2018 Active Exhaust Install Guide

[jmeiers]

Thanks for your response. Has anyone found a way to get around the extra $500 for the MPVi2 to switch on the master switch? I know someone on the thread was able to have the dealership do it for them for $60. I could call my local dealer and see if they could do it but I don't know if I could tell them exactly what they need to do in detail (maybe it is simple). Is this master switch something a local auto shop could do with their equipment or would this be a Ford dealer kind of thing only? I would like to do it but I would rather not mess with my warranty for this mod and it really adds to the cost. If the dealership was able to turn on the master switch would this still void the warranty? Sorry for all the questions!

Well, most people have a tune, so you simply have your tuner turn on Active Exhaust in your tune. You can have a tuner do the same for your stock tune but you may as well just get the car tuned, even if stock because the cost is the same.

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[JMontalban]

Well, most people have a tune, so you simply have your tuner turn on Active Exhaust in your tune. You can have a tuner do the same for your stock tune but you may as well just get the car tuned, even if stock because the cost is the same.

Just read your post on the link you posted, it showed you enabled IPC 720-10-01, Im kinda familiar with forscan (not the most knowledgeable) but is that the number I look for in the IPC as built tab and change? Or is that already a line in the IPC as built and is there a enable button for it?

sorry to sound so confusing. Also I believe talking to my friend I will be Purchasing the mufflers, and any wiring harness connected from the actuators to the single plug in under the car

 

[jmeiers]

Just read your post on the link you posted, it showed you enabled IPC 720-10-01, Im kinda familiar with forscan (not the most knowledgeable) but is that the number I look for in the IPC as built tab and change? Or is that already a line in the IPC as built and is there a enable button for it?

sorry to sound so confusing. Also I believe talking to my friend I will be Purchasing the mufflers, and any wiring harness connected from the actuators to the single plug in under the car

That post was not mine but actually the original I found that made me pursue doing this to my 2019. Followed it exactly and it works as described. I just made my own notes from that.

720-10-01

*XXX

XXXX

E = Enabled

C = Disabled

Under as-Built for IPC, you will see a line similar to that. Ignore the X's, those are just placeholders for hexadecimal characters and you will not modify those. The only character you will modify is whatever character is in the same spot as the asterisk. You will change that character to an E. Again, don't worry about whatever character it originally was for your specific as-Built.

Sounds like you got everything else you need then as far as the harnesses, actuators, and active mufflers. Once you do the Forscan and the tune update, it will work instantly. I heard the exhaust flaps move to the normal position the very first time I hit the start button, before actually starting the car. It will work just like you bought it from Ford that way.

 

[JMontalban]

That post was not mine but actually the original I found that made me pursue doing this to my 2019. Followed it exactly and it works as described. I just made my own notes from that.

720-10-01

*XXX

XXXX

E = Enabled

C = Disabled

Under as-Built for IPC, you will see a line similar to that. Ignore the X's, those are just placeholders for hexadecimal characters and you will not modify those. The only character you will modify is whatever character is in the same spot as the asterisk. You will change that character to an E. Again, don't worry about whatever character it originally was for your specific as-Built.

Sounds like you got everything else you need then as far as the harnesses, actuators, and active mufflers. Once you do the Forscan and the tune update, it will work instantly. I heard the exhaust flaps move to the normal position the very first time I hit the start button, before actually starting the car. It will work just like you bought it from Ford that way.

Got it sounds good!! Thank you. Just to clarify once I go into the As-Built IPC for that just change the first letter after the number to an E. And will look like the following below :

720-10-01-EXXX-XXXX

ignoring everything else after the E

 

[jmeiers]

Got it sounds good!! Thank you. Just to clarify once I go into the As-Built IPC for that just change the first letter after the number to an E. And will look like the following below :

720-10-01-EXXX-XXXX

ignoring everything else after the E

Precisely. And also don’t be worried if that character happens to be some other number/letter you may have been expecting. Just change it to E and save it.

If you have never used Forscan before you can practice on another line, like disable seat belt chime, just to make sure you can do the change properly. I don’t want you to only do the Active Exhaust line and think this doesn’t work because you might have typoed something, etc.

 

[MNstang]

Got it sounds good!! Thank you. Just to clarify once I go into the As-Built IPC for that just change the first letter after the number to an E. And will look like the following below :

720-10-01-EXXX-XXXX

ignoring everything else after the E

Have you confirmed that you have the underhood fuse setup for the AE? Just thinking this could potentially be another issue outside of forscan...

 

[twalli]

Hey fellas! Im reading through this thread and is very interested in this! A buddy of mine is parting out his car with factory active exhaust and I will be purchasing his Mufflers, actuators, and the harnesses leading to the actuators and plug in under the car.

My car has that harness plug in with the digital dash already.

Once I plug everything in, what exactly do I have to change in forscan? Also im tuned with palm beach, do I just ask them to activate the active exhaust feature?

I still have to check for the fuse in my fuse box but hopefully it will all work. I originally ordered a car with factory active exhaust and ford says it was lost in-transit so They offered me the same car with the active exhaust and said it would cost over $6k to add it because of all the work needed.

I have the same setup as you. The wires were plug and play and getting the motors set was a little tricky but I finally got them set. I'm not 100% sure but I don't think the same line of code can changed for each car because I think it might be VIN dependent (someone can check me here). All I had to do though was change one value from a "D" to an "E" and then I had the active exhaust option on my digital dash and it's been working perfectly for months (it looks like @jmeiers gave you the right line to change)

 

[JMontalban]

Have you confirmed that you have the underhood fuse setup for the AE? Just thinking this could potentially be another issue outside of forscan...

I will be checking tomorrow, fuse slot #34 15AMP and Relay #59 right?

 

[fordsuppliergt]

I just bought a 2020 Mustang GT w/301A package - how hard is it going to be to add the OEM active exhaust system to this car?

 

[jmeiers]

I just bought a 2020 Mustang GT w/301A package - how hard is it going to be to add the OEM active exhaust system to this car?

It’s simple really.... if you have the main harness plug already back there. Go check and read thru the recent pages of this and you will find all the info needed.

 

[MNstang]

I just bought a 2020 Mustang GT w/301A package - how hard is it going to be to add the OEM active exhaust system to this car?

Some of us have the rear harness but no fuse connections under the hood. I don't think anyone has found a way around this to make it work like the factory setup. Maybe I'm wrong though. Just make sure you verify you have this fuse under the hood. I don't remember what number it is but I know I did not have it. On some cars there are no connections to add a fuse for the power. I was ready to order everything until another member suggested that I check this out (I don't have the fuse) . You really should read the entire thread before starting to buy anything (maybe you have read it). I'm attaching a picture of my fuse block under the hood. My car is a 2019 so your setup might be different. I circled the space that should have the fuse...

 

[fordsuppliergt]

Looks like I'm out of luck - no fuse or plug!

 

[Whitest Russian]

So it looks like my 2018 has both the plug and the fuse so if I go through with this I should have the easiest route. Is it even worth doing though? It seems like Ford has increased the price of the components and at this point I don't think it's worth doing unless I can find used exhaust parts on Ebay.

 

[jmeiers]

So it looks like my 2018 has both the plug and the fuse so if I go through with this I should have the easiest route. Is it even worth doing though? It seems like Ford has increased the price of the components and at this point I don't think it's worth doing unless I can find used exhaust parts on Ebay.

Precisely. When I did this back in November it cost me $385 for all the Ford parts new and then I got a sweet deal on a used Borla Stype active catback. Once you have it on, it’s worth it.

Ford parts prices swing wildly sometimes so just keep watching out and keep looking for someone ditching their complete stock active setup on the classifieds.

 

[Whitest Russian]

Precisely. When I did this back in November it cost me $385 for all the Ford parts new and then I got a sweet deal on a used Borla Stype active catback. Once you have it on, it’s worth it.

Ford parts prices swing wildly sometimes so just keep watching out and keep looking for someone ditching their complete stock active setup on the classifieds.

So did you have a working Ford active exhaust that you then swapped with a Borla one? Also do you know if I can go straight to the Borla exhaust? Or would I need some Ford parts to make the Borla one work?

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