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2019 GT feels sluggish!

malligoat

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I felt the same way in my 2016 GT with 3.55? Gears. Then I realized it's likely due to my clutch work since it's my first manual car. Best 0-60 time is 6.4s so I got more work to do.
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Garfy

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Not sure if it's been mentioned, but what fuel are you running? I noticed a big difference from 87 to 93.
Absolutely big difference! When I ran 87 my 0-60 was 6.0 seconds. Switching to 92 (that's all we have here) cut that down to 4.9 seconds. Of course, engine's not totally loose yet as it only has 2200 miles on it. I have a stock base model w/A10 and I believe my diff ratio is 3.15. The better ratios are with the PP options.
 

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Quick ish. If you double tap it like you're playing a shooter it's too fast. Maybe a half second inbetween? If it shows traction control disabled it didn't work. It'll flash a box saying sport+ is activated or something, in the same place that would show traction control disabled. You also can't have advanced traction control disabled and use sport+ simultaneously.
My owner's manual said nothing about advance trac or anything but when I tried double-tapping like people said on the board (my car doesn't have the toggle switches on the console like the higher models) the traction control off icon is on but the message says AdvanceTrac On. I'm guessing that's the best performance mode for my base model. Don't ever turn off AdvanceTrac or normal Traction control; I did that once and I sat there smoking tires with a crappy 6.2 sec 0-60 time.
 

Dfeeds

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My owner's manual said nothing about advance trac or anything but when I tried double-tapping like people said on the board (my car doesn't have the toggle switches on the console like the higher models) the traction control off icon is on but the message says AdvanceTrac On. I'm guessing that's the best performance mode for my base model. Don't ever turn off AdvanceTrac or normal Traction control; I did that once and I sat there smoking tires with a crappy 6.2 sec 0-60 time.
I turn advance trac off daily... the ps4s grip fine if they're warm.

Advance trac on means you double tapped too slow. So you turned it off then turned it back on. If you turn off traction control then try to double tap it won't work.


Base models have three different modes:

Starting with everything default (again, it won't work trying to go from one mode to another).

-Press the traction control button once and you turn off traction control. This disables traction control

-Press and hold the traction control button for 5(ish) seconds until "advane trac off" is displayed. This disables stability and traction control. I drive like this all the time because I can't stand the nannies and prefer my car to act predictably.

-Double tap the traction control button. This engages sport+ mode that has more aggressive throttle mapping and loosens up the reigns a bit on traction and stability control.
 

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Hopefully, a Hybrid/Electric/ Direct drive solution will solve the sluggish problem in the future. Or go for the “flex tune” E85 will really wake up the car - just kidding it doesn’t. #seatofthepantsdyno
I'm not familiar with your "seat of...." reference but my experience is different. My 2018 A10 PP/active exhaust/ magnetic ride GT had nice improvement at the 1/8 track. It typically ran around 8.0 stock. I loaded it with E85 (measured E70) and tried it out. I intended to use the "flex fuel" tune but mistakenly installed the E85 tune which requires E85. Ran 7.80 @ 81 mph because car went into limp mode with about 200 ft to go. Later runs with flex fuel tune it runs 7.80 @ mid 90 mph. Track prep & temp will vary the numbers of course.
 

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Quick ish. If you double tap it like you're playing a shooter it's too fast. Maybe a half second inbetween? If it shows traction control disabled it didn't work. It'll flash a box saying sport+ is activated or something, in the same place that would show traction control disabled. You also can't have advanced traction control disabled and use sport+ simultaneously.
Thank you, I have this car for two years now and never knew. I have to give it a try, maybe now I can ditch the SEC10 pedal response enhancer. Thanks again.
 

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I turn advance trac off daily... the ps4s grip fine if they're warm.

I drive like this all the time because I can't stand the nannies and prefer my car to act predictably.
I don't know how you drive your car but for max acceleration (lowest ET) there's no way you can accomplish that w/o traction control. The car may not have the power of an exotic like a Ferrari, but it certainly has more than enough power to smoke the tires off the start if you go WOT. I don't care what kind of tires you have on it (other than racing slicks) but they'll lose traction. It would be even worse if you have a PP model with lower rear end gearing (ie. higher ratios above the standard 3.15 on the base models).
 

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I don't know how you drive your car but for max acceleration (lowest ET) there's no way you can accomplish that w/o traction control. The car may not have the power of an exotic like a Ferrari, but it certainly has more than enough power to smoke the tires off the start if you go WOT. I don't care what kind of tires you have on it (other than racing slicks) but they'll lose traction. It would be even worse if you have a PP model with lower rear end gearing (ie. higher ratios above the standard 3.15 on the base models).
My comment was in response to your "never turn it off," comment. I have the pp, and the frpp power pack. I can gun it from a dig (roll into WOT but not launching like at a strip) and only experience minor tire chirp. But I also don't get on it until everything is warmed up, which takes about 15-20 minutes. If I tried getting on it right out of my neighborhood then I'd be all over the place. The back end does want to swing out around 4k rpms, depending on the road, but it's very manageable.

Fact is, traction control kills your low end torque to regain grip and protect the drivetrain from damage (look up torque truncation). You're never going to achieve your fastest launch with it on. You need sticky tires on a well prepared track with traction control turned off. I've played around with it quite a bit and even in sport+ mode, if I dump the clutch, the torque management kicks in high gear and I feel like I'm in an Accord.
 

ice445

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I don't know how you drive your car but for max acceleration (lowest ET) there's no way you can accomplish that w/o traction control. The car may not have the power of an exotic like a Ferrari, but it certainly has more than enough power to smoke the tires off the start if you go WOT. I don't care what kind of tires you have on it (other than racing slicks) but they'll lose traction. It would be even worse if you have a PP model with lower rear end gearing (ie. higher ratios above the standard 3.15 on the base models).
Traction control robs so much timing and power if you have the base chintzy 235 width tires. Turn it completely off and roll into the throttle, you spin through the lower gears but it accelerates so much better. These cars need good meats.
 

MLO 351

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Next time you need tyres you can consider changing tyre profile.

Assuming you have 255/40/19 rear tyres and 3.55 rear gears.
A change to a 30 series 275/30/19 rear tyre would be equal to having 3.76 rear gears.
255/35/19 would be equal to 3.69 rear gears.

You can compare lower profile tyres and how they impact overall final drive ratios in the calculator below.
Its an easy way to change the way your car drives next time your up for tyres.

https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/
 
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Garfy

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Traction control robs so much timing and power if you have the base chintzy 235 width tires. Turn it completely off and roll into the throttle, you spin through the lower gears but it accelerates so much better. These cars need good meats.
Yes, which is why when the tires wear out, I'll put 255 on it. I don't want to spend money for larger/wider wheels so will make do with the stock 18s, just put the widest that can fit on the wheel properly (and a different brand, the Pirellis suck).
 

Garfy

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Next time you need tyres you can consider changing tyre profile.

Assuming you have 255/40/19 rear tyres and 3.55 rear gears.
A change to a 30 series 275/30/19 rear tyre would be equal to having 3.76 rear gears.
255/35/19 would be equal to 3.69 rear gears.

You can compare lower profile tyres and how they impact overall final drive ratios in the calculator below.
Its an easy way to change the way your car drives next time your up for tyres.

https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/
That would work, but I wish there was a way we could recalibrate the speedometer. I would think since it's computer-based that there would be a function to change that, just like the way we can change the fuel economy settings in the "secret" dealer maintenance function.
 

ice445

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Yes, which is why when the tires wear out, I'll put 255 on it. I don't want to spend money for larger/wider wheels so will make do with the stock 18s, just put the widest that can fit on the wheel properly (and a different brand, the Pirellis suck).
You can try, but everyone who put 255s ended up getting new wheels because it's hardly any better
 

doph

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I guess my first question is, what exactly are you doing? Like mashing the pedal at a green? Because we know how that can turn out....

This was posted on the Mach subforum, it compares a 2021 GT to a 2021 Mach on a dyno run. The GT really doesn't have a ton of power at low RPM's (of course coming from a Miata, 'a ton' is very much a relative term)

1630712902811.png


Per this you really need to get the revs up a bit before power kicks in. If you want to replicate the Mach's curve, I'm pretty sure the biggest difference is the GT350 air intake and throttle body, which I would imagine shouldn't be all that difficult to replace/install since the GT/Mach/GT350 share so much commonality.

EDIT: Here's a link to said parts for $1k

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-pe...kit-procal-4-mustang-gt-2018-2020/p/M9603M8B/
This is the right answer (although it's the tune that makes the most difference), but get it from these guys, and have it installed by a Ford dealer or ASE/Red Seal certified technician :

https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/m-9603-m8b.html

Just remember you have to use 91 or better octane from then on.

It'll change your low-rpm life... :like:
 

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Next time you need tyres you can consider changing tyre profile.

Assuming you have 255/40/19 rear tyres and 3.55 rear gears.
A change to a 30 series 275/30/19 rear tyre would be equal to having 3.76 rear gears.
255/35/19 would be equal to 3.69 rear gears.

You can compare lower profile tyres and how they impact overall final drive ratios in the calculator below.
Its an easy way to change the way your car drives next time your up for tyres.

https://tiresize.com/gear-ratio-calculator/
Thanks for this... I was planning on picking up a set of Project 6GRs this spring, and the larger 305/35/20s would effectively make the gear ratio on my 2018 even taller, which I dont want.

This really changes things; Give me much more of an incentive to swap that out... maybe go with the 4:09
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