2020+ hpp tune question

[GreenMachine22]

Gabrial,
Jeremy Sunkel is the sales manager for PD Tuning. Give him a call at 443-528-1520. He will answer your questions and give you direction so you can acheive your performance goals.
Tom

Thanks for the contact! I'll reach out when I get a budget ready.

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[GreenMachine22]

That number is with respect to whp. The real thing you need to watch is torque. Keep that below 400-425 lbft, which will limit the stress on the block and the power to about 400 with the stock rpm redline, which is all the stock turbo is good for anyway. The base turbo really can't even support over about 5.5k revs.

Copy that. That's well within the the limit of what I'm looking for. As long as I can smooth the throttle and prevent any overheating issues, I don't really care about power. I'm really going for refinement.

 

[Dark Side]

I haven't swapped the IC/Pipes out yet. I'm planning to in the coming months though.

How do you mean it woke it up? It smoothed the throttle out? Did you go with the race or street intercooler?

Throttle response improved and she feels smoother. Haven't put her on a dyno yet. Waiting until the factory warrantee runs out to tune her.

I installed the street IC. From everything I've read (and applying a bit of common sense) the race IC needs a bigger turbo than stock, otherwise lag will be a big issue.

 

[TeeLew]

Copy that. That's well within the the limit of what I'm looking for. As long as I can smooth the throttle and prevent any overheating issues, I don't really care about power. I'm really going for refinement.

As far as I know, no one has really figured out racetrack cooling for an Ecoboost except the Phoenix SCCA team.

 

[GreenMachine22]

As far as I know, no one has really figured out racetrack cooling for an Ecoboost except the Phoenix SCCA team.

I'm not planning on racing but I do drive canyons though. This pretty much keeps the engine in boost for 30 min straight. I've already noticed the temps rising on the stock IC.

 

[GreenMachine22]

Throttle response improved and she feels smoother. Haven't put her on a dyno yet. Waiting until the factory warrantee runs out to tune her.

I installed the street IC. From everything I've read (and applying a bit of common sense) the race IC needs a bigger turbo than stock, otherwise lag will be a big issue.

That's really good to hear. Also, what you're saying about the race IC makes a lot of sense. It never really added up in my head to get an IC capable of 600+hp for a 50+/- gain in HP. I'll get the street and save a couple bucks.
So you bought the charge pipes as well then? Are the stock pipes unable to connect to the upgraded IC? Or is there a real benefit to upgrading them?

 

[shogun32]

I'll get the street and save a couple bucks.
So you bought the charge pipes as well then? Are the stock pipes unable to connect to the upgraded IC? Or is there a real benefit to upgrading them?

depends on the IC but most of the offerings work just fine with the stock plastic pipes. The stock IC is a sick joke.

I previously had a race IC but this time I'm going with a street model. The Race version shed heat very quickly - you have to have steady 30mph flowing over it to work well.

I also bought pipes the first time around. This time I'm re-using the OE plastic probably. Unless I source a set of pipes for a discount.

Those are some really fast canyon roads if you're deep into the throttle all the time. Hire a passenger to observe your boost usage and I suspect you'll find you're not using much boost (<5psi) and not very often. Unless you just floor it out of every bend and bury the brake pedal on approach. I don't drive that way - prefer to maintain a steady or modestly fluctuating pace the entire length of the run.

 

[Dark Side]

Just like Shogun said, the new IC will mount up to the stock hot and cold pipes just fine. You may have to fiddle with the clamps a bit (watch a video concerning the install) but it works just fine.

 

[GreenMachine22]

depends on the IC but most of the offerings work just fine with the stock plastic pipes. The stock IC is a sick joke.

I previously had a race IC but this time I'm going with a street model. The Race version shed heat very quickly - you have to have steady 30mph flowing over it to work well.

I also bought pipes the first time around. This time I'm re-using the OE plastic probably. Unless I source a set of pipes for a discount.

Those are some really fast canyon roads if you're deep into the throttle all the time. Hire a passenger to observe your boost usage and I suspect you'll find you're not using much boost (<5psi) and not very often. Unless you just floor it out of every bend and bury the brake pedal on approach. I don't drive that way - prefer to maintain a steady or modestly fluctuating pace the entire length of the run.

Thanks for the info on the pipes/IC. That all adds up to me.

And yeah, my canyon runs definitely vary. I like to stay in high 2nd gear and shift to 3rd for the straight. Braking into the corner and downshifting back to 2nd. I know I could stay in 3rd for most of it, but habits are hard to break (coming from a Fiesta St). I suspect you're right about the boost too, considering how much hovering over the gas I do vs actually flooring it.

 

[GreenMachine22]

Just like Shogun said, the new IC will mount up to the stock hot and cold pipes just fine. You may have to fiddle with the clamps a bit (watch a video concerning the install) but it works just fine.

Copy that. I'm definitely going to hit the books (Youtube) before attempting this. Thanks for the tips!

 

[TeeLew]

I'm not planning on racing but I do drive canyons though. This pretty much keeps the engine in boost for 30 min straight. I've already noticed the temps rising on the stock IC.

You're not even seeing the IC temp unless you're running a separate OBD display. If you're going for any period of time on the stock IC, though, then it's cooking. It's for decoration only. That's a relatively easy fix, though. For ~$400 you can get a completely reasonable street IC. The real issue is water and oil temp. They are much bigger nuts to crack.

 

[Mach VII]

I can confirm the only redeeming quality of the stock IC... it only weighs 11 lbs and all of that weight is just about as far forward on the car as can be. My CVFab street IC was 20+lbs heavier.

 

[GreenMachine22]

You're not even seeing the IC temp unless you're running a separate OBD display. If you're going for any period of time on the stock IC, though, then it's cooking. It's for decoration only. That's a relatively easy fix, though. For ~$400 you can get a completely reasonable street IC. The real issue is water and oil temp. They are much bigger nuts to crack.

Sorry, I meant that I noticed the Engine temps rising. I assumed that it was associated with the underpowered intercooler among other things.

 

[TeeLew]

Sorry, I meant that I noticed the Engine temps rising. I assumed that it was associated with the underpowered intercooler among other things.

The IC mostly influences the temps due to restricting power. The water rad is significantly undersized and it also needs a real oil cooler at the bare minimum for track duty.

 

[GreenMachine22]

The IC mostly influences the temps due to restricting power. The water rad is significantly undersized and it also needs a real oil cooler at the bare minimum for track duty.

Have you found this to still be the case even with our "upgraded" factory radiators?

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