2017 GT PP reliability/issues

[TheBMWguy]

So I bought a 2017 Magnetic GT PP brand new with 6 miles on the odo in December of 2016. Currently just rolled over 34k miles, and these are the issues I've had so far:
3k miles: Driver side wheel bearing replaced under warranty (factory installation error)
6k miles: Front brakes squealing horribly. Pads scuffed and rotors checked. Problem returned two days later. Returned for same issue around 10k; same "fix" and result. Brakes squeak like an old Buick to this day.
14k miles: Check engine light. Diagnostic found cracked intake manifold, replaced under warranty.
20k miles: Water leak developed somewhere around the passenger quarter, soaking the rear seat after heavy rain. It got so moldy I have to remove it and toss it out. Car now out of warranty, issue unresolved.
22k miles: Driver side valve cover leaking onto exhaust manifold, smoke pouring out of the hood after every cold start. Car was now out of warranty, replaced VCs with aluminum GT350 units.
30k miles: Water leak developed from front of passenger door, running down the door speaker and into the carpet. Issue unresolved.
The car is not modified aside from exhaust and wheels.
I maintain the car extremely well but drive it hard.
Does this seem like a lot to you all? I've had 20 year old BMWs that were more reliable!
On the plus side, I just paid it off last month and got my title in the mail!

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[Hack]

I have the same vehicle with just a few less miles (31,000). I have no idea if mine has had issues like yours because I've only owned it 2 1/2 years.

The brake squeal thing - how do you use the car? If you drive it gently most of the time, maybe it would be best to swap pads to a less performance oriented version? I haven't had that issue at all with my car. Another option would be to just replace the pads and rotors with new yourself so you know it's done right.

Another thought is that sometimes the rotors develop a ridge around the outside edges as they wear and that can cause squealing. What I generally do is grind the ridge off the rotors. That will take care of the squeal for many miles.

I also haven't noticed any leaks in my car. I typically drive something else when it's rainy, but I've had it through lots of car washes. But my car is also garaged most of the time, so the seals don't get exposed to a lot of harsh sun. If you park the car outside, maybe you should get new seals.

 

[offroadkarter]

I have a 16 GT PP I bought brand new, some issues I can relate to

So I bought a 2017 Magnetic GT PP brand new with 6 miles on the odo in December of 2016. Currently just rolled over 34k miles, and these are the issues I've had so far:
3k miles: Driver side wheel bearing replaced under warranty (factory installation error)

Think mine crapped out around the 10k mile mark, when the axle nut loosens up it'll destroy the wheel bearing. While my car was still under warranty when this happened, I was tired of my local dealer breaking things and not telling me on my car, so I did the job myself

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...k-those-axle-to-spindle-retaining-nuts.78909/

6k miles: Front brakes squealing horribly. Pads scuffed and rotors checked. Problem returned two days later. Returned for same issue around 10k; same "fix" and result. Brakes squeak like an old Buick to this day.

I have seen a lot of people on this site write about the squeak coming in around 20k miles, mine had as well. Recently I just re-bed my stock pads and its been fine since. If that doesn't work for you I'd suggest running an aftermarket pad, I've been looking into the Hawk HPS 5.0's, Steeda carries them.

14k miles: Check engine light. Diagnostic found cracked intake manifold, replaced under warranty.

Was this an actual literal broken manifold? I had the CMCV break on mine under warranty which required a new intake manifold

20k miles: Water leak developed somewhere around the passenger quarter, soaking the rear seat after heavy rain. It got so moldy I have to remove it and toss it out. Car now out of warranty, issue unresolved.

Can't say I've had this one happen, I'd check the "issues" section on the site

22k miles: Driver side valve cover leaking onto exhaust manifold, smoke pouring out of the hood after every cold start. Car was now out of warranty, replaced VCs with aluminum GT350 units.

A TSB actually exists for this, the factory valve covers Ford omitted 4 bolts and plugged the holes with plastic instead. The TSB calls for the dealer tech to drill out the plugs and put bolts in as it should have been.

30k miles: Water leak developed from front of passenger door, running down the door speaker and into the carpet. Issue unresolved.

Vapor barrier? If this was a BMW thats what I'd bet on

The car is not modified aside from exhaust and wheels.
I maintain the car extremely well but drive it hard.
Does this seem like a lot to you all? I've had 20 year old BMWs that were more reliable!
On the plus side, I just paid it off last month and got my title in the mail!

Well now that it's out of warranty you can fix it as it should be, which is what I've been doing.

 

[Ozcraig]

2017 Aussie version here. 30000kms without any dramas. Pony puddle lamps replaced under warranty after 5+ years, well outside our Aussie car 12month warranty. No oil leaks, no water leaks, no squeaks except the spare tyre sometimes squeaks in the well. Daily driver and not thrashed.

 

[luc]

17 pp. 32k miles
2 clutches, 7 and 13k. Finally replaced with aftermarket
1 engine at 20k
1 alternator connector at 30k
Car is s a track car only

 

[3onthetree]

17GTPP Base here. Almost 34k miles.
Yes the Brembos stock pads are noisy, even more than my '47 Buick Special
I've had a few issues, but avoided the dealer after a bad experience...
-Rear ds wheel bearing needed tightening. I checked it after reading a thread on this forum.
-water leaks. I've had a few and resolved them. The vapor barrier within both doors leaked. Instead of Water being directed to the weep holes, it leaks past the bottom of the vapor barrier to the bottom of the door card in front of the doors Weather striping and into the carpet.
Second leak was found when the windshield was replaced. Water was finding its way in at the seam where the rain channel meets the glass channel. Water runs down the A pillar to the kick panel and onto the floorboards. There are threads to diagnose and repair this.
-Oil leak. The area around one bolt on the timing cover was leaking oil. I applied thread sealer to the bolt and problem solved.
current issues: The steering wheel controls on the right side intermittently don't work or do the wrong function. eg.Volume up scrolls through fm1, 2, am etc.
The parking brake cable on the driver's side is not retracing on its own causing drag. I've checked the cable and return spring and lubed the mechanism. It will then work for a short time only.

 

[EFI]

Does this seem like a lot to you all?

Yes, I got the same car as you just a few months earlier and literally had 0 issues and I beat the piss out of it on and off track. You seem to have gotten a dud.

 

[MrMike]

I bought mine new. Many repeat visits for the A/C, but nothing else wrong. Everything else has been great.

 

[3onthetree]

The 'ol girl I mentioned earlier

 

[bnightstar]

Mine is a track car with 42800 km's on the dash.

So the list of issues is insane:

1. Wheel Hubs my rears went out a lot - took me a while to figure out that the shops were not tightening my lug nuts
2. Driver Halfshaft - because of the wheel hubs.
3. My driveshaft has a loose bearing in it - this still needs replacing.
4. Rear Swaybar bushings - this after replacing the front swaybar with Steeda
5. MT82 Oil leak from purge valve
6. MT82 Oil leak from shifter selector - not at the same time with 5
7. Clutch and TOB at 35191 km's
8. Front brake calliper bolts turned.
9. Rear callipers seals needed new callipers
10. Front Callipers brake valves were leaking needed new callipers

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

The only issue that I have had with mine in 65K is the a/c compressor failing.

 

[NightmareMoon]

No doesn't seem like all that much for a Ford. Also you shouldn't compare a Ford to a luxury brand like a BMW (and I had a 2004 BMW which had a TON of issues post-warranty as the plastics started to frag left and right, it was costing me $600 out of pocket every month)

Wheel bearing parts are better these days, but in '17 they still sucked.

Most of us have had to do more AC service than that.

Enjoy the ride and don't worry too much.

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