats, and by how much. Here is my experience.

Pushing the car by shifting at redline and on a clear track will take the CHT up to 250F. At that point, the ECU will limit RPM. With the A10, you think your trans is acting up, because you can't downshift. IOW the RPM is kept low, allowing the engine to cool off. You are wasting your expensive track time at that point. Check the Track Time Limited Due to High CHT thread to see the different ways we have implemented an auxiliary oil cooler. That solved my problem, including for 30min sessions.

The larger radiator with the PP seems to barely enough water cooling for me right now. I'm sure if I ran wider stickier tires, then the engine (and trans) would heat up more, and I would have to source an even larger radiator and larger trans cooler.

I double-wrapped my exhaust around the differential, and swapped to 140W gear oil. My diff runs 265F steady, without auxiliary diff cooler. This is much hotter than ~100F on the street, hence the heavy gear oil.

So far my A10 trans temp remains steady at 225F, which is also barely on the safe limit.

I have been trail-braking more than ever lately, which helps the car turn in but works the brakes hard. I run larger brake air vanes behind my OEM plastic vanes. I've sold quite a few pairs of these, and the guys have reported much lower brake rotor temps. Check my signature for a link. Make sure you remove your full-size dust shields, or replace them with the mini-size ones.

Staggered wheels is a traditional throwback. The car understeers and the front tires will wear faster than the rears. Camber plates may extend the life of the fronts, so think about adding those early. Many of us run a square setup on track for more neutral handling. This will require extended studs and open-end lugs.

Have fun and be smart on track!
It is not the performance pack. I have the performance pack wheels and tires from my previous car that I put on it. I hear what your saying about being halfway with the performance pack from the factory, and with a warranty. Warranty is king but in this case I can't justify the 6800 bucks. I looked at steeda and on eBay and can get the same brakes, steeda handling kit, stop the hop hit, and oil coolers for less than the 6800... and still perform better. Though, I have to admit it would be nice for all of that to be warrantied.

The track day is going to be crowded as its the second event of the year so I can't imagine me having many wide open track areas. Also since this is my first track day with this car I definitely won't be pushing to to redline every gear. Trust me I'm looking into getting a square set up, the understeer is brutal coming from a lighter car LOL!
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