Front LCA Tension Link: Superpro Poly Bushings Instead of Bearings?

[MICHPP2]

After learning about Superpro's RLCA poly bushing, I've just found out they make a front lower control arm poly bushing (I believe it's for the tension link) that offers on-car adjustable caster. The part number is SPF4737K.

Does anyone think this would be a good upgrade instead of the solid bearing? I imagine it would cause less NVH than a bearing, while greatly improving performance over the factory rubber bushing.

Any thoughts?

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[TeeLew]

I have this exact piece on my car. It added no noticeable NVH. Just make sure you use the supplied grease. It definitely adds steering precision and has increased front-end crispness.

 

[shogun32]

I have this exact piece on my car. It added no noticeable NVH. Just make sure you use the supplied grease. It definitely adds steering precision and has increased front-end crispness.

where is yours set?

 

[TeeLew]

where is yours set?

in the 3 o'clock position, which widens the track and reduces caster. I haven't tested other options, but this is definitely one of the factors which allows me to run a lot of front camber.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

in the 3 o'clock position, which widens the track and reduces caster. I haven't tested other options, but this is definitely one of the factors which allows me to run a lot of front camber.

Though reduces dynamic camber via the caster reduction. You should be able to get more than enough via plates.

 

[Flchh]

I was looking at something similar from Energy Suspension, I just saw the super pro today. Looks to be same concept

 

[TeeLew]

I was looking at something similar from Energy Suspension, I just saw the super pro today. Looks to be same concept

The Energy stuff was vaporware for a long time(I'm not sure about now) & it doesn't have the eccentric.

 

[TeeLew]

Though reduces dynamic camber via the caster reduction. You should be able to get more than enough via plates.

I'm OK with the former and question the latter.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

I'm OK with the former and question the latter.

-3.5 or more achievable with Vorshlag plates. If you need more than that, probably something else to sort out.

 

[TeeLew]

-3.5 or more achievable with Vorshlag plates. If you need more than that, probably something else to sort out.

I'm using the J&M plates and don't have the strut tower holes cut, so that limits me a bit.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

I'm using the J&M plates and don't have the strut tower holes cut, so that limits me a bit.

What you waiting for?

 

[TeeLew]

I can get 3.9 deg. on both sides as it is.

 

[SlowStangGT]

@TeeLew Are you running any of Steeda's RCC mods with this? This definitely peaks my curiosity, since the lateral link with extended ball joint reduces the track width of the front wheels.

Would be interesting to measure how much more track width you can get by reducing the caster on the tension link and then adding the caster back via caster/camber plates

 

[Brian@BMVK]

@TeeLew Are you running any of Steeda's RCC mods with this? This definitely peaks my curiosity, since the lateral link with extended ball joint reduces the track width of the front wheels.

Would be interesting to measure how much more track width you can get by reducing the caster on the tension link and then adding the caster back via caster/camber plates

Could do that but you may end up with the wheel noticeably set back in the well/shortened wheelbase.

 

[SlowStangGT]

Could do that but you may end up with the wheel noticeably set back in the well/shortened wheelbase.

Yeah that's a good point, it's probably a better idea to set it neutral, an uncentered wheel would probably bother the hell out of me

In any case, the reduced track width may come in handy if it'll let me run 305s later on without too much poke

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